Beall collet chuck

I don't but it looks like they specialize mainly in woodworking tools rather than metal working. May want to ask them what the guaranteed TIR is. But something like that is not hard to make & would be pretty accurate if machined directly on your lathe. Just buy the nut.
 
I was thinking that the body would be relatively simple (says the total newb!) but the cap would be a trick.
I’m going to inquire as my 10K takes a 6K collet which are unobtainable with normal person dollars.


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Some people buy the cap and make the body to fit. Makes it easier to fit your particular lathe (or mill).
 
DavidR8 said:
I was thinking that the body would be relatively simple (says the total newb!) but the cap would be a trick.
I’m going to inquire as my 10K takes a 6K collet which are unobtainable with normal person dollars.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
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By the cap if you mean the collet nut, yeah just buy the nut. I'd much rather buy the nut than try to make my own. Quality of the nut is important if you want low run out.

If you plan on using ER collets for the lathe only, might want to consider making an ER-40 size. ER-40 goes up to 1" (Maritool has oversized ones though).
 
I own a Beall chuck and it is pretty accurate, on the order of about 0.0001" tir on my Sherline spindle. If you use good collets, it works well. It will also take a higher quality nut, like those from Rego-fix, ETM or Techniks.
 
Mikey got me hooked on Beall when I was just starting out. I now have 3 of them, one ER-32 3/4"-16 for my Sherline, and two 1-1/2"-8 in both ER32 and ER50 for my 10x24 lathe. They are very solid and well made, the ER50 has a bearing cap, the ER32 a regular solid cap. I don't know the TIR, I tested the Sherline's ER32, but it was several years ago. I do remember the run out was trivial compared to my ability.

Beall will sell the chuck without collets if you want to supply your own. The collets Beall sells are good, but for about the same price you can get Techniks collets which are a known quality brand. I have all Beall collets for mine and have not been unhappy with them Their collets are unbranded but, I don't think they are using low end Chinese collets.


Larger ER sizes are nice, but ER32 is by far the most popular size so you have a much larger range of collets, and collet accessories than the others.
 
The spindle bore on my 10K is 27/32' so I wonder if ER40 isn't the best size for me.
 
Either an ER32 or ER40 will work. ER32 goes up to 3/4" or slightly bigger in metric sizes so it matches your spindle bore. ER40 goes up to 1" so you can grab larger stuff but it won't pass through the spindle. Most of us get whatever matches the spindle bore to keep costs under control.

My advice to you is to not worry about an ER chuck for now. Learn to use your 3 and 4 jaw chucks first and focus on learning how to use your lathe so you can turn accurately. ER collet chucks are good for grabbing threaded or previously finished parts but you can get by with your jawed chucks while you learn. Spend your money on things that you really need - good turning tools, thread cutting tools, drills, boring bars, QCTP - you know, the things that you really use every time you step up to the lathe. ER chucks are nice to have but are not used that much when used properly.
 
mikey said:
My advice to you is to not worry about an ER chuck for now. Learn to use your 3 and 4 jaw chucks first and focus on learning how to use your lathe so you can turn accurately. ER collet chucks are good for grabbing threaded or previously finished parts but you can get by with your jawed chucks while you learn. Spend your money on things that you really need - good turning tools, thread cutting tools, drills, boring bars, QCTP - you know, the things that you really use every time you step up to the lathe. ER chucks are nice to have but are not used that much when used properly.
Click to expand...
Thanks @mikey
That's they way I'm leaning. I'm researching independent 4-jaws now.
 
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