Drill Press Clearance Problem

juiceclone said:
If going into thick cast, I'd think a smaller pilot hole would be needed though.
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The first post implies the OP is drilling into a piece of steel affixed to the anvil, rather than drilling directly into the anvil.

I think what you're describing is a drill guide or drill bushing-a hardened piece fo steel with a precision aligned and sized hole for the drill bit to pass through into the workpiece.
 
1. Drilling to steel affixed to anvil so lineup is perfect, and drilling into the anvil for which there will be allthread (HF anvil face is too soft for blacksmithing.

2. Idea for a holder came from my dremel drill press that holds dremel, similar to this: http://www.walmart.com/ip/15638688?...72575792&wl4=&wl5=pla&wl6=81426703369&veh=sem

3. PT Shram, do you have a photo or picture of the riser block? I'm thinking that you mean the top of the DP can be rotated so the quill is away from the base by either loosening the top set screws or unbolting the base and rotating it. Then, put blocks under the base and make a new base. Of course it would all need to be trued up so it's perpendicular to the work. Am I understanding this?
 
Looking at the pictures, the head is removable and the base is also. This leaves just the column. Swap it out for one the same diameter only say 4 inches longer. IMHO, I see no problems with this.

"Billy G"
 
SE18 said:
3. PT Shram, do you have a photo or picture of the riser block? I'm thinking that you mean the top of the DP can be rotated so the quill is away from the base by either loosening the top set screws or unbolting the base and rotating it. Then, put blocks under the base and make a new base. Of course it would all need to be trued up so it's perpendicular to the work. Am I understanding this?
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What I was suggesting was a piece of material that would go between the base of the drill press and the flange for the column to space the drill press head further away from the base plate.

One could either drill all the way through the riser block and use long bolts or all-thread, or one could cut clearance notches at both ends to allow th euse of bolts/stud & nuts, or something similar.

Bill Gruby said:
Looking at the pictures, the head is removable and the base is also. This leaves just the column. Swap it out for one the same diameter only say 4 inches longer. IMHO, I see no problems with this.

"Billy G"
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The problem is finding or building the column as it's a bastard size-or at least it was for me as I ended up having to turn down a piece of heavy wall tubing to do so.
 
Replacing the column means getting another column but will be more convenient in the long run. It may be very inconvenient in the short run. Spinning the base around 180 degrees and blocking up the base just requires the blocks and some threaded rods or long bolts. You can also make a column to base adaptor for a 4 inch rise (male into the base clamp and female socket w/clamping bolt to receive column) but that will require material, a lathe, and likely a welder. You would probably have to remove it to use the original movable table. Only you can decide what's best for you.
 
John Hasler said:
I thought the mindset was "Never buy what you can make even if it will take all winter and cost twice as much."
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And I too felt that way until I bought my tool truck and realized how much time I'd wasted (and money I hadn't earned) by running around to find the stock to make tools when I should have called the Anti-Christ (the name my wife applied to my old Snap-On man who doesn't deserve it because it's because of him that I bought into the best tool company on the planet).

I've learned that when it comes to tools, if it is available to be bought, it is freqeuntly much preferable to buy rather than build and worse yet, I've found that this applies well to many of my truck building activities.
 
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I like to toy with things, but then when they don't turn out well, i wish i hadn't. but it's a hobby and no production pressures so as long as i'm having fun i'm happy
 
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