Anyone have a PM-712G band saw?

[Beantown]

Anyone have a PM-712G? I'm looking for a decent band saw, but I wasn't sure if the PM really justified the premium? It looks pretty similar to this JET 7x12 which is also made in Taiwan. The PM has the three speed quick change gear box, but I'm not sure that would be worth $300 to me. There is also the good ole Harbor Freight 7x12 for about $700 cheaper....made in China, but looks pretty similar.

 

[55fairlane]

I do not have one, but if your a small shop or do a lot of saw work, might not be bad, coolant , quick blade speed change.....the slowest the saw runs is 125 feet per min....to fast for steel with a dry cut blade. If your not looking for a low volume production saw, this might not suit you.

 

[Beantown]

I do not have one, but if your a small shop or do a lot of saw work, might not be bad, coolant , quick blade speed change.....the slowest the saw runs is 125 feet per min....to fast for steel with a dry cut blade. If your not looking for a low volume production saw, this might not suit you.

Oh man, I'm not even a small shop. I'm just a hack in a garage. Interesting catch on the FPM. That is a bit odd it only goes down to 125. The JET goes down to 86 and the HF to 90. I will do some more research on the FPM vs materials. I think you just saved me some money. Thanks!

 

[mksj]

These are all very similar I have the Taiwanese Turn-Pro 712G, most likely the same machine with a different label. Specs seem to be the same, mine is the gear head which I prefer over switching the belt pulleys. I have no issues cutting steel/stainless dry at 125 FPM low speed setting. I ran coolant for a number of years when I was using it more frequently, now that I use it less I run it dry and use a squirt can with cutting oil. I have been cutting dry for maybe 5 years and still on the same 10-14 TPI blade. A good blade makes the difference in how it will perform/last. I cut up to 5-6" diameters. On Aluminum and softer materials I use the highest speed of 270 SFM. They are good solid saws and cuts are accurate to around 0.05" over 5". I did a number of mods to mine so I can cut shorter stock and I use low voltage switches mounted on the top of the machine which is much safer. If I had the budget I would recommend the jet swivel head (like HVBS-710G) in particular if you do a lot of miter work, if just 90 degree cuts then it is a good saw. Chinese mainland saws are usually copies, but fit/finish and accuracy typically suffer. I have had mine for around 12 years and not had any problems and it still performs very well. When you get into cutting 5-6" diameter steel the smaller band saws probably would not work too well. I found this is a good size for most of my work and it does convert to a vertical bandsaw if needed.

There was a previous thread asking the same question on the PM bandsaw.

Talk me out of the PM bandsaw

Like many before me, I've gotten by without a bandsaw but now its to the point of being a necessity. After much looking and research and knowing what you get from Precision Matthews, I think I have decided to get their band saw. It seems to me 7x12 is about the size it takes to get to a...

www.hobby-machinist.com

 

[7milesup]

I do not have one, but if your a small shop or do a lot of saw work, might not be bad, coolant , quick blade speed change.....the slowest the saw runs is 125 feet per min....to fast for steel with a dry cut blade. If your not looking for a low volume production saw, this might not suit you.

That is not true at all. Lenox recommends a 30-50% reduction in FPM if cutting dry, which is still above the 125 FPM. I cut for years without coolant on my little 4x6 Chinese saw. I addedBoelube if cutting aluminum.
I now have a rather old Enco 6.5" x 11" bandsaw, and yes, I do use coolant on that one but what a freaking mess. Yesterday, I cut a pipe into 30 small sections and decided to cut it dry because I was tired of having the sticky coolant splattering on the floor.

 

[Beantown]

I have no issues cutting steel/stainless dry at 125 FPM low speed setting.

Cool! Thank you for the confirmation. The gear head does look pretty nice.....and I am quite lazy.

That is not true at all. Lenox recommends a 30-50% reduction in FPM if cutting dry, which is still above the 125 FPM.

Excellent. I found it odd that it would be a problem.

I found this chart....it seems pretty comprehensive and there are few combinations that require less than 125 FPM. I'm guessing these would be wet speeds?

 

[55fairlane]

That is not true at all. Lenox recommends a 30-50% reduction in FPM if cutting dry, which is still above the 125 FPM. I cut for years without coolant on my little 4x6 Chinese saw. I addedBoelube if cutting aluminum.
I now have a rather old Enco 6.5" x 11" bandsaw, and yes, I do use coolant on that one but what a freaking mess. Yesterday, I cut a pipe into 30 small sections and decided to cut it dry because I was tired of having the sticky coolant splattering on the floor.

Interesting......I have found on non bi metal blades 75 to 85 feet per minute dry is max....but wet 125 to 140 feet per minute.....

 

[7milesup]

I found this chart....it seems pretty comprehensive and there are few combinations that require less than 125 FPM. I'm guessing these would be wet speeds?

Yep, those are wet speeds. Reduce them by 30-50% and you will have your numbers. Honestly, I use FPM as a guideline.

Interesting......I have found on non bi metal blades 75 to 85 feet per minute dry is max....but wet 125 to 140 feet per minute.....

Ah, non-bimetal. That is why our numbers are different. I only use bi-metal so I am not familiar with the other numbers.

 

[Ischgl99]

I have a 4x6 saw, so can't comment on the PM, but having the ability to change blade speeds easily would be a big plus to me. I'm not sure if it's worth $300 extra, but since we're spending your money, yes it is worth it lol. My 4x6 has a belt that requires moving to a different pulley, I think I did that once in the 18 years I've had the saw. If it was as easy as changing a lever, I would be more likely to do it, especially on aluminum. Now I just keep it on the mid speed for everything.

 

[Aaron_W]

I would look around your area for used saws before plunking down $1900.
I used a very similar Jet saw in my welding class. Not a bad saw at all. However I got a 50 year old Kalamazoo 6x10" for $350 that is quite similar, with easier blade changes. Mine is on the light duty end of Kalamazoos offerings, but in my opinion very much the equal of the Jet saw if not a little better despite the age.

I don't know that variable speed is all that useful in a home shop. I just leave my saws set at their low speed, I'm not in a hurry, so taking a little longer to cut is not a big deal and it won't hurt blade life.

Also agree with the idea of looking at some of the mitering bandsaw options. Along with the Jet the welding class had an Ellis mitering bandsaw which was really nice for cutting miters on long stock. At the $2000 price range you do have quite a few nice options.