Cleaning my new to me gauge pins holder FAIL

I don't want to drill all those holes, I was planning on re-using. I figure they are in excellent shape after 40 years.. the date on the catalog is 1979
so good enough for me.

I won't reslot the pins for a week or so to let the glue dry if I use white or yellow. I think the spray would be the best for the pins, no water in the spray, but the hardest to do. I wish I had rubber cement, but I don't and staples doesn't have it locally.

so it looks like white or yellow.
 
tonydi said:
How about something like plastic corrugated boards.
https://www.michaels.com/plastic-corrugated-board-by-creatology/M10567770.html

Cheap, sturdy, easy to make holes in and maybe easy to mark?
Click to expand...
I have a large sheet of that... $18 from Home Depot last year... I used to to scribe my vanity.
if you ever need to get an exact size, you cut strips off the corroplast , rough cut your corroplast to the opening, then hot glue the strips back on, and you get an exact copy of the cabinet... no issues... nice and tight...
 
I rarely use rattle cans. I had a matte nickel can of rustoleum, so perfect.. would prefer to have had hammered nickel, but I'll go with what I got.
evapo rust was not successful in converting the rust, so I wire brushed it off, then hit it with a flap wheel.

just dusting on coats.. I'll see how many it requires. No primer.. I'm not worried.

b4 wire and sanding
20211017_175511.jpg20211017_182204.jpg20211017_182213.jpg
 
If the inside came out as well as the outside, you couldn't do better new. I mean it looks new now, but better.

A thouht regarding the tape on the ends of the strips: If you covered the whole surface with clear packing tape, the strips over each end would be moot. Better still would be a sheet of "laminating" plastic, if you could find one large enough. And easier to keep clean, just wipe it down. Holes over 0.100 could be slit with a #10 blade. They would fold down and stick when you insert a pin. For the smaller ones, use an ice pick (is there still such a thing??) or a needle.

.
 
Clear coat rustolium is great stuff.

Grabbed some on sale for our meter panel project and it sprays nice and dries fast.

A few coats and you will be good.

Sent from my SM-G781V using Tapatalk
 
tq60 said:
Clear coat rustolium is great stuff.

Grabbed some on sale for our meter panel project and it sprays nice and dries fast.

A few coats and you will be good.

Sent from my SM-G781V using Tapatalk
Click to expand...
thanks, but not looking for a concours finish, just a useful protective finish.
Bill, I thought about that, but I don't want any gummy adhesive near the pins.
When ready to insert them back in, I'll be oiling each pin with 3 in 1 on a paper towel, and cleaning them using the 3 in 1.
Hopefully ready to go. I had thought about your advice before you gave it, and decided against it.. also it was a lot of work to slit each , or to remove a HOLE if I went that way. Since I'm a woodworker too, I took my moisture meter out, and am surprised that the moisture is low already.
maybe by tonight.. I am running a fan over it to get any moisture out of the styrofoam, because I had washed it.. and it appears to have worked, and helped the drying of the glue... but the glue is very thin strips.. so it should dry quickly.
 
Bi11Hudson said:
If the inside came out as well as the outside, you couldn't do better new. I mean it looks new now, but better.

A thouht regarding the tape on the ends of the strips: If you covered the whole surface with clear packing tape, the strips over each end would be moot. Better still would be a sheet of "laminating" plastic, if you could find one large enough. And easier to keep clean, just wipe it down. Holes over 0.100 could be slit with a #10 blade. They would fold down and stick when you insert a pin. For the smaller ones, use an ice pick (is there still such a thing??) or a needle.

.
Click to expand...
I used laminating plastic on the strips. Just covered the paper then cut the strips out.
read my response above to you included in #19
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top