Anvil

dlane

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image.jpg image.jpg image.jpg image.jpg image.jpg image.jpg Hi all , so I picked up this anvil , drills , scrapers , and a bunch of other stuff.
The top is straight on anvil but it has pits on it , I would like to smooth the top I'm thinking flap disks on grinder. What you think ?. The scrapers are biax from Germany I guess I'll need a handle
The drill press is 15 spd and goes down to 200 rpm it is stout. The drills are 1 1/4-9/16 1/2" shafts.
All of what you see and more was $180.00 , pics are acting stupid hope they made it.​
 
What county do you live in?

I need to call the sheriff to report a robbery :)

Karl
 
A great bargain! I was looking at anvils on eBay a month or so ago and they are going for around $3.00/ lb. Yours looks to be in excess of 200 lbs (actually, on a second look I see a weight stamped; it looks like either 123 or 223. Add the rest of the loot and you done good!

It looks like it is mounted on a concrete filled barrel? As I recall, proper height for an anvil is where the knuckles of your clenched fist just touch the face of the anvil.

The anvil is a Hay Budden, which is considered by some the Cadillac of anvils. Early anvils were made by forge welding wrought iron chunks to build the mass. It is not uncommon to see evidence of chain in the body of old anvils. The face of the anvil will be steel plate, forge welded to the body. It should be somewhat hardened but you should be able to clean it up with a grinder. Check for hardness. If it is not too hard, you might be able to mill the face successfully with carbide. If it is hardened. you may be able to beg or borrow some surface grinder time. Prior to facing, you may want to clean up some of the chipped edges. Hard facing rod is commonly used for that repair. Weld in short passes to prevent overheating. As I recall, the anvil should be preheated before welding but I don't remember the temperature.

I once completely removed the face on an anvil by making a carriage for my three point hitch for it with the anvil mounted face down. I attached it to my Ford 8N tractor and dragged up and down our country road. Sparks flew and after about three miles, I had ground the face completely off. I then cleaned up the wrought iron base and forge welded a new face made from a piece of semi leaf spring on. We did the welding as a local blacksmithing club demo. Later, I milled the then soft face and cut new hardy and pritchel holes. I still have that anvil in my shop.
 
...I once completely removed the face on an anvil by making a carriage for my three point hitch for it with the anvil mounted face down. I attached it to my Ford 8N tractor and dragged up and down our country road. Sparks flew and after about three miles, I had ground the face completely off. I then cleaned up the wrought iron base and forge welded a new face made from a piece of semi leaf spring on. We did the welding as a local blacksmithing club demo. Later, I milled the then soft face and cut new hardy and pritchel holes. I still have that anvil in my shop.

Now THAT is one heck of an exercise in ingenuity and a well-told story besides !
 
Nice anvil. I want to know how you get it to stand on its side without falling over.:D
 
Yes I'm happy with the purchase, the anvil has ( hay budden , Brooklyn Ny, 126 ) the face is straight but dinged up
Is it good or bad to grind it smooth ,hard weld the edge chips . I think the 126 might be the weight couldn't find a serial #
When hit with a ball peen it rings real good , a 3/4" ball bearing bounces back up to almost the same height dropped from,The base is just the rite height for me and it is way heavy
Derrick
 
Yes I'm happy with the purchase, the anvil has ( hay budden , Brooklyn Ny, 126 ) the face is straight but dinged up
Is it good or bad to grind it smooth ,hard weld the edge chips . I think the 126 might be the weight couldn't find a serial #
When hit with a ball peen it rings real good , a 3/4" ball bearing bounces back up to almost the same height dropped from,The base is just the rite height for me and it is way heavy
Derrick
I'd grind the surface (not too deeply) but leave the edges alone.
 
Serial numbers were not used on Hay Budden Anvils until 1892. Look at the base, under the horn.

You should be OK with a light grind. The face should be about 1/2" thick or more. Because of the hardening procedure, the hardness will decrease as you remove material from the face but should not be a problem.
 
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