Atlas horizontal Mill

[Uncle Buck]

O started out with an Atlas mill. I recommend that you definitely rig up some kind of support for the outboard end of the arbor. The originals had one. It secured around the shaft of the "Y" handle feed,and connected to the overhead arm. It has to be height adjustable. This would greatly help the jumping and grabbing that happens with these small mills.

The earliest versions of the milling machine were not equipped with the outboard support arm. That modification came from Atlas some years after the original machines were made. Another early model piece is the cast cover that installs over the overhead arm as a cover. That casting went away I think once the outboard support arm spoken of entered the picture.

Many of these machines, mine included are often bought with no vise. Aside from astronomically priced originals there are few high quality alternatives out there to be found. I bought a Palmgren Lowboy, low profile swivel base vise USA made for mine for about $200 or a bit more but really it is a bit large for this machine at 4&1/2 inches. Palmgren used to offer a 3&1/2" version that would have been a much better fit to the machine but unfortunately this model was discontinued a few years ago. If you are looking to replicate what was there originally then you will look for a swivel degree indexed base that is low in height which is very important due to the working limits of the machine. Good luck

 

[prmindartmouth]

When I owned an Atlas mill, I made an overarm support. I prettied it up with some engine turning. I also converted the dials to larger ones off a Busy Bee mill/drill. I think I followed a Rudy Khouhpt (sp?) article from Home Shop Machinist for the dials, except he made his. I eventually sold the mill and shipped it to Saskatoon! I wish I still had it, but no room in my garage anymore. ) Here is a picture:

 

[Uncle Buck]

Do you think the jumping and grabbing is the arbor moving or the table moving up and down on the screw? There really are a couple of causes for the movement but at the moment I find if I use the travel locks in the two directions not needed to cut, the vibration is greatly reduced.

If you remove the table from the knee you will find a brass nut that controls the side to side adjustment of the table. I almost guarantee you that is worn and needs replaced. Clearly the nut was planned to wear and be replaced saving the wear of the more expensive parts. That is one place you will no doubt find at least some, if not all of that play. The thread is an ACME as I recall. Good Luck!

 

[Uncle Buck]

When I owned an Atlas mill, I made an overarm support. I prettied it up with some engine turning. I also converted the dials to larger ones off a Busy Bee mill/drill. I think I followed a Rudy Khouhpt (sp?) article from Home Shop Machinist for the dials, except he made his. I eventually sold the mill and shipped it to Saskatoon! I wish I still had it, but no room in my garage anymore. ) Here is a picture:
View attachment 46996

Wonderful upgrades and enhancements. Did you find the height of that vise limited your range of use with the machine? I don't know how you brought yourself to sell that!

 

[prmindartmouth]

As it happens, I did not use it enough to find that vise a problem (not being used after all, so it had to go, no room in my shop.......my enjoyment was in the refurbishment anyway). I do recall clamping one job directly to the table. The present owner has all Atlas equipment in his shop, so it is in a good place!!.

 

[wa5cab]

It just occurred to me that the vise jaws off of an Atlas or Craftsman Universal Compound Vise might be quite useful on an Atlas mill. They attach directly to T-slots.

Robert D

 

[HalcyonDaze]

Sourcing Cutters

Do you guys buy them off Ebay, and if so what does one need to watch for. Example: There's clearance to run a 4" dia cutter, but will the mill handle it? How about the width of a slab cutter? And from what can be seen in the pictures, all keyways are not the same. Are there other sources for cutters that you guys use?

I'm just about done with a restore of one of two that I've got and am ready to start collecting tooling. Any help appreciated!

 

[Uncle Buck]

Sourcing Cutters

Do you guys buy them off Ebay, and if so what does one need to watch for. Example: There's clearance to run a 4" dia cutter, but will the mill handle it? How about the width of a slab cutter? And from what can be seen in the pictures, all keyways are not the same. Are there other sources for cutters that you guys use?

I'm just about done with a restore of one of two that I've got and am ready to start collecting tooling. Any help appreciated!

You need to post some pictures of your recently restored machine!

 

[cbtrek]

I have been there done that too. Here is my Atlas that I restored a few years ago. I still have a few small tweaks to make here and there, but overall I am quite pleased. The vertical attachment takes #2 Morse taper collets. I do enjoy the machine quite a bit and have never regretted buying it. I also have all the horizontal stuff to use it configured that way as well. I really admire that other vertical conversion a few posts back, much more clever than mine. That one has so much more clearance to actually get some work done. I might have to make some modifications to mine based on that!

Very nice conversion. I just pick up a Lewis horizontal mill and in the process of restoring it with building a vertical head next.

 

[george wilson]

I thought mine was the knee flexing enough to allow the table to jerk back and forth. My machine would mill brass pretty well,but was a pain to mill steel with. I got a Burke #4 which was a real machine,rigid enough to mill steel easily. Sold the Atlas to a clock maker who used brass. He was happy with it.

I know my table lead screw nut was not worn,nor was the acme thread lead screw,because I made both of those items and installed them in the mill.