Atlas QC54 Help with broken split nut scroll 10D-38

RandyMcNally

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I just posted more info on the lathe here: https://www.hobby-machinist.com/thr...s-and-bearing-dates.25328/page-16#post-739291

Excerpt from that post:
My first machine. Just purchased a month ago. In pretty good shape, but I’m giving it a medium-thoroughness disassembly & cleaning as it was packed & caked with grease and dirt.
I’m a slow, thorough, OCD type - and still yet I’ve gone and broken the split nut scroll last night. Need some help & information. Any assistance would be greatly appreciated. I can’t tell you how many threads I’ve read on here already, just in disassembling and cleaning thus far. You guys are a real gem with your knowledge, your emphasis on archiving that knowledge, and your willingness to help us out. Thank you very much!

I'll post pics below of the broken half nut scroll, part number 10D-38
If you zoom in on the 1st pic you can see the cracks on the right slot.

QUESTIONS on what to do now, in order of increasing complexity:

1. Do you know where I can find one? I can't find anything online other than expired eBay auctions, and "not currently available" on Amazon, Sears, etc.

2. Clausing, I hope! I called this morning and a real human transferred me to parts but I eventually got a voicemail. Called again this afternoon & straight to voicemail.

3. This scroll is ZAMAK, correct? Can I fix it "properly"? Being a cheap alloy, I'm doubting there's a reliable way to solder, weld, or braze it. But then again I know nothing so thought I'd ask. There's a meticulous Hot Wheels restorer on YouTube, channel name BaremetalHW, who has a couple videos on soldering ZAMAK Hot Wheels. He describes it as a delicate skill that took him over a year to acquire and is still hit or miss at times. I think the prospect of fixing it by adding metal is narrowed by #5 below.

4. Can I fix it "improperly"? JB-Weld or similar?

5. Can I do nothing? So I was sizing up the damage tonight & evaluating my options. I think I was considering doing something around the circumference of the scroll to reinforce it, e.g. wrap it in a few layers of thin shim or sheet stock - or maybe some strong metallic tape, idk. The damage is such that any forces squeezing in towards the center would be fine. As opposed to: if I put my fingers in the slots and pulled away from the center (or, say, as pure hypothetical, if I put a slotted screwdriver in one of the slots - even wrapped in 3-4 layers of Scott's shop towels -- like an idiot!) the broken piece would pop right out. But then I looked at the recess into which the scroll assembles - the "bracket" that holds the half nuts (on the far left in 2nd pic below) - and I realized that is a very tight fit. Well, if the broken piece has nowhere to go once assembled, might it just be okay? This seems doubtful but I'm getting desperate here so thought I'd ask your opinion.

Thank you for any thoughts! Apologies for the long post.


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Thank you. I looked on www.mymachineshop.net and did not find the part.
That is still a good resource, though. I just identified the "#945 CUTTER HOLDER SET" that came with my lathe! And found a "5C COLLET CHUCK 1 1/2-8 MOUNT" that I will lust after for a while.

Thanks for the responses. I will still give Joel a call.
 
I think that the consensus here would be that a cracked or broken Zamak part should be replaced. My personal opinion is that it must be replaced. Keep trying Clausing and Joel. The latter guy probably has some of them because he has parted out a lot of machines. But it isn't listed on his site because no one ever needs one. Yours if the first one that I have ever heard of that broke.

You didn't show a photo of the other end. Is the lever retained by an oval head screw or by peening like the gears on the carriage traverse gear box?
 
Yours if the first one that I have ever heard of that broke.
In fairness to the scroll, it was definitely my fault.

Is the lever retained by an oval head screw or by peening like the gears on the carriage traverse gear box?
Half nut lever is retained by a screw. But still stuck on pretty good without the screw. I jammed a paper shop towel-wrapped screwdriver into that yin yang slot to stop its rotation so I could try twist the lever. In hindsight I should have twist the lever off before removing the half nut housing. I’m guessing the strength of this part’s thin-walled weak alloy is not a factor when the housing is tightly encompassing it.

Also in hindsight: I should remove “jamming” from my allowable lathe actions. :)

Thank you, sir, for the info.

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Don't feel too bad, while trying to part on my newly renovated 6" Craftsman I broke the compound casting:frown:
I guess these things weren't meant for rough handling like the big boy lathes....

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John
 
On the other hand it is a blessing to be working with something so common there are still parts around.

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Back in business:

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John
 
Yikes. Thanks for the perspective, John. Glad you got it going. Good looking machine.

What kind of bench top are you bolted to there?

The wooden table that came with mine is quite wobbly. I’ll probably fill in all the gaps with 4x4’s and structural screws for now. But this also makes me interested in others’ solutions for lathe benches/tables/stands.
 
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