Move table to allow clamping to table but work a long side.
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Drilling/Tapping Long Part
- Thread starter devils4ever
- Start date
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- May 13, 2019
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My DP table doesn't tilt, but an angle plate bolted to it should work.
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- Sep 24, 2020
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Does the table rotate?
You could clamp to the side of the table.
- Joined
- May 13, 2019
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No, it doesn't rotate.
If you have a metal rod, try it first. The rigidity is very important. I don't have a good accuracy experience with center punch. It is good, but not for precision. Usually, indicator and center drill bit helps alot. As the other suggested, make an adapter to help centering is very good if doable and not too hard.
That said, 3/8 is very easy to drill and tap with good bit and tap.
For precision, another option is to use two different processes. A locating pin or locating ring can be designed separately from that of the threaded bolt. A separate design doesn't mean separate locations.
Also, as other said, find people in your area, using facebook for example, to help you make this thing, which becomes very simple if you have a bigger lathe.
That said, 3/8 is very easy to drill and tap with good bit and tap.
For precision, another option is to use two different processes. A locating pin or locating ring can be designed separately from that of the threaded bolt. A separate design doesn't mean separate locations.
Also, as other said, find people in your area, using facebook for example, to help you make this thing, which becomes very simple if you have a bigger lathe.
Last edited:
- Joined
- May 13, 2019
- Messages
- 1,016
Success!
I used the technique suggested by tq60. I made my guide out of 3-1/8" Aluminum round stock 1" thick and took out the center which fit the 1" X 1-1/2" steel bar perfectly. I drilled a 0.201" pilot hole in the center. I changed my design to use a 1/4-20 bolt instead of the 3/8-16 bolt originally planned.
Instead of placing the bar on the side of the table, I placed it on the table and used a large ground angle plate (9" X 7" X 6"). I know this isn't ideal with it sticking up so much, but it seemed plenty rigid. I used a bottle jack under the drill press to keep the height of the table constant as I swung it around to align with the drill bit. The slots in the angle plate allowed final alignment.
I haven't measured it, but the hole seems centered and matches the mating part perfectly!
I used the technique suggested by tq60. I made my guide out of 3-1/8" Aluminum round stock 1" thick and took out the center which fit the 1" X 1-1/2" steel bar perfectly. I drilled a 0.201" pilot hole in the center. I changed my design to use a 1/4-20 bolt instead of the 3/8-16 bolt originally planned.
Instead of placing the bar on the side of the table, I placed it on the table and used a large ground angle plate (9" X 7" X 6"). I know this isn't ideal with it sticking up so much, but it seemed plenty rigid. I used a bottle jack under the drill press to keep the height of the table constant as I swung it around to align with the drill bit. The slots in the angle plate allowed final alignment.
I haven't measured it, but the hole seems centered and matches the mating part perfectly!
