Crazy idea or not? End mill holder for WT 15in drill press

Sorry George, still working on the bearing plate for one of the leadscrews. Nearly finished it but got called away to dinner party with my wife's friends. Its slow work when your max doc is 0.2mm :) I did get the vintage saw dust cleaned off the collet chick though :D hopefully I'll be making some small test chips by this time next week!
 
I hope you saved he vintage saw dust. Anything vintage brings big money in a Pa. flea market. After going to them for 40 years,I have decided that people in Pa. never throw anything away.

Perhaps if I had signed the sawdust it would bring a lot more. Anything signed brings much more money,even if no one has any idea who the signee was!

But,I'm afraid those dear days are dead. Last year I made a pilgrimage to Kutztown and Adamstown and found hardly anything worth buying. Everything now is on Ebay,it seems.

One thing that really got a laugh from me was a vender who had several unrelated stamped sheet metal micrometer adjusting spanners. He represented them as a collection!! Talk about gilding the lilly!!:)
 
george wilson said:
I hope you saved he vintage saw dust. Anything vintage brings big money in a Pa. flea market. After going to them for 40 years,I have decided that people in Pa. never throw anything away.

Perhaps if I had signed the sawdust it would bring a lot more. Anything signed brings much more money,even if no one has any idea who the signee was!

But,I'm afraid those dear days are dead. Last year I made a pilgrimage to Kutztown and Adamstown and found hardly anything worth buying. Everything now is on Ebay,it seems.

One thing that really got a laugh from me was a vender who had several unrelated stamped sheet metal micrometer adjusting spanners. He represented them as a collection!! Talk about gilding the lilly!!:)
Click to expand...

I was thinking about giving the dust to my daughter so it'll then become an antique heirloom :) I'm not sure I count as much of a Pennsylvanian though, I haven't even killed something to eat it yet!

Making good progress on the vise, so getting slowly closer..

http://www.hobby-machinist.com/show...or-fettling-a-HF-X-Y-vise?p=181479#post181479
 
almost finished the vise, just have to bring it in to work to mill a little clearance for the top axis bearing plate

IMG_3271_zpsb3d7f067.jpg

George - my friend at work gave me a nice chunk of steel of some sort about 3 x 0.75in (all mine were too small a diameter) which I spent 10 to 15min heating last night with my MAPP torch. It changed colour some (sort of dark purplish/ brown) but I started getting too cold after a while. Did I get it hot enough to relieve any unknown stresses?

I'm planning on making a few different collets - 3/8, 3/16 and 1/8 as I just bought some new mini HSS end mills with 3/16 shank. I'm guessing there's no point trying to harden them, as I don't know what steel I have, right?
 
You need to heat it until it goes PAST blue and turns a gray color. I kept a can full of sand at my heat treating area years ago,when I was doing things by simple means. I'd point the MAPP gas torch down into the sand and get it good and hot. Then,heat a part till it was gray,and quickly bury it in the hot sand. Let it cool overnight slowly to anneal.

Why are you heating a piece of steel at all unless it was file hard? Tool steel comes annealed. You make your part,then harden and temper it.

For larger pieces of hardened tool steel,I have put pieces 12" x 3" x 1",3 or 4 of them into my wood stove well stoked with wood. Left it with just a little air to get in,so it would get real hot overnight. Let it fully cool in the morning. Worked real well at annealing my big hunks of steel.

Are you making collets for the adapter I sent you? I wouldn't bother hardening them. Nothing on that adapter is hardened anyway. I never bothered to harden and bushings or the like that I made back in my beginning to hold end mills. Just DO NOT make them out of brass. The end mills will pull right out,or slip to some degree. Use only steel for collets or bushings,and do not let oil get on them.
 
Hi George,

just taking your advice for working with mystery steel/ cold rolled steel that might spring or twist as it's cut. It's not hard in any sense as a file will happily mark it.

Yes this will be for making collets for the chuck you gave me and I was going to make a bunch of different sizes at the same time. I'll leave them as they are after I've finished them. I'm really looking forward to getting started as I have a couple of lights that I really want to make.
 
For making small round parts I wouldn't be concerned about the steel warping.
 
ok, thanks George. I'll get to this as soon as I've put my bike back together.
 
got started on the collets for the collet chuck, but boy is steel hard work on this lathe. 0.1mm at a time is the most I can take without frequent stalling, even using dark tapping fluid, so going from a 22mm shaft to a 16mm collet takes a loooooooong time.

here's my "lathe" with 6in caliper as a reference :)
IMG_3274_zpsc6d46254.jpg

and the shaft, with collet nut
IMG_3272_zps3e2973bd.jpg
IMG_3273_zpsfa27ad31.jpg

I'd turned down the minor diameter to fit inside the collet chuck, but I need to take a hair (well, quite a lot less than a hair) off to fit - it was 1am at this point and I thought it would be a good idea to get some sleep! That HSS bit seems to work the best. I have some 1/4in indexable carbide bits, but the HSS bit freshly stoned cuts a lot more cleanly and stalls a lot less. You can see the rotation of the compound handle in the finish even though it's a very smooth finish.
 
That is a nice little antique clock maker's size lathe. BUT,how do you cut threads with it?

Tighten up your compound's gibs a bit,if possible to get rid of the marks on the work left by the screw rotating.

You are perfectly right: HSS tools will cut more easily. I wouldn't even think about using carbide on it. Carbide isn't as sharp as HSS(except in special cases),and it takes more power to cut it.

You need to spray some belt traction spray on your little belt. Get it at an auto supply store. Be sure to spray it on BOTH sides of the belt evenly. It may slip like crazy until it dries. Then,it will grip like mad.

I use some stuff called "Beltraction". I'm sure they sell something to work on slipping automobile belts. Do you have a Tractor Supply near you?

If you can get nothing,take a lump of rosin and hold it against each side of the belt until it gets abraded into the belt. Violin rosin will do fine.

P.S.: I just noticed that your primary drive seems to be the large pulley resting against what looks like a rubber wheel on the motor. Very bad. You need to get a pulley for that motor,and a belt going to the large pulley. Then,you could get decent power. But,you'll have to reverse the direction of your motor. You can get some of that red colored link belt that can be assembled to fit whatever length belt you need.

What is the diameter of the motor's shaft?
 
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