Atlas/Craftsman Serial Numbers and Bearing Dates (if applicable) For Database Entries

Ouch! Somebody used those ways for an anvil
The sliding gear is in the right place- the blocking plate prevents interference if the following gear is not a compound gear and no spacer
is used with it (I think)
Looks like a custom knob was fitted for rapid changes
Mark
 
markba633csi said:
Ouch! Somebody used those ways for an anvil
The sliding gear is in the right place- the blocking plate prevents interference if the following gear is not a compound gear and no spacer
is used with it (I think)
Looks like a custom knob was fitted for rapid changes
Mark
Click to expand...

The story that I was told is that it was originally owned by the Canadian Department of Defence.
Then sold to a guy in Toronto who did work with it for the Toronto Symphony, I think he worked on
flutes. I did find a fair bit of saw dust in the lathe when I cleaned it up.
Then it was sold to the person that I bought it off, he was an engineer.
I have no way of knowing if that is the truth, but it sounded good at the time it was told to me.
Anyway, it obviously has seen some ruff use. I will get it running and see
what if any further work it will need.
But now I have the ability to cut threads and control feed rates.
That issue was a real pain for me. As I said, I knew something was wrong
but it looked like it should have worked. It was that photo that made all the difference.
Again Thanks
 
James Bartlett said:
The story that I was told is that it was originally owned by the Canadian Department of Defence.
Then sold to a guy in Toronto who did work with it for the Toronto Symphony, I think he worked on
flutes. I did find a fair bit of saw dust in the lathe when I cleaned it up.
Then it was sold to the person that I bought it off, he was an engineer.
I have no way of knowing if that is the truth, but it sounded good at the time it was told to me.
Anyway, it obviously has seen some ruff use. I will get it running and see
what if any further work it will need.
But now I have the ability to cut threads and control feed rates.
That issue was a real pain for me. As I said, I knew something was wrong
but it looked like it should have worked. It was that photo that made all the difference.
Again Thanks
Click to expand...

I'll keep it short as I know they want this topic in regular threads. The tumbler gear with the "blocking plate" is for the "Standard Gear Setup", before the Pick-O-Matic (POM) was installed on your machine. You won't need it anymore. The "custom knob" came with the POM upgrade. I left mine off so you could see clearly. Also, POM drives were first displayed/sold in the December 1943 Catalog L43. They were last seen displayed in the January 1946 Bulletin 10L-1A. The QC came out in 1947. This gave the POM drive a run of about 3 years. shadetreedad
 
James,

The two letters stamped before your serial number are "TH", not "TI". And don't discard the extra 16T/32T compound gear that you have. It appears to be a 10-1546 and should be usable on any QCGB equipped lathe made up through 1981. And on any 10F or equivalent 12", although the disk between the two gears wouldn't be needed.
 
markba633csi said:
Just joined the Atlas/Craftsman 12x36 club: 101.28940 serial# 004353 (earlier version of the late style 12") Mark
Click to expand...

Mark,

I was still having computer problems when your post showed up and I put off handling it, and almost forgot to go back and pick it up. Which I just did. Thanks.

If you pull the spindle to replace the spindle belt, there is no need to report no dates on the bearings, as that practice unfortunately stopped in the early 50's.
 
Hi Robert- yep I'm not expecting to find any numbers on the bearings. I'll be happy to not find any damage :)
I was wondering however, would you recommend 3/4" x 16 allthread to R&R the spindle, and would a 24" length be sufficient?
I realize I will need coupling nuts and some suitable pipe or thick tube spacers, plus wood wedges to protect the bull gear
Mark
 
Mark,

OK. Yes, 3/4" allthread should work OK and 2 feet should be plenty. You will also need some large preferably shoulder washers for the ends of the receiver tubes. And if you do decide that you need to replace the bearing cups (hopefully not) one just small enough to slip through the holes that the cups are pressed into. And to pull them back into the holes.
 
wa5cab said:
I hadn't previously noticed it probably because looking back I see that almost all age related questions the past year have been for 12". In the combined machine database (408 entries to date) there are only 74 10" entries, a third of which show no serial numbers. And there is a large jump or blank range in the 10" serial numbers. They meander up to a little over 8000 and then skip to over 17000. Plus we only have three supposed bearing dates, one of which does not track with the other two. Meaning that it is about 13000 smaller than one with almost the same date.

Anyway, anyone with a 10" who doesn't remember for sure entering your machine into the old Yahoo database or giving it to me recently, please send me the model number (which includes bed length), serial number (including any prefix or suffix letters), type (10F, 10D, etc.), and if it has Timken bearings, the bearing dates if you know them. If no bearing dates, then anything that would give the original purchase date (no guesses, please).

Thanks, Robert D.
Click to expand...
I have a QC42
The serial # is 088343 I believe it has bearings as the head stock is one piece. Year of make unknown.

IMG-2935.JPG

IMG-2938.JPG

IMG-2974.JPG
 
Just Joined. I have an Atlas-Craftsman 101.07403 Ser 12L 037285. Do you know what Atlas QC will fit or any other info on the lathe?
Thanks,
Paul
 
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