Banggood MT5-ER40

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ddickey

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I have actually got some decent enough tools from them. Some not so good but after some fusing about they have always made it good.
I have an MT3-ER40 I got some time ago that has .002" run-out. Thought I'd check around and see if a more accurate one was around. Banggood advertises .00015mm so I thought I'd give it a try, plus it was MT5 which would eliminate the MT5-MT3 adapter.
That's .0025" run-out.
Contacted them and they offered $12 and said manual measurement introduces some error. LOL
We'll see how this ends up but I'm pretty much done with them.
EDIT: I also bought an R8-MT2 for a bunch of drills I have. .007" TIR.
 
I have found the same with Bangood and all the Chinese products, it's always a roll of the dice if you get decent quality.
Just today, I received an ER11 set I got as a promo last April.
A Chuck with a whole set of collets.
I can't imagine when I would ever use these.
Small little devils, I bet there is a bit of runout??
 
Hi Janderso,

If you ever decide to make a drill sharpener they would be useful. Or a high speed drill !
 
ddickey:

When I built my tool post grinder, I spent a lot of time on the spindle, trying to minimize runout. It worked out pretty well.

Then I bought an ER16 collet chuck and set of collets from Banggood to hold the mounted points for internal grinding on the TPG.

Well, my runout findings are consistent with yours. The best I can do with the collet system is 0.003". I tried changing out the chuck and the chuck nut, but found the runout is in the collets themselves. I spent time de-burring the collets -- to no avail. And I bet the runout is even worse on Janderoso's ER11's.

I remain a big fan of Banggood's lathe cutting tools, but now when it comes to anything that rotates - I'm leery, although I have had good luck with their indexable end and shell mills.
 
Hi Guys,

I've bought a number of collet holders and collet sets from Banggood and discovered some collets have issues with runout.
If you examine the collet very carefully you might find that the problem ones, have tiny bits of swarf in between the saw cuts.
I spent some time making sure that they were clean. Some of the bits of swarf were only revealed when I put a piece of paper in the slit and held the collet closed with my fingers, then pulled the paper out. I found that if the paper tore, then there was a burr or squashed bit of metal in there.
It is very difficult to get at burrs that are on the inside.

I rather get the impression that these collets are tumbled to deburr them but the tumbler doesn't get cleaned as often as it should.
 
Had some thoughts to share that might have some bearing on your results.
  • Checking for concentricity under power is fraught with uncertainty. It takes specialized equipment to do dynamic concentricity checks. Static concentricity checks do provide useful information, though, provided you do them properly.
  • You are attributing the 0.0025" run out to the chuck and it may very well be that far out. However, you have multiple interfaces, any of which can be responsible for your results at the chuck. So, what is the run out of the spindle? What is the concentricity of the spindle taper? What happens to the concentricity of a device when you lock down the drawbar? Were you meticulous when cleaning the spindle taper and the MT5 adapter before running your tests? Not trying to be a dick but this is one of them there cases of stacking tolerances and you have to eliminate as many variables as possible before attributing fault to one device.
  • It is not a good idea to run the contact of a really good dial test indicator under power. Your call, of course, but it will eventually wear the contact point. Interapid indicators have pretty good bearings holding the contact point so you're probably okay there, for awhile anyway.
  • Noga-style indicator holders are great. I really like them and use them but I found that they are not the best thing to use for concentricity checks. I checked my ER-40 chuck concentricity with one and then repeated it with one of the old style two-post types and the latter is more solid. I didn't use that old thing for a long time but I now use it exclusively for checking concentricity. A surface gauge will also work if you have one that you can clamp to the cross slide or one with a mag base.
I'm all for returning a chuck that doesn't meet specs but it is always a good idea to be able to cite your concentricity findings to the seller so he knows that your lathe is not at fault; it is his chuck. He then has no ground to stand on and a refund should be freely issued.
 
Good thoughts Mikey. I didn't know about not using an indicator under power. It was a short time at the slowest speed. I won't do that anymore.
TIR of my spindle is .00015".
Cocentricity of the taper I would have no idea.
I always clean the taper very well. At least I think it is well.
Interesting about the Noga
 
Just thought I would give you a simple procedure for checking concentricity with reasonable reliability.
  • Clean everything - the thing to be checked, any tapered thing, the indicator base and indicator tip. No oil anywhere.
  • Always check the foundation. If you're checking something that fits in the spindle then you have to check the concentricity of the spindle first. If mounting something that contacts the spindle register, check the register. If mounting something inside the Morse taper then you have to check that, too.
  • Use a Sharpie and mark the thing that is being checked and another reference mark in line with it that is on something stationary. This is really important. Try to make your marks in such a way that you minimize parallax. That is, when they line up, you're sure they line up.
  • Mount the indicator correctly (angle of the indicator arm correct for that indicator) and preload it so there is some tension on the internal springs. I usually preload to at least 0.050", then zero the dial. If I tap the indicator and the needle jumps around and doesn't return to exactly where I set it then I know I need to re-configure the holder so it is solid. When you zero the needle, it needs to be dead center on some unit so you know exactly where your starting point is; no guessing allowed.
  • With your reference marks lined up, manually turn the thing you're measuring one full revolution and be certain the indicator needle returns exactly to your starting point when your Sharpie marks align. If they do, this tells you your set up is repeatable and you can rely on it. If they don't then you need to reconfigure it more solidly or change indicators.
  • Now, make one more revolution manually but slowly and note the maximum deviation of the needle. If you can, Sharpie mark the turning thing so you know where that deviation is. Come back to your reference marks and check that you hit zero. Now repeat to see if the deviation is in the same place and of the same magnitude. If it is, then that is the amount your concentricity is out.
  • It is a good idea to check a thing in multiple places - at least three spots on a spindle or taper (near the outer end, a bit of the way in and way in). That way you are sure the defect is over the whole surface and not at one spot.
  • When using a D1 camlock attachment, like a chuck, it is a good idea to check your run out in all of the possible mounting positions so you know which one is the best and then put a witness mark on the chuck so you can always remount it for best accuracy. This assumes the run out is acceptable and you're going to keep it.
This is not perfect but it is the best you can usually do in a hobby shop. At least you'll know, with a reasonable degree of certainty, that something has such and such amount of run out and you'll have a good idea which component it is and how bad it is. We frequently see run out being checked under power on Youtube; not sure what you can tell when doing that but it isn't concentricity of the component being checked - too unreliable, too many interfaces.

A seller cannot argue with this kind of procedure without sending a tech to check it personally. They will almost always just refund or replace the thing without a fuss.
 
mikey said:
This is not perfect but it is the best you can usually do in a hobby shop. At least you'll know, with a reasonable degree of certainty, that something has such and such amount of run out and you'll have a good idea which component it is and how bad it is. We frequently see run out being checked under power on Youtube; not sure what you can tell when doing

A seller cannot argue with this kind of procedure without sending a tech to check it personally. They will almost always just refund or replace the thing without a fuss.
Click to expand...

Remember who the dealer is, MSC, LMS, Shars and others will understand and work to make it right, the 2 times, I’ve spoken to a BangGood rep, they had no clue, all they know is a stock number, they have no idea if it’s a sex toy, coat, electrical part or a BBQ grill.

Everything I’ve order from them has been exactly as stated, I had a billing issue and a partial delivery issue (second half of the order comes 2 days later), even though they were in California, it was painfully obvious, I was speaking English, they were speaking, what they thought was English, but they were not the same English.
 
Buffalo21 said:
... even though they were in California, it was painfully obvious, I was speaking English, they were speaking, what they thought was English, but they were not the same English.
Click to expand...

Made me laugh!
 
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