Anotrher new PM32PDF mill

[Ray C]

Ouch, this is the first issue like this I've ever seen. With the unit unplugged, have you checked that all the screws are snug? Also, check all the twistlock connections to make sure they're tight.

Matt runs all the machines before shipping them but only does the break-in sequence which takes about 10-15 minutes (he also checks all the table dimensions and inspects the tram). I'll send him an email and ask him to contact you. Rest assured, this will get resolved.

I recall another member with a different brand mill who had a similar problem and I believe the issue was due to the centrifugal switch.

Ray

 

[johnnyc14]

Thanks guys, I decided to go a little further after your suggestions and I removed the 2 screws holding the white plastic junction block to the motor housing and had a look at the back of it. There are a few melted wires back there. I checked the screw tightness as Ray suggested and they were all very loose. I think the loose screws caused enough resistance and resulting heat to melt the wires and the plastic junction assembly. I pulled all the melted wires away from each other and tightened all the screws and the machine now starts and runs as it should. The rest of you guys that just got new PM32's should check these connections. Tomorrow I'll see if I can remove the white plastic junction block and replace it with something else.

 

[Ray C]

I'm very glad this had a quick solution but, do realize, Matt will have this fixed and send you the correct parts... No doubt about it.


Ray

 

[Ray C]

JohnnyC14...

Please contact Matt at his email and he'll get this taken care of and have parts/replacements sent Mondy... He has no email or messages from you so please call. He's not in the office today but reads emails and messages frequently...


Ray

 

[johnnyc14]

I sent Matt and email just now, thanks Ray. I made a temporary repair to the junction block and cut back the melted wire on the motor and spliced in a new section of wire. I'm up and running again until the new parts arrive..







John

- - - Updated - - -

I was concerned that the drawbar is such a loose fit inside the drive shaft ( .060"clearance ) and ran off center if not tightened very carefully. I made up a bushing on my lathe to make sure it is always centered.

 

[Ray C]

So glad you're up & running. I spoke w/Matt and he's had one other mill do that some years ago and he's had a few rare folks have similar issues when they ran long extension cords. That causes all the wiring in the chain to warm up but is not the fault of the machine. In your case though, someone forgot to tighten the wires. Things happen I guess. In the last 3 new cars I purchased, all had a little glitch ranging from an O2 sensor wire that came loose, a power window motor go bad in the 1st week and brake lights blew a fuse because someone didn't install a brake light socket properly and it grounded out. One Toyota and 2 Fords... -All were fixed quickly and all three cars have between 30 thou and 100 thousand miles now w/o a glitch... Feel badly though, this happened to your machine and I salute you for not kicking-up a big fuss.

As for the drawbar... That amount of clearance is typical and normal. Once the taper is seated, if the shaft is not perfectly straight, it has no impact on the tool. -And that extra clearance will be welcomed with open arms if a hunk of swarf ever dropped in there... I made a seating ring for mine too. Don't forget to put a few drops of oil on the spline once in a while. Also keep in mind that over time, the oil will drip down and you'll see it around the quill. That oil is not due to leaking bearings, it's the drip down from the spline -it has to go somewhere.

Each time you use the power feed, toss a few drips of oil in the oil-cup on the side of the head.


Ray

 

[johnnyc14]

Thanks Ray, I have been working in the automotive dealership service department field for 40 years now. I know "stuff happens" and no amount of the consumer stamping his feet will ever change that. Over the years I have seen just about every kind of tantrum you can imagine when a problem occurs on a newly purchased vehicle. I always loose a little repsect for the person who takes out their frustration on members of the staff of the selling dealership whether it's the sales person or service advisor. In this case the problem is relatively minor and the good news is I was able to get the machine working without much trouble.
I have been treated right by Matt and Nicole during the purchase and delivery of the machine and I'm confident that won't change when a problem occurs. Thanks for taking the time to get involved, I'm sure your efforts make a positive impression on all of Matt's customers and more importantly his potential customers. When I was shopping for a machine, the relationship between Matt and you and other members of this forum were the deciding factor on where I bought my machine. I almost bought one from the Busy Bee dealer right here in my home town but I could hardly get the sales guy there to answer a question or show any amount of interest in the machine I was trying to buy. Good customer service will always win my business.
I am a little anal about my vehicles and toys as you can tell, the drawbar clearance would not bother most people. I always enjoy finding little ways to make those kind of thing better.

Cheers

John

 

[Ray C]

Johnnyc14,

Oh, I can imagine the nonsense you've seen at the automotive dealerships. I worked as a mechanic all through college and had people actually come really close to hit and shove me because their car wasn't ready on time or because of a glitch. My philosophy is that if someone is dealing with me honestly and if issues arise during the transaction, things get resolved much faster by remaining level headed and keeping a sense of humor. In your case, I suspect Matt with either offer to send a new motor or just the terminal block.

Anyhow, Matt and I have never met but we communicate a lot and became "internet friends". I like folks with a sense of motivation and passion for what they do. -And let me tell you, his heart is in his machinery. I don't think he views it as a means of developing his business... He just loves machines and machine work! Nicole seems to be a wizard at getting orders fulfilled properly and managing all the shipment arrangements. -Not easy to do because almost every situation has special needs and requests. They are both carrying on with practices and mindsets that is just evaporating in all other commercial/retail areas...


Ray

 

[johnnyc14]

Well my first project with the new mill was to fix something that I screwed up with another new toy. I have a mild steel plate that is 8" X 8" X 3/4" that I use for target practice for my rimfire rifles. I recently bought a new Savage model 12 in .223 and took it out on a recent trip to the mountains to sight it in. I set up the target at 200 yards and was hitting the target from the first shot. The boresighting of my scope worked very well. Anyway I've shot that target with .22LR, .22 WMR and .17HMR and never put more than a little tiny divot in it. You can see the hits from the .22 LR just knocked the paint off but made no impression in the steel. After 10 shots with the .223 I walked up to check out the target and found I had badly damaged my favorite target. The .223 at 3600 FPS does a lot more damage than a .22WMR at 2000FPS. So my first job was to mill the face of the target flat again. I did 5 passes of .030" each and still did not get all the dents out but left it at that. I recently bought a piece of AR500 hard steel to use with the .223 and I won't be shooting my old rimfire target with it anymore.













John

 

[Ray C]

Good. You got the big craters out of it and won't have to worry about anything coming back at you.

So, how was it? Was it what you expected? Sometimes those surface cuts make weird noise and shaky/shimmy the machine. If that happens, make sure the jib locks are tight on the head and pull the slack out of the table locks.


Ray