Another obligatory New PM-833TV and PM-1340GT Ordered!

[Christianstark]

So I got everything delivered for my VFD enclosure. Went with a fan-less sized enclosure.

Everything included is:

Disconnect
fast fuses
breaker for splitting off 110V x 2
Braking resistor
50' of 12g stranded THHN wire in red, black, green, and white
Din mounted terminal blocks for wiring.

Time to lay out the components on the backer plate.

 

[Christianstark]

Would love to get some thoughts on this initial layout. Third picture is the braking resistor, which I figured I would mount inside the enclosure on the wall. Ill probably just use heavy duty outdoor grade velcro to adhere it so I don't have to bolt it to the chassis. I COULD also mount it to the back or the plate, as it is thinner than the standoffs. I was not expecting the VFD to be as deep as it is. The DIN rail on the bottom would have plenty of real estate to add more functionality like DC low voltage to power a tach, or something like that. The breaker would be for splitting off 2 15 amp sockets. 1 from each leg of the 220V input. Everything would be behind the power disconnect switch.

 

[mksj]

VFD should be mid position between the top and bottom, needs at least 4" above for ventilation. Brake resistor on the side is fine, center on the wall. I crimp on spades to attach it to the brake terminals be mindful to attach to the correct terminals, last person that I helped got it wrong and cooked his VFD. I would mount the switch, fuse holder and breaker on one DIN rail near the top, so all the HV wiring is in the same area. DIN rail across below the for DIN terminals, power supply or whatever you want to add later. Otherwise switch can go below or the breaker, whatever works.

 

[Christianstark]

VFD should be mid position between the top and bottom, needs at least 4" above for ventilation. Brake resistor on the side is fine, center on the wall. I crimp on spades to attach it to the brake terminals be mindful to attach to the correct terminals, last person that I helped got it wrong and cooked his VFD. I would mount the switch, fuse holder and breaker on one DIN rail near the top, so all the HV wiring is in the same area. DIN rail across below the for DIN terminals, power supply or whatever you want to add later. Otherwise switch can go below or the breaker, whatever works.

OK So moving some stuff around looks like this. Din Rail for expansion can go on bottom where pen is. This more like what you were thinking? Also, the 5mm x 5mm bar for the power disconnect is on backorder. I may swap the location of the disconnect and the terminal blocks for a cleaner look. Can the disconnect function properly mechanically if the disconnect is closer to the hinge side? I just have never dealt with that before.

 

[Christianstark]

Power comes in to disconnect, and then enters the top of the terminal blocks. From the bottom of the terminal blocks, it splits off with one black and one red going into the fuse box and then the VFD. A ground will also run to the VFD completing the 220V single phase power in. Next a black going to one side of the breaker, and a red going to the other, The breaker will run 2 separate outlets for 110V. That will need a separate white/neutral for each. They will also need a ground to each This would complete the 110V power for plug in accessories like the DRO and Power Feeds. That is why I had the terminal blocks up top, so I could cut down on zigzagging wires.

 

[Christianstark]

 

[Christianstark]

Hey Mark, one more question for you since you now have me paranoid about the braking resistor...LOL

First question - Is the jumper left in place when using the external braking resistor?

Second Question - If NOT, then which one of these images is correct? The photo or the schematic below it? The RB connection looks right, but the photo is attached to + and the schematic is to +1. Again, if its still jumped its a moot point.

@mksj

 

[mksj]

The jumper stays in place, connect the brake to the RB terminal and either the +1 or + terminal.

You want the switch on the opposite side of the hinge,

Any of your designs will work, I do not use the DIN connection blocks typically for high voltage I wire everything point to point. I will use wire ferrules, but terminals will work with bare wire of the same gauge. TIghten but do not overighten to the point that the wires can break. Do the pull test to make sure they are seated. I recheck the terminals in about a week as the wire can shift or settle. First 2 picturers are other peoples enclosures, 3rd one is one of my integrated systems for the 1340GT.

 

[Christianstark]

The jumper stays in place, connect the brake to the RB terminal and either the +1 or + terminal.

You want the switch on the opposite side of the hinge,

Any of your designs will work, I do not use the DIN connection blocks typically for high voltage I wire everything point to point. I will use wire ferrules, but terminals will work with bare wire of the same gauge. TIghten but do not overighten to the point that the wires can break. Do the pull test to make sure they are seated. I recheck the terminals in about a week as the wire can shift or settle. First 2 picturers are other peoples enclosures, 3rd one is one of my integrated systems for the 1340GT.

View attachment 372696
View attachment 372697View attachment 372698

I’ll be using ferrules as well.

 

[Jake P]

First 2 picturers are other peoples enclosures, 3rd one is one of my integrated systems for the 1340GT.

View attachment 372696

The first image here was one that I sent to Mark when I was putting my enclosure together. Mark has been very helpful with guidance!

Here's a shot with more connections. I've since brought in the motor to VFD connection and the mains power. I'm still waiting for the lathe so this is as far as I am taking it for now. The lathe main board to VFD connections are all that remain.

I went with Mark's larger enclosure recommendation to avoid cooling fans. If my shop reaches 80 it's a rare day, usually 65-70, so I am not worried about overheating.

Thanks again Mark for the help!