Just replace the word "coolant" with **lubricant** and keep turning. Apply it manually as has already been stated to whatever you're working on and all is well.i have not been using coolant on my lathe because I am worried about rust. My shop is not climate controlled and humidity is always high in GA. Is there a way to run coolant without rusting becoming a problem in my situation?
Just add a small exhaust system behind the lathe.I have been using direct application even though my lathe has a coolant tank and pump. I've been using tap magic on ferrous metals but it smokes like a freight train.
I'm not sure where I got this idea, but it wasn't originally mine, to use Canola oil for a lubricant on ferrous metals. I mostly deal with aluminum and brass, butI have been using direct application even though my lathe has a coolant tank and pump. I've been using tap magic on ferrous metals but it smokes like a freight train.
I have worked in several machine shops that justI used to work in a shop that had a 15" Monarch lathe, which was a little piece of heaven, I might add. It had a built in coolant system and we just ran cutting oil in it. Never got rancid and kept everything oiled up nice, too.
It wasn't the ideal coolant for aluminum or anything like that, so we'd just leave the coolant pump shut off when working with non-ferrous materials.
I like that mixture 50/50 cutting oil and KeroseneI had a 4,000 square foot machine shop for nearly 40 years, sold it and retired; rust was not a problem in the good old days when coolants had amines in them to prevent breakdown and consequent rusting. The scare over nitrosamines forced the removal of amines; after reformulating, rust was a big problem, especially on machines that were used infrequently, where tramp oil would prevent the coolant from being aerated and breakdown occurred . I had a large surface grinder where this was a regular event, and I did try bubbling air into the sump without much success. I have a power hacksaw in my home shop where rust is a big problem, it cements the fine chips into a solid mass that takes a hammer and chisel to break up. My plan with it is to use a 50/50 mixture of cutting oil and kerosene, as recommended by the maker of the Marvel power hacksaw that is in my old shop. The kerosene transmits heat better than oil, the cut off parts are quite noticeably cooler than when the oil is concentrated. I plan to also use this on my Brown & Sharpe universal mill at home. On most of my machines at home I use TapFree in a tuna can with a brush, in my lathe, a Regal Leblond 19", I use a modern coolant concentrate that does not seem to have so much potential for rust as the previous ones that I have tried; oil, when used for roughing makes way too much smoke, which I imagine does not do good for our lungs.
I went and looked a used Clausing Horizontal bandsaw . It was so Gumed up with dry gummy waxyHello,
benmychree, like scwhite, I like the Kero mix idea. I've got the same problem on my bandsaw as well so have to clean it after every use, a real pain late at night. I also have the problem of the pump impellor sticking if I don't use it for a few weeks, more hassle when you just want to caut a small piece.
I use 50/50 Kero and Dextron III ATF as a penetrating fluid and it outperforms every thing else I have tried inclueding Kroil. Just bought a pail of stocktake clearance ISO 46 hydrualic oil,(same weight as Dextron), so will experiment with that as a mixer.
Thanks for sharing your experience.
I like manually applying cutting oil with a smallJust replace the word "coolant" with **lubricant** and keep turning. Apply it manually as has already been stated to whatever you're working on and all is well.
I should ask; Do you want to run coolant and why?
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