Do you have a question on rebuilding I could help you with?

I'd be happy to host a class at my shop in Austin Texas, either late this year or sometime next year. Whatever works best for everyone.
 
I could do one in December a weekday or weekend class. Or another 2020 date. I am going to cut back next year on the classes as my wife and I plan on traveling more next year. She is retiring the end of Jan. Bourn & Koch in Rockford IL decided on a class this August. 19- 23. I plan on starting a new thread next week when I return from the class I am teaching in VT now.
 
Richard,
I just posted this on the Questions thread.
Picked up this 1966 B&S fully auto 618 Micromaster.
It's in very good shape.
Just not sure how to get to the bijur fittings to replace them.
I have good lubrication in some spots but not in others.
Do No Harm!
I want to do this right from the get go.
Any help?
Please.
Thanks,
Jeff Anderson, Vacaville Class
 
Check the manual and look for the lubrication manifolds on the machine. You need to replace all the fittings and just not 1 or 5 . It's like replacing 1 spark plug if you get my drift. Also clean out the felt filter on the bottom of the pump. It looks ass backwards with the screens, but that's right. Look for loose connections and smashed copper tubes and leaky rubber hose. When removing the fittings I made up a hydraulic box wrench by taking a box wrench and slicing a slot with air grinder cut off wheel to slide over the tube. The metering units (jets) will loosen in manifold and not on the top sleeve nut and if your not careful you can twist the copper tubing. The special wrench comes in hand. hold the metering unit the use a end wrench or another special wrench to unscrew it. Might be smart to blow out the lines too...The metering units have an ----> arrow for flow direction and a number...I am guessing FJB 0 for low use areas' up to FJB 2 for more oil...make a sketch or print out the page in the manual and mark the page as you remove them. The tubing is 5/32 special size from BiJur. I would probably buy from Bijur and not some knock off made in china. LubeUSA in SC sells them, but be careful from Devcon...they are super expensive. When you install the new ones I sometime use some loc-tite Teflon white paste on the threads. a little dab will do you on threads. Be sure to turn them backwards to get the thread started. feel it fall into the thread and then carefully tighten them as the get cross threaded super easy. Rich http://vintagemachinery.org/pubs/2185/16566.pdf please share this in the regular forum as it should benefit them too. Thanks
 
That's the book. I have it.
I found #0 and #5 emitters for the block that's plugged.
Good point, change them all!!
John York seems to think I can access through the front panel, others say to remove the table.What do you think?
I have two filters, both have been cleaned and replaced (wool)
Rich, these ways are sweet! Very well made machine.
Thank you very much!
 
be a detective....the table uses a timing belt it looks like not a lead screw like the one dude says
the up and down uses a screw and the in and out plus a hyd. cylinder...I would guess the manifiolds are hidden but accessible... Yes B&S are super machines... I rebuilt several...the spindle head uses nylon pads instead of cast on cast. You might find the manifolds under covers when you crank the column back all the way. would be smart to clean under their too...as that's where all the grit goes. I see on the lube drawing it shows the metering unit flow number. larger the number the more you get.
 
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