- Joined
- Feb 19, 2021
- Messages
- 19
Not to be a spoil sport, but you can buy a 6" dia, 12" length piece of ductile cast iron for $200 from McMaster-Carr, that's enough to make a riser plus a spacer to move the head away from the column further.
Not to be a spoil sport, but you can buy a 6" dia, 12" length piece of ductile cast iron for $200 from McMaster-Carr, that's enough to make a riser plus a spacer to move the head away from the column further.
I was curious about this as well, until I watched a Stefan Gotteswinter were he trammed in an RF25 clone using epoxy. I guess the conventional method is scraping in the base where the column bolts to it.I’m not familiar with that mill, but curious (nosy?). I don’t see any obvious (to me) adjustments for head nod and tilt in the pics. Does it have such adjustments like the Bridgeports that I’ve seen, or will you need to shim the risers or make other adjustments to tram it?
Also, will the surface friction between the riser layers be enough to keep them from moving relative to each other during heavy cuts and such? Are you sacrificing rigidity for space or will it have an insignificant effect?
Tom
Plus you'd be adding in 12 more mating surfaces that could add error rather than two with a solid riser. Quick and dirty is to use shims, proper way is to scrape both surfaces so that they not only match each other but are perpendicular to the axis of rotation. That way you won't have any error show back up when you rotate the head.I was curious about this as well, until I watched a Stefan Gotteswinter were he trammed in an RF25 clone using epoxy. I guess the conventional method is scraping in the base where the column bolts to it.
The spacer is a great idea, but if you can't get it trammed in pretty close, you can forget about using a fly cutter.
The problem with that design is you're sacrificing quite a bit of rigidity by using a 3" diameter pipe rather than a 6". Best design would be to use a riser of 6" (or more) in diameter with the bolts going from the turret to the column through the riser. That way you put the riser in compression and the bolts into tension, limiting how much each can flex.here's another way to do it, with dimensions:
Riser Block For a Grizzly G3103 Milling Machine - Shop Floor Talk
Riser Block For a Grizzly G3103 Milling Machine Machiningwww.shopfloortalk.com
I'll be making mine so that the bolts go all the way through into the t-nuts in the base. I have 4 or 5ft of allthread (M10x1.??) so that I can reuse both the t-nuts and the acorn nuts at the top. The allthread will be captured by the riser so it will rotate with the head.
I was curious about this as well, until I watched a Stefan Gotteswinter were he trammed in an RF25 clone using epoxy. I guess the conventional method is scraping in the base where the column bolts to it. The spacer is a great idea, but if you can't get it trammed in pretty close, you can forget about using a fly cutter.
Would just hate for you to spend all that money when you could do it a better, easier way, for about the same. Plus I thought those were the standard cast steel flanges.
The problem with that design is you're sacrificing quite a bit of rigidity by using a 3" diameter pipe rather than a 6". Best design would be to use a riser of 6" (or more) in diameter with the bolts going from the turret to the column through the riser. That way you put the riser in compression and the bolts into tension, limiting how much each can flex.