Atlas 101.21400 used w/accessories, $1,500, plan to buy... thoughts?

skcncx

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So, I believe I have found the lathe for me... right size, condition and several extras, appears to be in great condition by someone who took care of it.. let me know your thoughts and any tips for my first lathe.. $1500, maybe high, but all the extras and condition seems like a reasonable deal.

Would like digital DROs and variable speed motor on newer stuff, considered a Micro Lux 7 x 16, even a Taig (they are likely just a bit too small for me to grown into) but I think this is a great option to start on and turn some nice parts. Aluminum and plastics is all I really care about, maybe steel.

Craftsman (aka Atlas) 618 Model 101.21400 (Serial 0173XX)

Comes with
3 jaw chuck, 4 jaw chuck, Faceplate, Steady Rest, Quick change tool holder, Live centers / dead centers, Indexable threading tools, Boring bars, Change gears, Indexable cutting bits, Micrometer carriage stop, 3 tail stock chucks, Manual, extra lead screws, cross feed screws, saddle screw, misc carriage parts, possibly MT2 collet holder (not sure what collet size, I'd assume ER25 or ER30).

Condition/History/Price $1500...one owner since new, used as hobby, lathe rebuilt with new roller bearings. Owner seems to really have cared for it. Pics seems to confirm great condition.... planning to take a look and pick up soon.

I know next to nothing about lathes but have read a lot to land on what I think is good for me and understanding the overall capabilities of this model.

Not sure about
- Do these have zero resettable dials?
- Is the cross feed powered? (My neighbors larger 12" version does)
- Headstock nose is 1" x 10 TPI with MT2 taper... is that common or can easily find adapters and collet holders?
- Doesn't come with milling attachment, will look for one.


Any tips, tricks, accessories I should care about, things stay away from, etc...
 

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The steady rest and micrometer stop are valuable accessories. Combined they would go for maybe $300 on eBay. The collet holder is a very nice thing to have - provided its runout is good.

I'd check for bed wear and make sure the spindle runs true. Otherwise it seems like a decent deal.

The milling accessory is of limited use and they are costly. I would save the money toward a milling machine.
 
The steady rest and micrometer stop are valuable accessories. Combined they would go for maybe $300 on eBay. The collet holder is a very nice thing to have - provided its runout is good.

I'd check for bed wear and make sure the spindle runs true. Otherwise it seems like a decent deal.

The milling accessory is of limited use and they are costly. I would save the money toward a milling machine.
Thanks for the input! Excited to pick this up and start the learning process. There's a lot I don't know.

The seller said the same thing about the milling attachment. I'm hoping the collet adapter is an ER32... if not, I know I can even get an ER40 spin on collet adapter to fit the 1" 10 TPI.

What is largest diameter and length that is is reasonable for the 618 model? For aluminum (6061 or 6063 series aluminum).

I understand you are generally about half of the capacity limits. I'm not entirely sure what the throw is above the carriage. I'll likely want to do 1/2" to 1" diameter stuff the most, 2" - 10" lengths.
 
Hi skcncx , high yes but it's clean and ready to go . The dials have a resettable set screw (cross feed and compound) , longitude no . I have a very old 101.07301 the dials on it are very hard to read , I think the machine you are looking at is better for reading . I like to hook up an travel indicator .
Cross feed power , no .
Head stock spindle 1"-10 is good , mine is 1"-8 and that limits you somewhat .
JPMacG is right the milling attachment is limited and to buy one outright probably 250-300 . However they are useful and I love mine , if you are limited on space they are especially nice .
Good luck on getting that machine and keep us posted .
Mark .
 
Hi skcncx , high yes but it's clean and ready to go . The dials have a resettable set screw (cross feed and compound) , longitude no . I have a very old 101.07301 the dials on it are very hard to read , I think the machine you are looking at is better for reading . I like to hook up an travel indicator .
Cross feed power , no .
Head stock spindle 1"-10 is good , mine is 1"-8 and that limits you somewhat .
JPMacG is right the milling attachment is limited and to buy one outright probably 250-300 . However they are useful and I love mine , if you are limited on space they are especially nice .
Good luck on getting that machine and keep us posted .
Mark .
Thanks! The seller of this seems like the person you want to buy used stuff from... so I feel good about his price but I really know nothing either... he plans to throw in a magnetic base with 2" throw dial and a 1" indicator for the saddle travel so that's my solution to start.... I'll care about those high precision parts once I get comfortable just turning some metal and getting the feel of it.
 
You are welcome , I forgot to mention the things that make your machine even more worth the 1,500 . is all the lead screws . Those are probably the old ones so that means you have newer ones .
As for the limitations of the size stock you can fit on the lathe , first the through hole is 17/32 . That does not limit you to chuck up larger diameters and longer lengths , you have the steady rest . Speeds and feeds differ from different machines but there is a formula , rule of thumb larger diameters require slower speed and feed . You will get the feel , I would start off with Aluminum / Delrin.
Mark .
 
You are welcome , I forgot to mention the things that make your machine even more worth the 1,500 . is all the lead screws . Those are probably the old ones so that means you have newer ones .
As for the limitations of the size stock you can fit on the lathe , first the through hole is 17/32 . That does not limit you to chuck up larger diameters and longer lengths , you have the steady rest . Speeds and feeds differ from different machines but there is a formula , rule of thumb larger diameters require slower speed and feed . You will get the feel , I would start off with Aluminum / Delrin.
Mark .

I figure, all that stuff adds up and I like having the extra parts and accessories available from the get go if needed, especially for older stuff... if anything, it tells me a little bit about the previous owner... well cared for.

I did read about the 17/32 through hole... that's one thing I liked about the Taig 5C head stock, a large through hole... but everything else was seemingly too small and didn't really look at that specs on the seig based 7 x 16 lathes. But for some reason I'm just as comfortable jumping in the game with the much older atlas 618 type. Not sure even how much the through hole is critical for my various projects, some of which are yet to be determined. I want a big and full featured lathe in a small table top package... trade offs everywhere.

The listing I'm buying seems to be a great starter package with all the tooling and cutters and basics... even it it doesn't have all the digital stuff and variable speed drives which was clearly not needed for many years... I'll get by. Just learning to feel, see and year the cutting there's lots gain experience on and build up my skills.

A lot of my decision and research is all speculation... just have to get something and try it to really know what all I'll make and if it's all I'll ever need or sell and upgrade.
 
I had one similar to this for 5-6 years. It was a good lathe, did bigger work than its size would suggest, but I was very glad to trade up to a South Bend heavy 9. I was getting frustrated with my 618, even after doing ALOT of mods to it (poly-V spindle pulley, variable speed DC motor, digital readouts). It was pretty cramped, tail stock travel and reach was pretty miserable leading to lots of time consuming contortions to use a center to turn stuff, anything over 3/4" diameter took a long time to work with. The through spindle hole was pretty limiting too, had to either saw stock short or use the steady rest all the time. Don't get me wrong, I did alot of good work on that lathe and for small stuff (1/2" or less) it was a dream, but I'm glad I have the SB every time I use it.

Personally I think the price is pretty high. I sold mine for $1k with way more tooling than that but no milling attachment. I'd rather spend $1.5k on a crusty SB9a any day of the week than a sparkly mint 618.
 
Welcome to the forum. Don't be afraid to ask any question no matter how trivial you may think it is. We are a very friendly bunch. There are a lot of really knowledgeable people on this site that will bend over backwards to help you out. You should consider making a donation so you can access the downloads section. Cost is nominal and it will be money well spent.

The big plus with that lathe is that it has had only one owner and was used as a hobby lathe. Not in a production shop. So that lathe should be in excellent condition with little wear. The tooling that is included is all of the important stuff. You won't have to buy anything other than consumables to start using that lathe. I would not be concerned about the small thru hole. The bed looks long enough to turn longer stuff between centers. Or supported in the steady rest.

You are going to have to learn how to grind HSS tool bits. Mikeys thread in the beginner forum on grinding tool bits is a must read. Get yourself a belt sander and you will be good to go on grinding tool bits.

As for learning how to machine IMHO there is none better than Mr. Pete aka Tubalcain. He is a retired high school shop teacher and knows how to teach. https://www.youtube.com/c/mrpete222/videos You will not regret spending time watching his videos. Once you have gotten your feet wet there are other good videos that will help with finer points and tips on how to do some stuff. Learn the basics from Mr. Pete first.

Have fun with your new lathe.
 
One question that you asked earlier that I don't believe was ever answered was what is the rated swing over carriage. According to all of the Atlas and Craftsman catalogs, that figure is 3-1/2".

Otherwise, I generally agree with the various comments. Except for the one about having to learn how to grind HSS turning tools. You probably should, as it is generally the less expensive way to go. But you can also do as I got into the habit of doing starting back in 1981 and mostly use carbide tooling. It just costs more. :cool: And the 618 (or Craftsman equivalent) isn't really large or heavy enough to take advantage of some of the benefits of carbide.
 
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