BL-Touch install

GunsOfNavarone

GunsOfNavarone

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I was happy when I saw the BL-touch for Creality was on a great sale on Amazon...I jumped at it. I knew from reading months ago on the install that I was in over my head, but I'd get there when I got there.
First speed bump- I downloaded the flashing software "PROGIP" I connected the flashing cable to my *8-bit* motherboard. They shook hands and it was ready for whatever damage I was gonna throw at it! :cool:
Anyway, it wanted the .hex software.... what? So the long, boring search for some sort of software I needed but didn't know the name of, was off! Not to put you to sleep with the details of that journey... I ended up here. BL touch ***EDIT** I downloaded both to my desktop...one is in Chinese, one English. I suspect there will be more issues, so I'm leaving the thread, and if not, I'll record my experience.

**FIXED...FINAL NOTE**
Anyone who might stumble across this with their own issues or plans, this ended up being A LOT of work. I had such random luck with 1st layers, the BL touch really seemed to be a great idea. The initial flashing/boot-loading went well and everything functioned correctly, but after hours and hours of internet searches and trial and error, I COULD NOT get the offset of the probe vs the nozzle into the machine. It seems to be a no brainer that this would be set being it was the unit made for ender 5 and came with a metal mount. I understood how to adjust but couldn't get it to happen. My personal experience with, that was a dead end. It forced me to do a huge upgrade to a new 32bit (was 8 bit) mother board. I had to go to Marlin 2.23 and 3 days later, 2.23 (TH3D). I am thrilled with my fist layers now, how much quiet and smoother motions are...I'm very happy. And now that it is free to be edited & flashed very quick and easy, about all upgrades and improvements are on the table. (I do want direct drive in the next couple weeks)
What seemed like scary magic before, I know WAY more than I ever wanted, but it will help with everything printed related in the future. Thanks all that threw some ides/suggestions my way!
 
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OK, flashing the motherboard. There are options...lots and lots of options. The program you use to flash with and the firmware you flash it with. It can get down right complicated. I think I have decided to go with TH3D firmware and they have their own Arduino loader...TBH I may upgrade to a 32 bit mother board of theirs when it becomes available again, the 8 bit stuff is quickly becoming obsolete.
Next, I have read and watched that the version 3 BL touch is not compatible with some boards. It will function, but it will not stop the Z axis. There are ways of dinkering in the software and getting it to work OR just desoldering the C7 capacitor which I'm leaning heavily towards if my BL doesn't do it's job.
Is MARLIN an Arduino language? Are 3d printers Arduino?
 
You're getting into some advanced stuff here. Marlin is an open source project for 3D printer firmware. It's pretty popular as it works well and is free. Arduino is an open electronics and code platform. The language is C++.

Stopping the Z should be done by the firmware, perhaps the capacitor is slowing down the signal or something. I don't think a 32bit board is required, but it is certainly the future. I haven't felt the need to upgrade yet.
 
Arduino is a circuit board (there are many types, yours would be a MEGA 2560). Arduino has a compiler named "Arduino" also. A RAMPS board stacks on top of the Arduino. The RAMPS controls your stepper motors, reads endstops etc. 8 bit boards are fine, the slicer does all of the math. Marlin is firmware. It can be used on a wide range of controllers. The easiest way to update your firmware is to have a copy of the source code for your printer (no you can't retrieve it from your Arduino) and use a text compare program so that you can transfer* all of your settings. You then edit the source code to use the BL touch. Confused yet?
 
.......Transfer your settings to a fresh copy of the source code that you download.

.....and then compile, then flash the board.
 
Here is where you can find the source files. Beware, they are often wrong. Crealty probably has the source files available somewhere.

github.com

Marlin/config at 2.0.x · MarlinFirmware/Marlin

Marlin is an optimized firmware for RepRap 3D printers based on the Arduino platform. Many commercial 3D printers come with Marlin installed. Check with your vendor if you need source code for your...
github.com github.com

If I had a nickel for every time that I edited a source file, compiled, flashed, tested, rinsed and repeated I could have a complete machine shop with any tooling that I pleased.
 
Ok...I really felt like I did my research and I thought it paid off but there is one small problem, I even know what it is, but no idea where to fix.
I ended up using the complier software the manufacturer suggested and the hex file. Uploaded, no issues, installed hardware, all good. Hit bed level, everything working great! However, it is not considering the mount being left of/in front of the extruder. (X -42mm, Y -9mm) When it probes the left side of bed, it falls off by about 15-20mm.
So this PROGISP program doesn't really have any configuration.h files or really anything I can see to adjust. I am at a loss of what to do. This is the .hex file for the Ender 5 pro and it is the munt that came with the kit, I guess what I'm saying is I am using everything suggested and supplied by the Creality BLtouch kit.
Any direction here would be very appreciated. (side note, my disable steppers no longer has any options under it to do anything. Perhaps b/c the purpose mostly was to be able to adjust bed level with paper...? That in theory isn't needed anymore?
 
If it's marlin, there is a setting for that. I believe it's called PROBE_OFFSET. You might be able to adjust it with gcode commands as well.

XYZ Probe Offset

Set the XYZ distance from the nozzle to the probe trigger-point. These offsets are required for the firmware to know how to probe the bed and where probed points are in relation to the nozzle, and vice-versa.
marlinfw.org marlinfw.org

Once you have it set up, you need to save the changes. I think it's M500, but you should double check.
 
@KevinM I downloaded that Marlin, grabbed the Creality Ender 5 Pro config and edited it to my probe offset, but I can't really do anything with a .h file. The system I used was PROGISP which wants a .HEX file. What do I do with a properly edited configuration.h file?? How do I get it into my printer? This whole Arduino thing is supposed to be so easy, maybe it's a left brain /right brain thing...Whatever it is, it is entirely nonsensicle to me.
HELP!
 
There is a tutorial on the marlin page for setting up a dev environment. The h file has to be compiled in.
 
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