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Clausing 111/4800 spindle upgrade

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willthedancer

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#1
Time to get a divorce from the crappy threaded spindle nose. Never been a fan.

D1-3 camlock coming right up!

Material is 4150FM quenched and tempered.



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willthedancer

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#4
junk.jpg
 
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wa5cab

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#5
That looks about like the pile of shavings I generated a few weeks ago. Except that my pile was 4130. :cautious:
 

willthedancer

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#6
Needed a dog to do some work between centers.

It's ugly, but once I'm done with it, it's junk.



IMG_20170302_065327123.jpg

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willthedancer

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#7
The ugly dog worked well. Turned and threaded. I left a couple or three on the fits.

Now we get down to the sticky bit. A first year apprentice could get this far.

I have to massage out the sins created by my class three spindle bearings. 0.0003 run-out means 0.0006 variance in the fit. It probably will translate to about. 4 tenths out of round due to the tool radius.


IMG_20170302_171252858.jpg

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willthedancer

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#8
Yup. 4 tenths egged. Definitely not good enough for a spindle bearing fit.

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willthedancer

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#9
IMG_20170302_172101047.jpg



It's an ugly dog, but it was a good dog.

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willthedancer

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#10
Massaged with a stone. Polished with emery cloth. Massaged again with the stone. Polished with emery cloth. Size is good on both fits. Ready for keyways.

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fast freddie

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#11
I can't stand it anymore, please hurry
 

willthedancer

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#13
IMG_20170303_142110503.jpg IMG_20170303_145533135.jpg


Trial fit. Gotta make a shim for the adjustment nut. Looks good otherwise. Nice light interference on the bearings.

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willthedancer

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#14
IMG_20170306_110744454_HDR.jpg


Sometimes you just gotta bust out the ceramic inserts to get the finish you want.

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willthedancer

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#15
Setting that angle.

IMG_20170306_155314345.jpg IMG_20170306_155157786.jpg

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willthedancer

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#16
IMG_20170307_131345589.jpg

Ceramic is always a pleasure to use if you can.

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willthedancer

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#17
Oh, I'm using Kennametal K090. Insert is a TPG 322. Pretty old school. I'm sure the art has improved since.

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willthedancer

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#18
IMG_20170307_144031445_HDR.jpg

Time to pull it for milling. Gawd I hate putting the old one back. Hopefully it's the last time, (I always think that).

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willthedancer

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#19
IMG_20170307_171253984_HDR.jpg

Layout verified 3 ways.

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#20
I'm enjoying the post, Will. Thanks for sharing. Have to say you are re-defining brevity.
 

willthedancer

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#21
Thanks Mikey. I'm hoping that someone will get some benefit or inspiration.or maybe be entertained for a moment.

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willthedancer

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#22
So, I decided to do some layout on the register face before I pulled it.

I set up the nice sharp threading tool I used for the bearing retention thread, pointed it at the face. I applied layout dye. With some back lighting and magnification, I lined the point up with the 3 & 5/8 OD.
I put a good 1 inch travel indicator on the cross slide, zeroed the dial, and dialed down 0. 421. It was good to see that the machine's cross slide dial and the indicator agreed within a couple of tenths. I scratched the face at that point.
I checked the line's diameter two ways. I set up a pair of good 6" dividers with a Starett rule under magnification, and it matched the diameter. I got out a pair of new digital calipers and checked again. Looked good.

Laying out a bolt circle with 3 holes can be a pain. I went ahead and applied trig, and used the Pythagorean equation to get my chord length. (There is a table in Machinery's Handbook).
I marked a radial line, pricked it. I set my dividers under magnification, scratched two chord marks. I keep those dividers pretty sharp. By feel, I picked up one of the intersections, and scratched to the other unpricked mark. Checked under magnification, and bingo all 3 lines crossed together. I pricked both crossed lines.
Wish that happened every time...

Thanks for bearing with me..

Lastly before I yanked it out of the headstock, I used a small square to scribe tangent lines on the OD. Some very sticky locating to do there later.

I did this layout here/now because I will end up doing the milling work in the lathe. I don't have a way to grab and hang the dividing head waaaay back there to drill and bore the face of the new spindle. I am limited by the working envelope of what I have.

I'm still sorting out how I will drill and bore the cam holes. I think I have the way to locate them accurately.

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ewkearns

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#23
Nothing beats die maker buttons in a pinch.....
 

willthedancer

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#25
IMG_20170308_152029709.jpg

Setting up to do the drilling and boring. I feel like ****'s about to get real.

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ewkearns

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#26
Excellent! Now you have an excuse to buy some!
 

willthedancer

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#28
OK, so through the generosity of some nice people, I have a copy of the ISO standard, and now know exactly where to poke holes for the cams.
My inferred placement was 3 degrees off, and 0.020 too far from the register face. By turning the retention pins out one turn on the gage line, it worked. However, it did not feel right. I will massage the register face back a bit. Overall, I am pretty happy with the test fixture.

Here is the setup I used to precisely mark the spindle.

IMG_20170313_202318451_HDR.jpg IMG_20170313_202325803_HDR.jpg IMG_20170313_203313267.jpg

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willthedancer

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#29
Sorry to not be on top of this here. I've been a busy monkey.

It's In!

I had to make up a couple of sets of pins



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willthedancer

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#30
Those are two different fixtures to cut the radii.

Here was the setup to put the cam pockets and retaining holes in. It was tricky. Maybe the upper limit of my tooling.

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05c85c523676f1f0c1dd4a5069cc1d6e.jpg
 
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