Choose between a Clausing 5400 , Taiwanese 12x36, or something else?

I have a similar Clausing (5418). Mine has a step pulley and no taper attachment, other than that it's the same lathe. As mentioned above, 2 1/4" x 8 tpi threaded spindle so care is needed when going into reverse. Also have a Grizzly G0709 14" x 40" lathe or a big brother to your 12 x 36.

I prefer the feel of the Clausing to my Grizzly. The carriage and compound move smoother.

If I had to chose between the Grizzly and Clausing, I'd take my Grizzly. No worries of spinning off the chuck with the D1-5 spindle. The gear head is nice for speed changes as my Clausing requires deep knee bends to change speeds (one you're looking at as variable speed). My model has a universal gear box, so turn one knob to switch between English and Metric threads. You'll probably need to swap around some change gears to flip between E/M with the 12 x 36, but you can do it. Clausing had a metric change gear kit, but they are extremely hard to find.

Bruce

p.s. If you have room, maybe buy both?
 
BGHansen said:
I have a similar Clausing (5418). Mine has a step pulley and no taper attachment, other than that it's the same lathe. As mentioned above, 2 1/4" x 8 tpi threaded spindle so care is needed when going into reverse. Also have a Grizzly G0709 14" x 40" lathe or a big brother to your 12 x 36.

I prefer the feel of the Clausing to my Grizzly. The carriage and compound move smoother.

If I had to chose between the Grizzly and Clausing, I'd take my Grizzly. No worries of spinning off the chuck with the D1-5 spindle. The gear head is nice for speed changes as my Clausing requires deep knee bends to change speeds (one you're looking at as variable speed). My model has a universal gear box, so turn one knob to switch between English and Metric threads. You'll probably need to swap around some change gears to flip between E/M with the 12 x 36, but you can do it. Clausing had a metric change gear kit, but they are extremely hard to find.

Bruce

p.s. If you have room, maybe buy both?
Click to expand...
Thanks!

The metric out of the box is nice on the Tida, but I'm going to fit an electronic lead screw eventually, so the gear train doesn't really matter.

I'm definitely leaning towards the Clausing.

With the threaded spindle, are there any accuracy issues when removing and replacing the chuck, i.e. when you re-attach it, are they still accurately centered? I'm not really sure when I'd want to run it in reverse, like even with left hand threads, with an electronic lead screw, you can still turn them with the lathe going in the forward direction.
 
Thanks guys, based on how I'm interpreting what seems like a consensus here, and the simplicity of the Clausing, I'm 99% leaning in the Clausing direction. However, looking at the pics, one thing seemed odd, check out the angle of this set screw. Wonder if its something to worry about. Suppose I can always make another pulley.
 

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Without putting a wrench on it there's really no telling but I doubt it came that way from the factory. Most likely somebody lost the original and replaced it with one that's too long and it got bent somehow. Will it be a problem I couldn't say, does it show what kind of work has been done to it in the past? Who knows....

If you can find somebody to check it out for you before you buy you will be miles ahead IMHO.

John
 
From this picture it kind of looks like the set screw hole is bored at an angle:

pulley.jpg

Perhaps ask over in the Clausing forum, someone with a similar model may be able to confirm
 
AndySomogyi said:
Thanks!

The metric out of the box is nice on the Tida, but I'm going to fit an electronic lead screw eventually, so the gear train doesn't really matter.

I'm definitely leaning towards the Clausing.

With the threaded spindle, are there any accuracy issues when removing and replacing the chuck, i.e. when you re-attach it, are they still accurately centered? I'm not really sure when I'd want to run it in reverse, like even with left hand threads, with an electronic lead screw, you can still turn them with the lathe going in the forward direction.
Click to expand...
No issues with accuracy removing and replacing the chuck. I run my Grizzly in reverse when doing metric threading. Stop the motor, crank the cross slide back, leave the half nut engaged, reverse the motor to the starting point and continue.

You'll really like the Clausing lathe if you go that route. Mine was originally purchased by my dad direct from the factory in Kalamazoo when he was putting together the shop for Waverly High School in Lansing Michigan in around 1963. I picked it up in 1991 when they closed the shop.

Bruce
 
I'n not familiar with Clausing brand lathes, in fact I've never seen on, However I'm very happy with my Taiwan made lath it's 12 x 16 only a short one, but it was good from day one straight out of the box. 3 years later still glad i bought it. While I haven't done a lot of work I have pushed it with some heavy cuts almost to stall point no problems. Things i love

1. Separate feed shaft and lead screw is always a good idea.

2. Gap some people say they are too hard to realign, It's easy if, before you first remove it, drill and ream two holes for taper pins. then after you've finished the job with gap out make sure the gap and pocket are perfectly clean, replace gap piece and finger tighten bolts then insert taper pins tapping them into place. tighten bolts. Gap will be perfectly aligned. Some lathes are made with these pins, but many are not.

3. full gear head and geared drive to leadscrew and feed shaft are to my mind a great advantage, being Taiwan made it should have the 127 x 120 to the change gears for switching between imperial and metric.

4. Spares. There are so many manufacturers in Taiwan all building essentially the same range of machines many of their parts are interchangeable.
 
AndySomogyi said:
Thanks guys, based on how I'm interpreting what seems like a consensus here, and the simplicity of the Clausing, I'm 99% leaning in the Clausing direction. However, looking at the pics, one thing seemed odd, check out the angle of this set screw. Wonder if its something to worry about. Suppose I can always make another pulley.
Click to expand...
Mine is bored at an angle also. Mine has a headless set screw, 1/4" - 20. The hole is access for oiling the drive pulley which spins freely over the spindle shaft when in back gear. Naturally have to pull the bull gear pin to separate the bull gear (think that's the term) from the pulley. Then flip the back gear lever on the head stock to raise the back gear pair into mesh with the two spindle shaft gears on either side of the pulley.

The only thing I've changed on the stock Clausing was the graduated dial screw on the cross feed. The stock one is a straight-slotted set screw. So you have to adjust the micrometer dial using a screwdriver. I made a stainless steel one for the cross feed years ago with a larger knurled knob. One of these years I'll do the same for the compound micrometer dial.

Bruce



Headless set screw plugs an oil hole for the drive pulley
1571490369749.png

Yellow paint around the screw is a reminder for me. I pull the plug and fill with oil every time I use back gear on this lathe. Have to flip open the head stock cover to pull the bull pin, so easy to remember to oil it up. There is no relative movement between the pulley and spindle when in direct spindle mode, so not critical to oil it then.
1571490398425.png

1/4" - 20 screw backed out, clearly tapped at an angle
1571491387789.png

My micrometer dial locking screw. There's a brass nub under the screw to protect the cross feed shaft from burring
1571491598079.png

Stock Clausing adjusting screw on the compound. Need to use a blade screwdriver to change the setting
1571491622790.png
 
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