Drill Press Table Rigidity

[BarnyardEngineering]

Has anybody done anything to improve the rigidity of a drill press table?

The table on my 16-speed floor standing drill press is pretty flexible. Even with sharp drill bits holes come out a couple degrees off 90, worse if the part is heavy. I can't come even close to accurate cross-drilling a piece of square tube, for example. It goes on one side and comes out the other 1/8" in some direction.

Clearly the correct answer is "buy a mill" but are there some incorrect answers?

 

[coolidge]

I jammed a piece of wood between the table and base on my old bench drill press it was 10x more rigid. For a floor drill press I might pair a big long travel hydraulic jack like they use on engine hoists with a steel pipe and a couple brackets. That will give you adjustability and rock solid support under the table.

 

[brino]

First the easy stuff.....
Is it flex in the table support or sag due to the table clamp loose on the column?
Does your table clamp on the column lock sufficiently? I notice on mine that when tightening the column clamp the outer edge of the table lifts as it removes the droop.

Is the angle of the drilled hole always away from the column? Is it possible that your table has a side-to-side angle adjustment that is not fully tightened?

As for increasing rigidity, it depends on what you got and how much time/money you want to spend.
Coolidge's long-travel jacks would be a very sturdy option.

You could also simple use a high-lift type jack if you have one handy. Maybe with some blocking to adjust between "steps".

I have never tried it, but perhaps a table support using some of those those pipe-clamp heads that work on plain old 1/2" or 3/4" iron pipe? I initially picture using two of the sliding jaws (without the adjustment crank) on a piece of pipe both facing out (like a spreader). One on the floor or drill-press base, the other supporting the table. Of course it would be even nicer to be able to incorporate one of the screw adjustable jaws, but they are configured to go on the end of the pipe. However, one could probably bodge something together.

-brino

 

[coolidge]

Or buy a mill.

 

[Bill Gruby]

Buy one of those Floor Jacks the carpenters use. Shorten it as needed and put it between the base and bottom center of the table. They are adjustable in length.

"Billy G"

 

[Wobbles]

I was surprised the first time I looked under a drill press table to see to see the various features built into the table to help square the table up. My Delta has a pin that slides in a close fitting hole every 90 degrees. Your machine may have the same holes, but be missing the alignment pin.

 

[BarnyardEngineering]

What I'm experiencing appears to me to be table flex.

It is a very simple, cheap drill press. The only adjustment on the tale is side tilt angle, which is adjusted to be perpendicular to the spindle and is tight.

The table itself is clamped tightly to the column, but I can push down on the table by hand and see/feel it flex.

 

[RJSakowski]

Here is what i would do.

Purchase appropriate lengths of Sch. 40 black pipe nipples, a 3/4" pipe coupling, a 3/4" pipe flange. some 3/4" threaded rod, and a 3/4" nut.
Cut one end off a nipple and weld the 3/4" nut on the end. Cut the 3/4" threaded rod to an appropriate length and turn one end down to accommodate a pivot plate. Make a pivot plate to work against the bottom of your table. Drill a cross hole to accommodate the Tee bar for adjustment. The length of the nipple, threaded rod will depend upon to drill press dimensions but probably something on the order of 8 -10 inches. For additional length, screw on the coupling(s) and thread on appropriate nipples, terminating in the pipe flange. You now have an adjustable jack which will allow you to vary your table height to suit your jobs. The flange could be permanently mounted to the drill press base or to a larger wood plate for stability and ease of adjustment.

Bob