Buying a new lathe

[GaryK]

Thanks Gary. For the same reason you mentioned, I won't be using the MT5 center. With my dog plate the MT5 center sticks out way to far for my liking. I would imagine using the faceplate as a dog plate it would stick out even more. I ordered a bearing steel import center from Enco that was on sale & applied a 15% discount to it. What I received was a Bison center which was a nice surprise, it would be a shame to cut this sucker down. I'll just store it away for now. But anyway, I won't worry about it & will stick with using the sleeve & a MT3 center (also got a Bison to replace the one that came with the lathe).

I can't imagine them using a drill bit to bore the spindle but who knows. I wonder if anyone has actually tried to bore the spindle on these 12x36 lathes. Looking through my spindle it's not bored perfectly through. Aside from the larger bore towards the front, my spindle is slighty bigger on the threaded end just before the threads about 3" deep. I measured the bore about 6" deep from the threaded end.

In regards to the TS, the stock set screws are junk. They are so loose. I've been meaning to order replacements on the next Mcmaster ordered but recently a friend did the same & sent me pair of replacements since they come in a pack of ten. I never stripped mine yet but man do the replacements feel so much more assuring.

Your lathe is different in other ways too if I remember. Carriage stop away from the cross slide and a different threading or speed chart?

 

[darkzero]

Your lathe is different in other ways too if I remember. Carriage stop away from the cross slide and a different threading or speed chart?

Yes, that is correct. I have noticed some subtle differences. Locations of the carriage stop, gearbox dials, oil sights, oil fillers & drains. Threading, feeding, & thread dial charts, my chart also does not reference Z1 anywhere on it. Coolant system layout, control panel layout, spindle brake assy. There's a couple of others too.

I used to wonder if my batch of lathes were made in another factory, probably not. When I got my lathe I immediately noticed the little differences compared to all the others that got the same lathe before me. Not uncommon to see stuff made overseas to have changes. Even with the PM45 I have seen quite a few little differences on a number of the ones I've seen. But then I started see those who got the lathes after me & theirs were pretty much the same as the others. Strange, for better or for worse, I doubt these type of changes throughout the batches are because of "improvements", more like what parts were available at the time. But no big deal, essentially they are all the same. I'm very happy with the lathe I have not had any problems with it whatsoever.

How is that collet closer working for you? I miss using those in shop class at the CC. I always thought there was not a taper attachment for the import 12x36 lathes as I've never seen one but I noticed Matt has them listed now. I've been meaning to ask him about it but I'll ask when I'm ready to purchase one if there really is one available.

 

[tripletap3]

I am finally up and running with my PM1236. Matt was really backed up getting the T nuts machined for the QCTP’s so I did like Gary and told him to ship it and I would do it. I can really see why it takes him so long to do 60 of them. I thought they came in at least the shape of a T nut just larger but it was just a big block of steel. No big problem though for a Hertal ¾” roughing end mill. Ran a few test cuts then decided to make some threads. Threaded a piece of scrap aluminum ½” -20 (that is what the machine was already set up for). It was set up on the lowest speed but still doesn't look too bad and fits the nut like a glove.

 

[GaryK]

I am finally up and running with my PM1236. Matt was really backed up getting the T nuts machined for the QCTP’s so I did like Gary and told him to ship it and I would do it. I can really see why it takes him so long to do 60 of them. I thought they came in at least the shape of a T nut just larger but it was just a big block of steel. No big problem though for a Hertal ¾” roughing end mill. Ran a few test cuts then decided to make some threads. Threaded a piece of scrap aluminum ½” -20 (that is what the machine was already set up for). It was set up on the lowest speed but still doesn't look too bad and fits the nut like a glove.

Yup, just a big chunk of steel. Anytime I'm removing a lot of material I use my Tri-dex endmill. 1.5" dia and R8 shank. R8 is the only way to go for rigidity.



I bet you wished you had done that weeks ago. Well, you're all up to speed now, so it's time to make something!

Gary

 

[darkzero]

I am finally up and running with my PM1236. Matt was really backed up getting the T nuts machined for the QCTP’s so I did like Gary and told him to ship it and I would do it. I can really see why it takes him so long to do 60 of them. I thought they came in at least the shape of a T nut just larger but it was just a big block of steel. No big problem though for a Hertal ¾” roughing end mill. Ran a few test cuts then decided to make some threads. Threaded a piece of scrap aluminum ½” -20 (that is what the machine was already set up for). It was set up on the lowest speed but still doesn't look too bad and fits the nut like a glove.

Congrats! Looking good.

 

[GaryK]

How is that collet closer working for you? I miss using those in shop class at the CC.

Right now the "fingers" are sticking when I release the part, but I imagine that will go away as it gets broken in. I got THIS ONE cheap since it's for a lathe that they
no longer sell. They sell the MT5 to 5C adapter for about $50 alone, so I figured I would get the whole thing. Just made an adapter and drilled/tapped one hole to mount
it. It's defiantly not a Royal but it works good enough. If you are interested I could send you a drawing for the adapter I made, to save you some head scratchin'.

I'm also going to make a light weight hand wheel closer. I've already got the tubing and have threaded it to fit a collet.
I'm just waiting for a thrust bearing to get here so I can finish it.

Gary

 

[darkzero]

That's definitely a great deal! Thanks but I haven't seen a need for collets yet so I'm good.

 

[GaryK]

That's definitely a great deal! Thanks but I haven't seen a need for collets yet so I'm good.

Whats' "need" go to do with anything? )

 

[GaryK]

When I got my new lathe (even before I got it) I was looking for a KDK tool post. I have used them in the past
and thought they were real nice. Before I found one I was using the Aloris style that came with the lathe. It worked
great at doing what it was made for. It just didn't seem as refined and compact as the KDK.

That big handle always seems to get in the way and the height adjustment thing sticking up too far. Also the
big wrench needed to move it around. About the only advantage I can see is that it has two faces to mount your holder.

I love my KDK tool post. Nothing sticking out getting in the way. Instead of having two faces to mount the
holder it has the capability of holding more than one tool per holder. The one in the picture has a boring bar
and a cutoff tool mounted in one holder. You just rotate it end over end to use the other one.
The tool height is set independently for each tool.

Height adjustment is done with a set screw and moving the tool post around just takes an allen wrench.
Another advantage is that all the tool holders fit all the different sized tool posts (Except the very smallest)
For example this is a size 100, but I can use tool holders from a smaller 0 or larger 150 size series. The only
limiting factor is the center height above your compound.

The only bad thing is that KDK went under during the recession and the owner retiring.
The good thing is the Chinese are making compatible copies so they are still available for about
half the price.

Anyway I guess it's a personal thing and most people are happy with what they are used to, so don't
start flaming me about great the Aloris style is. This is after all just my opinion.

Gary

 

[darkzero]

I always thought those KDKs were cool. Never knew exactly how they worked so thanks for sharing. One of the lathes in shop class had one (I think it was on a HLV) but I never got a chance to use it.