Boring Head Question

Long Roof

H-M Supporter - Silver Member
H-M Supporter - Silver Member
Joined
Jul 29, 2013
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My mill has an R8 quill and I have a set of collets. I am looking at adding a boring head to my tooling and see that they are available in both straight shank and R8 shank. I thought an R8 shank would be better since it would not require use of a collet but I see more of a selection of straight shank boring heads. Does the shank style really matter? Any other considerations when it comes to a boring head?

Thanks,
Steve
 
I would say the shank style doesn't matter. The upside to an R8 shank in a Bridgeport style machine is that no additional collets are needed. The downside is that (if the shank is removable) will need to be changed when using it on any other style machine. If the shank is not removable the head can't be used on any other style machine.

I have a Bridgeport style machine and several boring heads. Some heads have the R8 shank and others have a straight shank. In all cases the shanks are removable. If you don't intend to change machines the R8 style would require one less step to setup. If another machine is in your future I would stick with the straight shank style in that it can be used in just about any machine. If you choose a head with a removable shank it can be changed out to match a future machine. Most replacement shanks run in the $25.00 to $40 .00 range depending on size and quality
 
I prefer a straight shank simply because it requires less knee cranking to get it into the spindle. Same with chucks, a shortened 3/4 dia. shank saves a lot of work. I try to keep all straight shanks the same size to reduce collet changes. I wish they made "S&D" drills with 3/4 shanks, even the drills smaller than 3/4.
 
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On a side thought, wouldn’t a R8 boring bar have less chances for runout issues than a straight shank in a R8 collet?
 
Thanks for the replies. I had in my mind that the R8 setup would be better but see that it is not something to get hung up on. Looks like there are lots of choices out there. I am looking at used vs new, import vs USA. Anything in particular I should steer away from?
 
I have an R8 boring head for my mill. It's only drawback is the you have to bring the work up to the spindle.

When I get a bigger one (its only 2.5") the bigger one will still be in R8 format.
 
My mill has an R8 spindle, too, and it is very tedious to have to knock a collet loose, remove it, replace it and tighten it up just to switch tools. This led me to the Tormach TTS system that uses a modified R8 collet to mount tools. You simply loosen the drawbar and tap it to release the tool, then insert the next one and go. Very fast and they offer a boring adapter to fit the better boring heads. Any 3/4" diameter shank will also fit into this collet and speeds things up considerably. You might want to take a look at the Tormach tool holder system but you can do the same thing with any collet. Just use the same size shank of your most commonly used tools.

With regard to boring heads, I prefer Criterion heads. They are well made, precise and direct reading. That is, what you dial in is what you get. The DBL series from Criterion is probably the most widely cloned design on the market for a very good reason - it works. My oldest Criterion head must be about 30 years old by now and it still works as well as the day I bought it so they're a good value. There are many higher end heads, boring and facing heads and even heads that can work in tenths but for the average hobby guy, a standard Criterion DBL-style head will work for the vast majority of your projects. I also think that a 2" head is sufficient for most of us; it will go from tiny out to over 6". These smaller heads usually hold either 1/2" or 3/8" diameter boring bar shanks and while I have heads that use each size, I prefer the 3/8" bars because of the reduced mass. Lower mass reduces centripetal forces so vibration is likewise lowered.

Look up the Criterion DBL-202 boring head on ebay. The 202-A holds 3/8" bars, the 202-B takes 1/2" shanks. If you are patient, you can find a head in good condition for a fair price. All DBL heads are threaded with a 7/8-20 back and adapters to fit any machine are available.
 
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