Can I silver solder repair this crack

buffdan

buffdan

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I was bronze sleeving this bracket after I bored it our, BUT, I forgot to grind down some hard raised spots in the bore before I pushed the sleeve in, and I mis-measured the OD of the sleeve.. It was .004 larger than the bore.. I was aiming for .001... So 2 stupid mistakes.

This bracket Holds drive shaft for table power feed on a horizontal mill.

Anyway, now I have to repair this CI bracket before I re-sleeve it with the proper OD sleeve.. I was thinking about silver soldering, then make the sleeve slightly under size, and JB welding it in place..
I am thinking brazing might warp this bracket..

The crack closes up when i clamp in vise.

Or just make a slightly undersized sleeve and JB welding, without silver soldering.

Any thoughts on this, or or other suggestions..

And it was going so well... :)

Thanks
Dan
 

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Me personally...I'd bevel that broken edge a braze it with silicon bronze. If you don't have a tig, Blue Demon make some brazing rods you can use a torch with them. (Blue Demon Triple Play I believe) How precision of a fit is that part?
 
It looks like cast, is that right? If so I would braze it and then ream or bore it for a new bushing which I would set in with sleeve retainer from Loctite or other.
My thoughts,
Aaron
 
if you can silver solder it, i would

i would be tempted to take bore skim cuts to restore some kind of concentricity.
then i'd be tempted to make a bushing , and lock the bushing in place with locktite
 
Thanks guys for the inputs.
I did bore it before attempting sleeving. and it was concentric and round.

I should have undersized the sleeve OD and loctited in place.. As AGCB97 indicated.. Lesson learned..

I have silver soldered some, only brazed once.. (not sure if I'm brave enough to braze.. :)

If silver soldering should I slightly grind out the crack, or expect the solder to flow into the crack ?
 
Silver solder is a lower melting point so I'd go that route for hopefully less distortion. Flux it and it should flow into the crack. I personally would feel more comfortable making a new piece. Make out of two pieces and bolt together from the bottom. IMO that would be the strongest and most reliable.
 
Cadillac said:
Silver solder is a lower melting point so I'd go that route for hopefully less distortion. Flux it and it should flow into the crack. I personally would feel more comfortable making a new piece. Make out of two pieces and bolt together from the bottom. IMO that would be the strongest and most reliable.
Click to expand...
That is plan B, make a new one.. Its not that complex.. I will try silver solder first, curious to see if that will work.. :)
 
If it were me I would vee grind the crack down to the last 1/8" or less ( preferably less ) at the bottom for a witness mark
I would then gently close it in the vice to close the remaining 1/8" or less witness mark and then after preheat to around 400 deg. and not smoking. braze it up and cover it with a welding blanket and let it cool slowly. Re bore and re sleeve.
I have done many jobs like this in my professional career and had great success ...........................YMMV..........................My $ .02
 
ok, so which braze should I get.. I have some old flux coated.. But the flux is probably deteriorated by now..

Thanks guys for all the inputs, I really appreciate it!
 
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