Drill press setup/jig for indexing previously drilled stock

Thanks. Now that you say the rails come out that makes it simple. Already have a design that should work. Just have to reduce it a whole lot. Since you are doing the pieces outside, then you could do it in an area of about 8" front to back and twice the length, Correct? How high do you want to position the pieces over the drilling table? 6" enough? Dou you have any problems with new piece being straight.? I designed a push pull to take out any bow.
 
If I'm reading you right, you could space say 4" between old and new piece. It would stay fixed no matter the brand, maybe just change the holder blocks. That way you would only have to line up the new piece for hole to be in center. The frame would be already be in line with spindle, Then you would have to tweek it at the ends so the holes are lined up in center of piece. Then you would just slide and drill.
 
Whatever design you decide on, don't use structural aluminum from the home improvement store. It tends to be very soft and gummy and is
frustrating to work with. It's also overpriced.
Find a metal distributor on Long Island and get some 6061 it's much easier to work with and strong. 2024 is even lighter and also good. (used for aircraft structural members)
Available in angle, plate, rounds- anything you want
 
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Aha, I think we are on the same page!! :))

Yes, for these rails they could be 1" apart or 6". Some other things I'd use this for are wider.

Holders that I have envisioned could be a piece of 1/2 or 3/4 MDF with a shallow rout with a round nose bit to allow the bottom of the rails to sit securely (for the steinway rails). The simplest version of my vision is a fence set up with teflon powder between the bottom of the MDF rail holder and the 7' long drill press table top. A big step up would be something on roller bearings.

Very interested in what you have in mind :))
 
Do the hole's position vary front to back on the rail or is it just side to side? I'm thinking a simple guide with a pair of toggle clamps and the aforementioned locating pin (which you may or may not need a lathe to make)
-M
 
I mean, anything above a locating pin is a win in my book. Plus I assumed that these types of things already exists but I do not have the language to search for them. They never vary front to back or if they do, its one piece of wood with multiple rows and then the fence just moves.
 
This would be a 6' x 8" x 3/8" 6061 plate riding on roller bearings on top and sides of 1" square 6061 frame with all sorts of cross bracing and stiffeners. There are vertical stands that elevate the two pieces up a couple of inches. The hole positioner is centered on the spindle but moves in and out 1/4" to account for old pieces. The positioner moves up and down as much as you want. I'm thinking an 1-1/2" range should cover the different makes. I am drawing this up off of the 1 foot clamp in your picture. When you see it, you will have to layout the pieces and adapt things. You didn't say if you have access to a mill and lathe. You can buy seamless tubing or remove the weld so the lathe is not as important as a mill. I wouldn't want to drill and file this much in the plate, but it is doable. The good part is that is based on a local supplier, you can probably get all the materials for around $150. Bad part is this will take a couple of days,and I would recommend tack welding the frame once it is perfect.

Just got your latest answer. In your case you shouldn't have to move anything. Only if your MDF blocks and pieces are different diameter, then a simple movement of the radial drill will suffice.
 
markba633csi said:
Is that whole structure made out of brass? Holy cow no wonder those things are so expensive
So, yes you could build a jig with a locating pin but it would need to be very rigid and accurate. In a perfect world you would have a machine-vision hole locator and a gigantic motorized X/Y table and drill rig to do this but the cost would be insane and would weigh a ton.
I think a strong light weight jig made of aluminum with a simple pin mechanism would work fine.
-M
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No not all made out of brass. The skinny tubes running length wise are hardwood dowel with a brass sheath. The spaced brackets can be made out of brass, or cast iron, or pot metal or any number of various metals used over the years. Frequently they are not brass but are painted with gold paint.
 
I'm guessing the all brass systems are deemed to sound better and would be more highly sought after?
Piano restoration must be very labor-intensive
 
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