Converting bandsaw from wood to metal/wood

GaryK

GaryK

In Memory
Rest In Peace
Joined
Dec 13, 2012
Messages
466
I currently have a 1hp motor on my bandsaw. I'm thinking of changing to a VFD so that I could use it with wood or metal.

Is this practical?

Would I use a 1hp 3ph or something different to get the same power either running it fast for wood or slow for metal?

Thanks
 
Most folks are using a reduction box to really gear the wheels down while still running the motor in the fat part of it's power curve. Last mod I saw like that he was running a 10:1 reduction set and just swapped the belt config to run the wood side faster. Never done it, so that is about all I can really say on it.
Bob
 
I have a PM 143 which is a metal cutting BS that has a high and low speed more so for the thickness of the metal,so a VFD would be perfect but.I would think that mixing wood and metal on one BS would contaminate the wood w/metal shavings.Not good--Kroll
 
The company I work for, when they were first starting out, converted a Craftsman bandsaw by adding a jackshaft and step pulleys. I can only assume it didn't work out, as they had bought a real one by the time I joined, four years later, and they sold me the Craftsman. I only use it for wood and plastic.
 
Bill Gruby said:
You will also have to change blades every time you go from wood to metal and back again. I wouldn't do it.

"Billy G"
Click to expand...

I have two bandsaws so that would be no problem. I was just looking for a metal cutting option. A horizontal bandsaw is nice but you can only make straight cuts
with it. With a variable speed vertical bandsaw would give me a lot more options for cutting odd shapes in different materials.

I figure it will probably be cheaper to convert the bandsaw versus buying a horizontal bandsaw, plus doing so would take up more floor space.

Gary
 
In that case it's probably worthwhile. The horizontal saw does have a big advantage though, that if the cut takes fifteen minutes, no problem, you just set it running and go do something else, and you're never tempted to force the cut to speed things up. I think it's safer too; you can slice off thin sections but your hands are nowhere near the blade. And the stock can be securely clamped.
 
My horizontal JET saw will adjust to 60 degree angles in the vise. Add the included attachment table, lift the head to vertical and you have a vertical although limited saw.

I purchased a 24" Delta at a school sale cheap because of the 5hp 3 ph motor. Slipped on a Allen Bradly VFD and fixed the problem including 1 to 3 ph conversion. Next, using the preset speed function I set 4 preset speeds via a selector switch so the employees could not get into too much trouble. Switch marked METAL High-Low------WOOD High-Low. Been ten years and no problems. We keep a metal blade in the saw and only change to a wood blade if we have a serious job of wood cutting to do. Keep it simple for the simple.
 
rdhem2 said:
My horizontal JET saw will adjust to 60 degree angles in the vise. Add the included attachment table, lift the head to vertical and you have a vertical although limited saw.

I purchased a 24" Delta at a school sale cheap because of the 5hp 3 ph motor. Slipped on a Allen Bradly VFD and fixed the problem including 1 to 3 ph conversion. Next, using the preset speed function I set 4 preset speeds via a selector switch so the employees could not get into too much trouble. Switch marked METAL High-Low------WOOD High-Low. Been ten years and no problems. We keep a metal blade in the saw and only change to a wood blade if we have a serious job of wood cutting to do. Keep it simple for the simple.
Click to expand...

What speeds did you use for the METAL High-Low?
 
I made an 18" bandsaw a few years ago and used a Tecumseh 5 speed gearbox combined with a selectable V-belt drive. Gives me 10 pretty evenly spaced speeds, ranging from about 90 fpm to 1400. A little slow on the top end, but I don't saw wood very much. I use 1/4" metal cutting blades for everything. Wood gets a 4 tpi blade, but only if it is thick or a long cut. 12 tpi works surprisingly well for most wood sawing. Blade guides are round ones, sold for use with wood.

The important message here is that even with mix/match of components, it works pretty good. I'm sure it could be better, but the idea of the saw is maximum flexibility, not optimum performance. Blade life is usually pretty short because I'm always doing goofy things that strip out the teeth. Maybe one day I'll learn all the ways to destroy a blade, then I'll be ready to die. Until then, I'm going strong!

Bill
 
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