Not since service packs were installed, sometime in late 2010 or early 2011. There is a learning curve, as they changed things up quite a bit, but it's much better once you get used to it. I would highly recommend it. Going back and using the old (2007) version was an exercise in frustration now that I'm used to the new version. I'm really disappointed that I'm getting the graphics issues on the home computer, and may have to spring for a new video card.
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Community Build Project Ideas.
- Thread starter pjf134
- Start date
- Joined
- Jun 17, 2011
- Messages
- 2,062
What do you think about having parts with tapped holes pilot drilled slightly smaller than tap drill size? Then the final assembler (new owner) could drill and tap to suit the available screws. Working on such a project internationally puts us in contact with a lot of different 'normal' sizes.
An alternative to that would be for whoever drills and taps a part ships the necessary screws with it.
SST, I was going to post a project last night, but my son came over so we could add a sliding shelf to his keyboard stand (he writes music). Time well spent. The project got posted this morning.
An alternative to that would be for whoever drills and taps a part ships the necessary screws with it.
SST, I was going to post a project last night, but my son came over so we could add a sliding shelf to his keyboard stand (he writes music). Time well spent. The project got posted this morning.
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Not sure who else is a swim away from you guys or whether you in metric of inferial in Canada. Standard UN taps, dies and fasteners are used as much, if not more here in Aus. The smaller stuff as mentioned above (2-56, 40-40 and 6-32) is still used in alot of computer equipment and readily available from fastener suppliers and electronics stores.
As i said, I'm only speaking for myself so others who aren't on the same chunk of dirt should probable chime in and put their thoughts forward.
At the end of the day, I'll roll with whatever flavour is picked
Jason
As i said, I'm only speaking for myself so others who aren't on the same chunk of dirt should probable chime in and put their thoughts forward.
At the end of the day, I'll roll with whatever flavour is picked
Jason
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- Joined
- Mar 24, 2011
- Messages
- 108
Hi all,
Having already built a SOSE based on the original plans, see http://hobby-machinist.com/index.php?topic=3084.0, I thought I would share some comments about difficulties and changes I made; I didn't stick to the dimensions on the plans if the available materials made it easier to work with slightly different ones, but that's not what I want to talk about.
1 - I think the most important change, the one that I think makes a real difference, is the cylinder pivot. I think that it is very difficult to ensure that it is perfectly perpendicular to the cylinder face if it is just screwed on, as for the plan. I decided to make it plain and just Loctite it perpendicular to the cylinder; I did this chucking the pivot in the drill press, with the cylinder in the vice, holding on to the drill press' handle for 60 sec.
2 - I also chose to use a collar, rather than a nut, to compress the spring, so that the pivot became just a 4 mm diameter cylinder.
3 - The cylinder head was also Loctited, because I think this makes a better seal than a bolted one; of course it cannot be removed, but why should I want to do that?
The following changes are merely cosmetic.
4 - The piston stem has non-uniform thickness because I wanted to test my ability to turn curves without a ball turning attachment; OK, I'll tell you how I did it. I have a Norman Patent tool post which I rotated by hand on it's post, then I finished the surface with sand paper.
5 - The frame has rounded sides, just to make it different.
6 - I later decided to make the spoked flywheel that is illustrated in the thread above. Since this has a larger diameter than the original, I had to file the spring collar opposite to the grub screw, to make room for the wheel.
7 - I made the main bearing with brass, because I couldn't find phosphor bronze, but I intend to replace it sometime in the future.
Last but not least, it is important to lap the cylinder and frame faces for them to match perfectly.
I hope you enjoy it as much as I did. ;0
José
Having already built a SOSE based on the original plans, see http://hobby-machinist.com/index.php?topic=3084.0, I thought I would share some comments about difficulties and changes I made; I didn't stick to the dimensions on the plans if the available materials made it easier to work with slightly different ones, but that's not what I want to talk about.
1 - I think the most important change, the one that I think makes a real difference, is the cylinder pivot. I think that it is very difficult to ensure that it is perfectly perpendicular to the cylinder face if it is just screwed on, as for the plan. I decided to make it plain and just Loctite it perpendicular to the cylinder; I did this chucking the pivot in the drill press, with the cylinder in the vice, holding on to the drill press' handle for 60 sec.
2 - I also chose to use a collar, rather than a nut, to compress the spring, so that the pivot became just a 4 mm diameter cylinder.
3 - The cylinder head was also Loctited, because I think this makes a better seal than a bolted one; of course it cannot be removed, but why should I want to do that?
The following changes are merely cosmetic.
4 - The piston stem has non-uniform thickness because I wanted to test my ability to turn curves without a ball turning attachment; OK, I'll tell you how I did it. I have a Norman Patent tool post which I rotated by hand on it's post, then I finished the surface with sand paper.
5 - The frame has rounded sides, just to make it different.
6 - I later decided to make the spoked flywheel that is illustrated in the thread above. Since this has a larger diameter than the original, I had to file the spring collar opposite to the grub screw, to make room for the wheel.
7 - I made the main bearing with brass, because I couldn't find phosphor bronze, but I intend to replace it sometime in the future.
Last but not least, it is important to lap the cylinder and frame faces for them to match perfectly.
I hope you enjoy it as much as I did. ;0
José
I like changes #1 and 2, but hesitated to make any on my own. If everyone agrees, I will change the plans to make it simpler. Is everyone okay with press fits?
Change #3 is okay, but takes away from some of the machining. Opinions? Maybe add a dish to the top to compensate?
Cosmetic only changes should be up to the person making the parts, I think. That way, if someone wants to get creative, they can. It might be a good idea to get group aproval if anything too drastic is proposed. For instance, someone may decide to cut the crank disk to give it a more traditional look and just a disc. Doesn't affect function (or not enough to matter), and makes it more personalized.
Change #3 is okay, but takes away from some of the machining. Opinions? Maybe add a dish to the top to compensate?
Cosmetic only changes should be up to the person making the parts, I think. That way, if someone wants to get creative, they can. It might be a good idea to get group aproval if anything too drastic is proposed. For instance, someone may decide to cut the crank disk to give it a more traditional look and just a disc. Doesn't affect function (or not enough to matter), and makes it more personalized.
Anyone?
1) Do we want to eliminate the holes in the cylinder & cover and make them press fit? Add anything for visual appeal or leave plain?
2) Do we want to eliminate the threads on the cylinder & pivot and make them press fit?
3) Do we want to eliminate the thumb knob & pivot threads and make it a collar?
Any of these are easy to incorporate, but I need to know so we are all on the same page.
1) Do we want to eliminate the holes in the cylinder & cover and make them press fit? Add anything for visual appeal or leave plain?
2) Do we want to eliminate the threads on the cylinder & pivot and make them press fit?
3) Do we want to eliminate the thumb knob & pivot threads and make it a collar?
Any of these are easy to incorporate, but I need to know so we are all on the same page.
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I believe we should leave as is. Bolted cover and pivot. Purely because parts are coming from all over to meet as one.
Setting tolerances for press fits with parts coming from us Hobby guys is going to cause assembly headaches.
Anyone else?
Setting tolerances for press fits with parts coming from us Hobby guys is going to cause assembly headaches.
Anyone else?
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Also, I see we have 13 votes now. Are there 13 people in the build, or are others just chiming in?
You should NOT be voting if you are not part of the build. I really don't care what someone else thinks we should build if they are not part of the process.
Turbinedoctor, you should make a list, and those participating can all voice our particular preferences. Quite frankly, if we are not building the engine, I have better uses of my time than to recreate drawings.
You should NOT be voting if you are not part of the build. I really don't care what someone else thinks we should build if they are not part of the process.
Turbinedoctor, you should make a list, and those participating can all voice our particular preferences. Quite frankly, if we are not building the engine, I have better uses of my time than to recreate drawings.
- Joined
- Mar 24, 2011
- Messages
- 108
This is the way to go! The participants list must be closed and only those listed should contribute to the decisions! I won't participate on this one, as you might have guessed, I only offered comments resulting from experience, and you are obviously quite welcome to completely ignore them or take them in consideration, as best suits you.
No worries! As they say on the opposite side of the globe!
José
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