Do I need to use a special blade in the bandsaw for cutting metal?

After using a big old DoAll saw at the last place I worked I knew I needed some kind of metal cutting band saw. I converted an old HF 14” Delta knockoff wood cutting bandsaw. In contrast to that Craftsman is it’s all cast iron and the Delta 14” is the most popular bandsaw so parts are cheap and plentiful. I slowed mine form the usual 3,000ft to 120ft and a bimetallic 14tooth blade and I can’t live without mine. I used the motor mount from a defunct tablesaw with a double belt reduction. The pulleys were 14” swamp cooler pulleys so super cheap. I personally could not function without mine and I don’t do any woodworking either.
 
C-Bag how wide is your blade? My current blade is 1/4" and am thinking of going to a 3/8" or 1/2" wide blade.
 
C-Bag how wide is your blade? My current blade is 1/4" and am thinking of going to a 3/8" or 1/2" wide blade.
One of the upgrades I did was put a Carter ball bearing head on the saw and it seems to like 1/2” blade so that’s what I run.
 
That saw is probably not worth the effort to convert it to cut metal other than sheet metal or aluminum and brass. I picked up an old Dunlap a while back with the idea to convert it to cut metal. Mr. Pete has some videos on converting a wood bandsaw to cut metal. I ended up getting a 30:1 speed reducer off of Ebay for around $50. Install on the Dunlap was not hard. SFPM is now in the range for cutting metal. My 3x6 has a 13tpi blade that works well on metal so I got a 13tpi blade for the Dunlap. I don't know if I have damaged the blade or didn't get the right type but it doesn't cut metal other than sheet metal, aluminum and brass. I am thinking about getting another blade to see if that makes a difference. If not I will convert it back to wood cutting.
For thicker chunks than sheet, consider fewer TPI like 8 or 10, or maybe one of those "variable" types in M42. I think if you have 3 or 4 teeth at least in contact for the thickness of what you are cutting, that is enough, but too many fine teeth may not have the clearance between the teeth to move out the chips, and so they clog. 13TPI may be OK for say 1/2". Perhaps use something coarser for thicker steel.
 
The rule of thumb practiced where I worked ( and recommended by the blade manufacturers) was always a minimum of 3 teeth in the material and a maximum of 24. I can’t say I’ve always adhered to that rule but if you do your blades will probably wear out before they break or lose a tooth
 
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