Being new here, I’m not sure if this is the right forum for the topic. Anyhow, I’m looking for a decent quality lathe, mostly for turning small steel parts. Preferably under $1k. 14” or more center to center. The options involving new machines are rather limited: there are Chinese generic platforms (starting from around $500 on eBay), but, according to reviews, quality is hit and miss. There’s Sherline, probably of a nice quality, but fairly costly with accessories; also, feedback about it in terms of metalworking varies greatly. Finally, there is a huge variety of overpriced “antiques” (used solidly built machines anywhere between 20 and 100+ years old, of uncertain - but likely high - degrees of wear). No question that South Bends or Logans were way better than a $500 Chinese lathe when they were new, but after all those years it’s really hard to tell... I would greatly appreciate any comments/advice on the options outlined above or any others.
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Buying a metal lathe
- Thread starter xyz07
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Hi and welcome.
Your question is one that many have asked and even more have answered. Common considerations are what are you planning to make, how much of a project can you tolerate, and are you ready to spend 2 or 3 times your stated budget
I highly recommend looking at the thread @DavidR8 started when he was looking for a lathe earlier this year or maybe last. New machines under $1000 have a high likelihood of being a disappointment but you can get decent used machines in that range if you are patient.
That's the biggest thing, patience but being ready to buy when the right deal comes along.
You'll get lots of good advice here but you can learn even more by reading all the "what first lathe?" threads on here.
Cheers,
John
Your question is one that many have asked and even more have answered. Common considerations are what are you planning to make, how much of a project can you tolerate, and are you ready to spend 2 or 3 times your stated budget
I highly recommend looking at the thread @DavidR8 started when he was looking for a lathe earlier this year or maybe last. New machines under $1000 have a high likelihood of being a disappointment but you can get decent used machines in that range if you are patient.
That's the biggest thing, patience but being ready to buy when the right deal comes along.
You'll get lots of good advice here but you can learn even more by reading all the "what first lathe?" threads on here.
Cheers,
John
- Joined
- Jan 2, 2019
- Messages
- 6,581
If you want to get your feet wet here's a small machine in your price range.
John
Unimat Lathe - general for sale - by owner
I have a Unimat Lathe, acquired from my late uncle. His hobbies were model making and HO trains....
houston.craigslist.org
John
- Joined
- Oct 4, 2016
- Messages
- 7,030
One of our talented members has been putting his through it's paces. A little short in the bed length though.
www.hobby-machinist.com
Torture Testing the Unimat SL1000
I have a Unimat SL1000 and a DB200. they are enchanting due to their small footprint as well as for the precision in which they are made. I'm torture testing my SL1000 to find the boundaries of operation. (and possibly step over them from time to time) for the control portion of the experiment...
www.hobby-machinist.com
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I appreciate the comments. I've looked at Unimats. True - it is a bit short for me, plus I've been a bit turned off by the tubular bed - not sure if it would be rigid enough to handle metalworking with acceptable precision (?).
So - no Sherline aficionados here? That was my "primary target," until I was told to stay away by someone quite knowledgeable and experienced . Almost ordered the 17" version.
So - no Sherline aficionados here?
That was my "primary target," until I was told to stay away by someone quite knowledgeable and experienced . Almost ordered the 17" version.I appreciate the comments. I've looked at Unimats. True - it is a bit short for me, plus I've been a bit turned off by the tubular bed - not sure if it would be rigid enough to handle metalworking with acceptable precision (?).
So - no Sherline aficionados here?
Mikey will probably chime in soon. He uses a Sherline, I think. And does some excellent work with it. Also is very prone to share his extensive knowledge.
Chuck
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- Sep 8, 2019
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If I were to buy a lathe smaller than my 10X30, I wouldn’t hesitate to buy a Sherline. I researched them extensively on the internet and I found no reason to look further. One wonders, however, if the limited rigidity would hamper your work efforts.
- Joined
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Check out Frank Hoose on YouTube:
m.youtube.com
Frank Hoose
Product reviews, tutorials and information about metal-working mini lathes, mini mills and other tools for the home-shop machinist and model engineer
- Joined
- Jul 31, 2020
- Messages
- 765
Some things to consider with your mini-lathe purchase:
RPMs, If you are going to mostly be working surfaces which are 1 to 2 inches in diameter, the typical 2500 Max RPM mini-lathes can be good. If you are working larger diameters, you will need a lathe which can turn slower AND have good torque. If you are planning on making 1/8th to 1/4 inch items, you may find that 2500 RPMs may not leave the finish you desire.
Length: or, the dreaded mini-lathe math issue. The Short answer is, for drilling a bore, subtract roughly 8 to 10 inches from the advertise length of the lathe, and that will be the maximum length of part you can work. Many of the length measurements (for lathes) are from the face of the chuck to the tailstock spindle (with the tailstock pulled fully back, and the quill of the tailstock cranked until it is fully back. The quill has to be moved forward about 3/4 to 1 inch to accept a Morris number 2 taper drill bit or chuck. Then you have the length of the drill (or with a chuck, the length of the chuck Plus the length of the drill). For drilling operations, you may discover you can only work a part that is 2 inches long with some of the smaller length lathes. Drilling is often done before machining a more precise bore.
Motor: Short answer, Brushless is preferred over brushed motors for reliability. They typically generate more torque than brushed motors. For a mini-lathe, I like brushless motors with variable speed control. For a big lathe (outside your price range), a robust all metal transmission with an AC motor.
Tool Post: an OXA quick change tool post (QCTP) is preferred. The typical tool posts on mini lathes assume you have a stack of shims handy to set the ideal tool height. Most people starting out don't have a "shim collection" laying around. The QCTP posts don't need shims to set tool height.
Chuck: Larger the better. Not only does it act as a flywheel to keep RPM variations (and vibrations) to a minimum, but the specifications on many of them are a bit misleading. My 4 inch chuck can only open up to grip a part that is about 2 inches in diameter. To hold a larger part, I must swap jaws on my chuck. A 3 inch chuck is very limiting, and is the common size on inexpensive lathes.
Now, the reality check comes due. I think of mini-lathes as a "platform" to build a good lathe. Most common modifications to improve them include:
Headstock bearings: Press out original bearings and replace them with tapered bearings. This also mean you need a shorter keyed spacer between the (thicker) tapered bearings and the spindle gear. (True for Sieg, Grizzly, Little Machine Shop, harbor freight, and some others), not true for all mini-lathes.
Brass Gibs: Yes, you can polish and shape the gibs that come with the lathe to improve them. Or, you can buy precisely made brass Gibs and swap them out (preferred).
Gears: Most inexpensive mini-lathes come with plastic gears. An experienced person, who works to align them, and never stresses them, may get years of satisfaction with them. Most newbies will end up stripping them at the least opportune time. Consider purchasing a Metal Gear Set to reduce frustration.
Tool Post: If it didn't come with a Quick Change Tool Post, consider this as a worthy upgrade to increase ease of use.
Other things needed/desired:
Grinder: Unless you want to buy a new tool when your old one gets dull, consider a grinder with a platen which can be set at an angle. Learn the dark arts of tool grinding. You can certainly go the route of buying cutting tools with replaceable carbide too.
Saw: A small lathe only works with short lengths of stock. You will probably enjoy the first 5 or 6 times you have to hacksaw through 2 inch stock, but after that, it will seem like work. Most steel shop workers will hide, when they see the guy who wants 20 pieces of steel which are 2 to 6 inches long.
Bench: Something really stout. Wood, even thick wood eventually bows and flexes under the weight of even a tiny lathe. This changes the "level" of the lathe over time.
Sweat Equity: Your lathe and table will need leveled. Your lathe will need the Gibs replaced/adjusted. Your lathe will require initial cleaning and then lubrication. It will need periodic cleaning and lubrication. Your headstock may need aligning, your tailstock is almost certain to need aligning.
Other needed goodies: A set of micrometers, a 6 inch digital/dial caliper, an indicator with magnetic base, cutting tools for left hand/right hand/threading/boring, and drills of multiple sizes. A drill chuck with the correct taper for your tail stock. If your tools use carbide replaceable inserts, at least ten spare inserts sitting around. I find a steady rest useful for larger diameter stock (the chucks on mini-lathes don't grip as firmly as bigger lathes). And let's not forget books on machining, to a newbie they are invaluable.
I don't mean to scare you off, but the running joke around here is: "I spent more on my tools, than what my entire lathe cost". Budget accordingly.
RPMs, If you are going to mostly be working surfaces which are 1 to 2 inches in diameter, the typical 2500 Max RPM mini-lathes can be good. If you are working larger diameters, you will need a lathe which can turn slower AND have good torque. If you are planning on making 1/8th to 1/4 inch items, you may find that 2500 RPMs may not leave the finish you desire.
Length: or, the dreaded mini-lathe math issue. The Short answer is, for drilling a bore, subtract roughly 8 to 10 inches from the advertise length of the lathe, and that will be the maximum length of part you can work. Many of the length measurements (for lathes) are from the face of the chuck to the tailstock spindle (with the tailstock pulled fully back, and the quill of the tailstock cranked until it is fully back. The quill has to be moved forward about 3/4 to 1 inch to accept a Morris number 2 taper drill bit or chuck. Then you have the length of the drill (or with a chuck, the length of the chuck Plus the length of the drill). For drilling operations, you may discover you can only work a part that is 2 inches long with some of the smaller length lathes. Drilling is often done before machining a more precise bore.
Motor: Short answer, Brushless is preferred over brushed motors for reliability. They typically generate more torque than brushed motors. For a mini-lathe, I like brushless motors with variable speed control. For a big lathe (outside your price range), a robust all metal transmission with an AC motor.
Tool Post: an OXA quick change tool post (QCTP) is preferred. The typical tool posts on mini lathes assume you have a stack of shims handy to set the ideal tool height. Most people starting out don't have a "shim collection" laying around. The QCTP posts don't need shims to set tool height.
Chuck: Larger the better. Not only does it act as a flywheel to keep RPM variations (and vibrations) to a minimum, but the specifications on many of them are a bit misleading. My 4 inch chuck can only open up to grip a part that is about 2 inches in diameter. To hold a larger part, I must swap jaws on my chuck. A 3 inch chuck is very limiting, and is the common size on inexpensive lathes.
Now, the reality check comes due. I think of mini-lathes as a "platform" to build a good lathe. Most common modifications to improve them include:
Headstock bearings: Press out original bearings and replace them with tapered bearings. This also mean you need a shorter keyed spacer between the (thicker) tapered bearings and the spindle gear. (True for Sieg, Grizzly, Little Machine Shop, harbor freight, and some others), not true for all mini-lathes.
Brass Gibs: Yes, you can polish and shape the gibs that come with the lathe to improve them. Or, you can buy precisely made brass Gibs and swap them out (preferred).
Gears: Most inexpensive mini-lathes come with plastic gears. An experienced person, who works to align them, and never stresses them, may get years of satisfaction with them. Most newbies will end up stripping them at the least opportune time. Consider purchasing a Metal Gear Set to reduce frustration.
Tool Post: If it didn't come with a Quick Change Tool Post, consider this as a worthy upgrade to increase ease of use.
Other things needed/desired:
Grinder: Unless you want to buy a new tool when your old one gets dull, consider a grinder with a platen which can be set at an angle. Learn the dark arts of tool grinding. You can certainly go the route of buying cutting tools with replaceable carbide too.
Saw: A small lathe only works with short lengths of stock. You will probably enjoy the first 5 or 6 times you have to hacksaw through 2 inch stock, but after that, it will seem like work. Most steel shop workers will hide, when they see the guy who wants 20 pieces of steel which are 2 to 6 inches long.
Bench: Something really stout. Wood, even thick wood eventually bows and flexes under the weight of even a tiny lathe. This changes the "level" of the lathe over time.
Sweat Equity: Your lathe and table will need leveled. Your lathe will need the Gibs replaced/adjusted. Your lathe will require initial cleaning and then lubrication. It will need periodic cleaning and lubrication. Your headstock may need aligning, your tailstock is almost certain to need aligning.
Other needed goodies: A set of micrometers, a 6 inch digital/dial caliper, an indicator with magnetic base, cutting tools for left hand/right hand/threading/boring, and drills of multiple sizes. A drill chuck with the correct taper for your tail stock. If your tools use carbide replaceable inserts, at least ten spare inserts sitting around. I find a steady rest useful for larger diameter stock (the chucks on mini-lathes don't grip as firmly as bigger lathes). And let's not forget books on machining, to a newbie they are invaluable.
I don't mean to scare you off, but the running joke around here is: "I spent more on my tools, than what my entire lathe cost". Budget accordingly.
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