I am new to owning a radial arm saw. I have a 70's Craftsman 10 inch, 2.75 HP, yard sale item. Great saw but seems short on power. I put a blade on it when I got it and it needs another now. I always heard these need a different pitch blade from a table saw or a compound miter saw because it cuts from the opposite direction of table and miter saws. It grabs a lot, locks up even with a new blade. Hard to feed smoothly. I tried at my local lumberyard to buy a special blade but all my sources only have the same blade as for a 10 inch table saw. Ready for another and would like a better choice.
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Blades for radial arm saw
- Thread starter CJ5Dave
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- Apr 14, 2014
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I've had a 10" Dewalt 740 radial arm saw since the 1970's. I use the same blades in this saw as I do in my Craftsman 10" table saw. In total I have about a dozen blades with different tooth counts and pitches. They all work well in either saw. I would stay away from carbide tipped blades. They have little set to the teeth and a very wide kerf. Being a direct drive blade, the motor will tend to slow down and overheat when it gets slowed in tough material
When we were building our current house, I was cutting tons of treated lumber for the deck with the radial arm saw. I went through a couple overloads before the counterman at the store asked what I was doing. He suggested dumping the carbide tipped blades for standard HSS and even try a hollow ground planer blade to minimize the drag on the wet lumber. That helped the problem, but the treated lumber was so wet the swarf was more like mud than sawdust. To keep from destroying the saw I had to quit trying to saw the treated stuff with it. I Finally purchased a cheap Craftsman 10" belt driven table saw to cut the treated lumber. When the blade would slow down or get stuck the belt would slip and not overheat the motor. I still have both saws and they are both used on a regular basis. The Radial arm saw is about 50 years old and the table saw is 36 years old.
If you're having problems with a smooth feed, check the tracks in the arm and the bearings the head rides on. Often times the bearings wear and need to be either properly seated in the arm tracks or eventually be replaced. Dewalt has a procedure in the owner's manual for properly seating and tensioning the bearings. I would think Craftsman would use a similar procedure. I would also check the tracks for sawdust and pitch deposits or burrs. I believe Craftsman used an aluminum arm which can be damaged by improperly fitting head bearings.
Here's a link to the Dewalt manual on the Vintage Machinery website. Page 7 shows the bearing adjustment. Hopefully your saw has something similar. I tried to download a copy of the manual, but it was too large.
When we were building our current house, I was cutting tons of treated lumber for the deck with the radial arm saw. I went through a couple overloads before the counterman at the store asked what I was doing. He suggested dumping the carbide tipped blades for standard HSS and even try a hollow ground planer blade to minimize the drag on the wet lumber. That helped the problem, but the treated lumber was so wet the swarf was more like mud than sawdust. To keep from destroying the saw I had to quit trying to saw the treated stuff with it. I Finally purchased a cheap Craftsman 10" belt driven table saw to cut the treated lumber. When the blade would slow down or get stuck the belt would slip and not overheat the motor. I still have both saws and they are both used on a regular basis. The Radial arm saw is about 50 years old and the table saw is 36 years old.
If you're having problems with a smooth feed, check the tracks in the arm and the bearings the head rides on. Often times the bearings wear and need to be either properly seated in the arm tracks or eventually be replaced. Dewalt has a procedure in the owner's manual for properly seating and tensioning the bearings. I would think Craftsman would use a similar procedure. I would also check the tracks for sawdust and pitch deposits or burrs. I believe Craftsman used an aluminum arm which can be damaged by improperly fitting head bearings.
Here's a link to the Dewalt manual on the Vintage Machinery website. Page 7 shows the bearing adjustment. Hopefully your saw has something similar. I tried to download a copy of the manual, but it was too large.
Yes I have been cutting mostly treated wood this week and it is a HSS blade. For one thing it is dull and I need to pick up another, but I have been suprised how much I use this saw since I got it. Seems kinda weak for a 2.75 HP saw but like you say it is direct drive. I need to get some type of fitting to hook it up to the shop vac as it is in the small basement and too much dust to breathe. The whole basement is on one circuit so with a hard cut and the vacuum on, it really dims the lights. The track is really not binding its is just difficult to move the blade in and not feed it too fast for the cut rate it can stand. I have a little portable Craftsman 7 inch radial arm saw and I believe it has a faster cut than the big Craftsman.
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According to the Dewalt manual the head bearings in the arm track should be tight enough that it takes about 6lbs.of pressure to move the head.
Any more than that the bearings will wear quickly. Less than that the head won’t track well and the blade will catch on the sides of the kerf causing it to grab. A sharp blade is important.
When I was cutting the lumber for our deck I went through several blades. At the time it only cost about $3.00 to have one sharpened. I bought over a dozen because it usually took a couple weeks to get them back
Any more than that the bearings will wear quickly. Less than that the head won’t track well and the blade will catch on the sides of the kerf causing it to grab. A sharp blade is important.
When I was cutting the lumber for our deck I went through several blades. At the time it only cost about $3.00 to have one sharpened. I bought over a dozen because it usually took a couple weeks to get them back
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Radial arm saws have always looked too scary for me. You guys be careful, y'hear?
LOOK FORAND BUY A CONTROL CUT BLADE!
They are HARD to find, but worth it.
Sears sold a 12 tooth blade that cut wood like butter.
No matter how hard you pulled, you could not stall the blade.
It looks like a simple toothless saw blade, but then 12 teeth with a gullet just in front of the tooth, and carbide as well.
With the material directly behind the tooth, the bite is controlled and you will be amazed haw well it works.
Sent from my SM-G781V using Tapatalk
They are HARD to find, but worth it.
Sears sold a 12 tooth blade that cut wood like butter.
No matter how hard you pulled, you could not stall the blade.
It looks like a simple toothless saw blade, but then 12 teeth with a gullet just in front of the tooth, and carbide as well.
With the material directly behind the tooth, the bite is controlled and you will be amazed haw well it works.
Sent from my SM-G781V using Tapatalk
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- Apr 14, 2014
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Several manufacturers make a head return spring. It gives the operator more control in that it requires a constant amount of pull to move the blade through the wood. At one time they were very popular. Should you let go of the handle the head will retract to the home position. Today they're a bit harder to come by and usually cost around $200.00 for a good one. Over the years I've used saws that have them, but never invested in one for my own saw.
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you want a negative hook blade. Only carbide.. If cutting pressure treated lumber, clean the blade after. Two things happen, first it is a wet wood usually unless you had it for years. Second, the chemical can eat the carbide and steel.
So I would use simple green in an open oil pan 50/50 and clean it with a brass brush.
Make sure you respect that saw, I used one for years, and it almost cost me when I stuck my dado blade in it. it raced right toward me. I guess I had my hand out of the way, but I think I left a brown streak in my pants...
I will say I did a lot of good work with that saw, but I don't miss it. Maybe for long work, but my sliding miter is a good replacement.
Good luck, stay safe, and remember that saws will kickback, so stay out of the way, and you'll be good.
So I would use simple green in an open oil pan 50/50 and clean it with a brass brush.
Make sure you respect that saw, I used one for years, and it almost cost me when I stuck my dado blade in it. it raced right toward me. I guess I had my hand out of the way, but I think I left a brown streak in my pants...
I will say I did a lot of good work with that saw, but I don't miss it. Maybe for long work, but my sliding miter is a good replacement.
Good luck, stay safe, and remember that saws will kickback, so stay out of the way, and you'll be good.
