Electrolysis question and discovery

MontanaLon

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So, I have been playing with some rusty stuff and electricity. I have followed the many online sources of tips and tried my hand at electrolysis.

Little battery charger and a bucket and some washing soda and I made bubbles. I actually removed a bit of rust along the way, it just seemed really slow. For a sacrificial metal I used a rebar fence post. It was handy and didn't need it elsewhere. It was cool to watch the crud flow away from the tool and end up depositing on the fence post. But it seemed to get gunked up really fast and then the reaction slowed to a crawl. I'd have to pull it out and scrape the crud off and then it would get back to bubbling vigorously. Seems the reaction depends on having surface area not coated with the gunk from the reaction.

So I started looking for other sacrificial metal bits to use. And I couldn't find anything at first. But first the question.

You can't use stainless as the sacrificial piece because the chromium breaks down and you get poison stuff. But does that apply to using electrolysis to clean rust off chrome plated tools? I have some old open end wrenches that are chrome plated and rusty, does the chromium in the plating cause the same problem as on the other end of the process? I can't find info on that.

And then the discovery. What is cheap and steel, has a lot of surface area and everyone has some? Rebar tie wire. I tried it by looping it up and down the side of the bucket. That got me a vigorous reaction that stayed strong. Until the wire broke from being eaten away. It was about then I realized the whole surface area part didn't have to be in a continuous path, as long as there was metal not coated with gunk in contact with the water, the electricity would find it and do its' thing. So I cut some pieces of tie wire about 2 feet long, bent them double and then used another piece of wire to bind them together. It looks like an old fashioned broom. Clip the battery charger to it and hang it in the bucket partially submerged. When the gunk builds up, a quick swish gets things rolling again. When the wire breaks down, it will fall away into the bucket and then you just submerge it a little deeper for the next session.
 
Even better, multiple anodes spaced around the work piece. The process works better and faster with a line of sight interaction between work and anode(s).
 
if you really want to keep the reaction working, use a carbon anode
I don't have any carbon anodes laying around, but I do have a busted carbon fiber fishing pole. Hmmm, I know that thing will conduct electricity, the electric fence told me so. Actually, that was how it got broke, seems they can't handle a full grown man flopping around like a carp.
 
I use pieces of sheet steel on all sides of the container and it works fine. Surface area counts and the larger the piece being de-rusted, the larger the sacrificial anodes should be if you don't want the process to take forever. I've done entire vises, anvils, lawn mower chassis and the like and had no problems de-rusting them. It can take several hours to overnight, depending on the size, but I have been using the same pieces of sheet steel for the last decade and they're still going strong. I have to wash and wire brush the rust off after I'm done de-rusting something and then I coat it with some oil until next time. Then I just wash off the oil with Dawn, slap them back in the tank and proceed.
 
I have had good results placing several pieces of rebar around the inside, top and bottom. Built a wood box out of landscape timber and lined it with a shower curtain. I buy my sodium carbonate/Jacquard Soda Ash 1 Pound from Amazon.
 
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Maybe getting hard to find, but a metal five gallon bucket works great. Used a 55 gallon drum once too.
 
Don't use the chrome wrenches, unless all the chrome is gone- same problem, toxic stuff
 
I buy my sodium carbonate/Jacquard Soda Ash 1 Pound from Amazon.
Sodium carbonate is often sold in grocery stores and big box stores as "washing soda." Look in the laundry detergent isle. Here are some options:
https://www.bing.com/shop?q=washing+soda&FORM=SHOPPA&originIGUID=FCB391D05A0C4ADA9C161F8FBE083F33

Sodium carbonate can also be made easily from baking soda, I have made it:

Edit: Read the label carefully and understand it before using sodium carbonate. It is not really nasty stuff, but make sure to follow the instructions.
 
Derusting chrome plated tools should not create any chromium VI. The tool will be the cathode in the process which is reducing, not oxidizing. It's the whole basis for electrolytic derusting. Furthermore, it is unlikely that any chromium VI is created in any process of this type. The most likely ion created would be chromium III. Should any chromium VI be created, it would quickly be reduced by other reactants in the solution to chromium III.
In some experiments that I did last year, chromium VI was quickly reduced to chromium III in the presence of iron filings.

Chromium III is not harmful in small amounts. In fact, it is an essential nutrient in our diet with a MDR of 47 mg mcg.

edited to correct mg to mcg (see post #12 below)
 
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