Hey all! I purchased a Clausing 1670 Variable Speed drill Press last summer from an old welder. It was in well used shape, but ran and the price was right. It was obvious that it needed attention and I figured that replacing a few bearings and the belt might solve its noisiness and the runout in the chuck. I was half right...the spindle bearings are a bit noisy and needed replacement, however...when I took the spindle and quill assembly out to inspect and adjust the spindle bearing collar it was obvious that the spindle was straight, but that the chuck seemed out of whack. After adjusting the bearings and re-installing the assembly I tried to remove the chuck...after loosening the lock collar(Jacobs #33 taper) I found the collar would not break the grip of the taper....it took a lot to get it loose finally...I found that the previous owner had used a metal repair compound on the taper connection. So I will be calling Clausing in the morning to get a price on a new spindle and bearings. After looking at the option(s) for locking collar chucks I am thinking that instead of going back with the Jacobs taper it may be the smarter choice to use a #2 Morse taper as there seem to be lots of options there and I happen to have a jacobs Super chuck on the shelf with a #2 Morse taper arbor. I have found a used spindle (Jacobs 33) on ebay for probably what a new one will cost...so what does everyone think here...I would be very surprised if the spindle could be repaired, but maybe. Thanks
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Clausing 1670
- Thread starter Chopper1
- Start date
- Joined
- Jun 7, 2013
- Messages
- 10,087
maybe not. JB Weld is not a good substitute for real steel. A MT spindle increases the overall length of tooling, if it is a floor mounted unit, maybe that does not matter, I had one in my business with MT spindle, and it was a good thing when mounting a tapping head.
John,
thanks so much for responding. I hadn't thought about the added length...you have a good point. The DP is a floor model , but I am 6' 1" and would rather be closer to the work. So my next question would be...the stock spindle is a Jacobs #33 taper with a locking collar. Will this type of spindle accept #33 taper chucks without the locking collar? As I see it I have (3) options: attempt to clean up the current spindle and chuck assembly(haven't lost anything trying), replace the spindle with new or used and retain the stock style, or replace the spindle with a #2 MT. I do not like to buy junk and for this reason I am leery of soft metal chucks. The only locking collar chuck that I can find new is a Jacobs locking collar chuck from MSC and others...I believe this is of questionable quality and would frustrate me later...but maybe I'm wrong.
On a second note what is the preferable way to remove JB Weld...a heat gun, propane torch, etc?
Thanks again, all the best,
Chip
thanks so much for responding. I hadn't thought about the added length...you have a good point. The DP is a floor model , but I am 6' 1" and would rather be closer to the work. So my next question would be...the stock spindle is a Jacobs #33 taper with a locking collar. Will this type of spindle accept #33 taper chucks without the locking collar? As I see it I have (3) options: attempt to clean up the current spindle and chuck assembly(haven't lost anything trying), replace the spindle with new or used and retain the stock style, or replace the spindle with a #2 MT. I do not like to buy junk and for this reason I am leery of soft metal chucks. The only locking collar chuck that I can find new is a Jacobs locking collar chuck from MSC and others...I believe this is of questionable quality and would frustrate me later...but maybe I'm wrong.
On a second note what is the preferable way to remove JB Weld...a heat gun, propane torch, etc?
Thanks again, all the best,
Chip
- Joined
- Apr 30, 2015
- Messages
- 11,299
Chip: I believe paint remover (the old stuff with methyene chloride) will soften epoxy
-Mark
-Mark
disassembled the spindle/quill unit. I was able to use a heat gun to remove all of the JB Weld. It was at least 1/2" deep up inside the chuck taper. I will try to include a picture of the spindle...not going to hold out hope that it can be dressed as it is buggered pretty bad. I have an email in to Clausing to check on new pricing. My only query as before would be if I go back with the Jacobs #33 taper spindle can I use any chucks with that taper or will I need one which has a locking collar? Thanks, Chip
disassembled the spindle/quill unit. I was able to use a heat gun to remove all of the JB Weld. It was at least 1/2" deep up inside the chuck taper. I will try to include a picture of the spindle...not going to hold out hope that it can be dressed as it is buggered pretty bad. I have an email in to Clausing to check on new pricing. My only query as before would be if I go back with the Jacobs #33 taper spindle can I use any chucks with that taper or will I need one which has a locking collar? Thanks, Chip
- Joined
- Jun 7, 2013
- Messages
- 10,087
New spindle time! I seem to remember that there was a MT adapter that could take the place of the chuck.
new spindle on the way along with (5) new bearings and a belt...looking forward to a smooth running machine. I stuck with the Jacobs #33 taper, but will be trying a non-locking collar chuck. Currently looking at a Rohm, but am open to suggestions. Thanks again! I'll post pictures as I'm putting it all back together
Chip
Chip
New spindle, bearings installed. New belt, and cleaned up a bit. Much quieter operation. There is still some noise and vibration from the motor pulley sheaves. I decided to rebuild the assembly and replace the motor bearings as well. Motor done, waiting on plastic bushing for sheaves, ordered new keys too.
