- Joined
- Sep 28, 2013
- Messages
- 4,319
the bit attached to the bell (round part, spindle of rotor goes through it) is the centrifugal switch, or at least the part that's attached to the motor casing and not the rotor - you'll see the corresponding spring loaded parts on the correct end of the rotor spindle. That's connected to the start windings.
2A looks like it's the end of one of the run windings. The way I would test this is to twist/ splice together the ends of both run windings, wire it to 110V and spin the motor spindle. If it doesn't run, change one of the run windings round and try again. That will tell you what order they need to be in. For 110V, you wire them in parallel (as above), for 220V you wire the end of one to the start of the other. You can test this again with 220V if you have it available. Now you wire the hot line from the mains to the switch (neutral too, if there's a post available, but I don't think it's necessary if not) and one end of the run windings to the other side of the switch from the hot line. Other end of windings to the neutral line. Now you should have a rope start motor.
To get the induction starting working, you wire one end of the start windings to the same point as the hot end of the run winding and the other end to the neutral line. If the motor spins the wrong way, reverse the wiring of the start windings.
As for the reset switch, no idea. Is the line coming in from the hot line? In which case it may act as a splitter between the run and the start windings, so an overtemp would disconnect both from the mains. Try heating it with a hairdryer and see if it opens (no continuity).
I need to figure out something similar for a motor I have - it's induction start but only pull starts (ie. start windings aren't being engaged, although the centrifugal switch works fine), but only 2 wires in to the motor, so the start windings must be disconnected somewhere.