B&S indicator problems

Mill Lee farm

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H-M Supporter Gold Member
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Mar 31, 2015
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So I made a batch ebay purchase which included a pair of older but decent looking Brown & Sharpe 7026 test indicators .0001”
They sweetened the deal so I jumped on it.

They would be my finest resolution indicators…. If they moved…

The points seem locked. The one won’t move (afraid to use too much force) and the other seems to slip on the arm so you can reposition the point but neither of the mechanism or dials move.

What am I missing here? Did I just buy 2 identical broken indicators? (My thought) or is there secret tribal knowledge I’m missing?

If so, someone stop me before my last ditch effort at dunking them in solvent (suggestions? I’m worried about the face paint…)

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Don't be afraid to (carefully) open them, and find out what has given them a problem.
There are lots of videos on YouTube showing exactly what you can do.

I have taken apart and fixed a John Bull 1/10ths indicator, and I have another to yet to do, plus a few others that sort of work, but could do with a cleanup inside. It's true that one has to get used to some of the basic ways of handling these tiny machines, but you don't have to be anything near watchmaker ability to get it right. For me, it was a problem beyond the usual sticking dial caused by dried out or incorrect oils, but even if it is seized up, or has a broken return spring, one can get to it.

I did have to get a small bottle of horology-type oil from eBay.

Start with Quinn Dunki (Blondihacks) --> Repairing Dial Indicators - Diagnosing, Fixing, and How They Work!

There are others --> Repairing a sticky dial indicator - Lazy Watchsmith
and --> DM Engineering - Dial Indicator Repair - Mitutoyo
and --> How I Fixed My Damaged Shars Dial Indicator
and --> Repairing A Dial Test Indicator - Machining with Joe

There are more you will see in the links.

[Edit: When it comes to cleaning solvents, avoid acetone anywhere near the dial, or plastic parts. IsoPropyl alcohol is generally pretty safe. Methylated spirits which is a mix of IPA, ethanol, and up to 4% methanol, plus some water with deliberate stinky stuff, also seems not to harm anything, but smells yuk.]
 
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Thanks guys! especially for all the great links. I'm sure I could have found them after searching but it's definitely lazier easier when others spoon feed you the links!

The big thing is some reassurance that the problem isn't operator stupidity/missing the secret hidden locking mechanism! (which was definitely a posibility!)

I'll learn myself with some youtube and dive in. I don't think these are particually high end B&S as they don't say 'Swiss made' and some google-fu failed to reveal anything about model 7026.
Don't think there's much at stake here....
 
By the look of the slots in the screws , your not the first to venture in.
 
@Doug Gray - I was thinking the same thing...
We'll see what horror show awaits on the inside!?!

So... is it bad that I'm kind of looking forward to digging into this?
 
It's a great thing .. dig and share!
 
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