Crocus cloth/emory paper WTH?

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Ned Ludd's bro
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It seems my shop is full of rabbit holes. I was trying to make a slip fit that was .747” ID and as I got close I thought now would be the perfect time to get out this cool set of L.O. Beard adjustable hones I picked up a couple of years ago. The set has 3/4”, 7/8” and 1”. I would have thought they would have been able to start under and adjust to something over each size. Unfortunately it seemed the 3/4” started at .750 and I don’t have a 3/4” adjustable reamer. Double drat. Triple drat that most of the refills I miraculously found local had the fine versions well used. With one on the 3/4” peeling on the end. I got to thinking how would I refurb the worn ones? They seem to be crocus cloth or emory paper wrapped over then with my goggles I realized the edges of the metal backing were crimped over.

I looked it up and the info I saw said you’d need to use epoxy to hold the new stuff to the metal backing. But it occurred to me the refills I put on my disk sander are just stuck on and they seem to stay out for years. I have some 3M sticky backed aluminum oxide paper. Maybe I don’t even have to bend down the little edges to hold sticky back paper once the old stuff is cleaned off? Anybody ever tried something similar?
 

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I made a post (I think here?) for a “Poor Man’s Hone;” if I can’t track it down I’ll post new photos.

Found it: Poor Man’s Hone This was in response to a question on how to clean up the holes in 1-2-3 blocks, But I have used these for none-critical holes of other sorts. You have to be careful not to bell mouth the hole, but if you keep the mandrel significantly smaller than the hole there will be minimal pressure from the abrasive cloth/paper on the hole surface.
 
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I made a post (I think here?) for a “Poor Man’s Hone;” if I can’t track it down I’ll post new photos.

Found it: Poor Man’s Hone This was in response to a question on how to clean up the holes in 1-2-3 blocks, But I have used these for none-critical holes of other sorts. You have to be careful not to bell mouth the hole, but if you keep the mandrel significantly smaller than the hole there will be minimal pressure from the abrasive cloth/paper on the hole surface.
I’ve had one of those PMH’s for decades. They are better than nothing but these Beard hones are the step right below stones in that they don’t bell mouth like the PM hone does because the shoes they slide on to. But it being emory paper/ crocus cloth it’s less durable than stones. These old Beard hones are actually better than the sprung small hones that I’ve had forever for doing brake cylinders. I guess the Beard hones were originally made for doing hydraulic cylinders. My kit was missing the instructions that were glued to the inside of the lid :( but there were some similar kits on eBay and I was able to read them. The items in the last pic were some sheetmetal spacers to extend the shoe travel and the others are actually diamond hones for finishing. I would never had known that without reading the instructions on the eBay kit.

Having so may of these shoes I guess I can do like I usually do and mess up the first couple of tries and find out if I can actually get the hang of it or not.
 
I wonder if something like 3M 90 spray adhesive applied to the crocus cloth and the shoes would work? The one downside is the heat generated and whether the 3M adhesive would tolerate it. Might be worth a try.
 
I wonder if something like 3M 90 spray adhesive applied to the crocus cloth and the shoes would work? The one downside is the heat generated and whether the 3M adhesive would tolerate it. Might be worth a try.
I thought about that before I did an online search but epoxy was the only adhesive mentioned because of the heat. I’ve not used spray on contact cement in at least a decade and we never used it somewhere that had to get hot so it’s a total unknown. Off the top of my head my problem with it is it’s a mess and the crocus cloth pieces are small and kinda finicky. And I’m certainly more clumsy than I used to be :(

Contact cement we used there was no adjustment. Where it touched it stayed. It is on the possible list though.
 
I thought about that before I did an online search but epoxy was the only adhesive mentioned because of the heat. I’ve not used spray on contact cement in at least a decade and we never used it somewhere that had to get hot so it’s a total unknown. Off the top of my head my problem with it is it’s a mess and the crocus cloth pieces are small and kinda finicky. And I’m certainly more clumsy than I used to be :(

Contact cement we used there was no adjustment. Where it touched it stayed. It is on the possible list though.
I would think that adhesive designed for attaching abrasive paper disks would stand up to the heat: although abrasive disks have a larger heatsink, the heat generated should be in proportion to the contact area.

How about something like this (also see attached brochure):

3M 316U Stikit.png
 

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I would think that adhesive designed for attaching abrasive paper disks would stand up to the heat: although abrasive disks have a larger heatsink, the heat generated should be in proportion to the contact area.

How about something like this (also see attached brochure):

View attachment 452908
Finally found my previous purchase of this on Amazon:

3M Stikit Red on Amazon.png
 
Good one ChazzC. What it reminded me was a I had a roll of 180 and a roll of 400 of this in a drawer I’d not been into in a couple years, DOH! So I have some test stuff I can try at least.

1688388937665.jpeg
 
Good one ChazzC. What it reminded me was a I had a roll of 180 and a roll of 400 of this in a drawer I’d not been into in a couple years, DOH! So I have some test stuff I can try at least.

View attachment 452912
The roll I have is also A-grade paper (I assume your A296 roll is also), which is thinner so it goes around corners easier.
 
yeah, that thickness of the stuff I have for my disk sander is pretty thick so I was thinking it would stick but not bend good. It should be interesting to try and refurb a set of the hones with the gold paper. I just hope the little tabs on the hone shells don't break off when I try to pry them up.
 
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