Enco 100 has Stuck Chuck Collet

[poptops]

Happy New Year guys,


It's time to shout out for some help on this one.
My brother has an Enco model 100-1527 mill with a problem. It is fitted with an R-8 drill chuck which is stuck. The Chuck has been installed for perhaps 6 months continuously while doing light weight milling jobs like making a few aluminum panels. He mentioned that the chuck had previously been a little difficult to insert.
So far he has been stiking the drawbar with a 3 pound hammer and limited force as courage allows. And also tried a pickle fork below the spindle together with draw bar force. He keeps max thread engagement and no thread damage has been realized.
He has asked for me to come over and double up the brain power but I am reluctant to apply any more force without some consulting from the team.
What can you tell me about stuck collets?
- Dissassemble the mill? / Get a bigger hammer? / Something else beyond my realm?

Tnx, Poptops

 

[OldMachinist]

The little set screw that acts as a key for the slot in R8 tooling may have sheared and the arbor rotated seizing it in the taper. The Enco machine looks to be a clone of a Bridgeport so removing the set screw should be the same procedure. Mark the nose ring that screws on the bottom of the quill so you can tighten it back to the same location, loosen the set screw that hold the nose ring from turning. Remove the ring with a strap wrench, in the side of the spindle you'll see a small set screw. There are normally two in the hole one acts as jam screw to hold the next one the right depth. Remove both and then see if the drill chuck/arbor will come out like normal. If it still won't come out remove the drawbar and put some penetrating oil down the hole. Screw the drawbar back in and then back it out one or two turns, tap the drawbar to work the oil down the hole and let it sit for a while to work. Then smack it with a big hammer. If the set screw did jam it up in the taper you may have to drive it out the whole way.

Many people after having this happen to them never put the little set screws back in the spindle, its only there to hold a collet from spinning until its held by the taper with tightening the drawbar.

After the tool is out screw the nose ring back on to the marks and tighten the set screw.

 

[poptops]

Don, this has to be the answer!! I called bro. and he stopped crying immediately. I think this will convince him to join up with the H-M.
We will post back as soon as we can execute on your suggestion.

This was music (city) to our ears.

Thanks, Poptops
__________________________________

The little set screw that acts as a key for the slot in R8 tooling may have sheared and the arbor rotated seizing it in the taper. The Enco machine looks to be a clone of a Bridgeport so removing the set screw should be the same procedure. Mark the nose ring that screws on the bottom of the quill so you can tighten it back to the same location, loosen the set screw that hold the nose ring from turning. Remove the ring with a strap wrench, in the side of the spindle you'll see a small set screw. There are normally two in the hole one acts as jam screw to hold the next one the right depth. Remove both and then see if the drill chuck/arbor will come out like normal. If it still won't come out remove the drawbar and put some penetrating oil down the hole. Screw the drawbar back in and then back it out one or two turns, tap the drawbar to work the oil down the hole and let it sit for a while to work. Then smack it with a big hammer. If the set screw did jam it up in the taper you may have to drive it out the whole way.

Many people after having this happen to them never put the little set screws back in the spindle, its only there to hold a collet from spinning until its held by the taper with tightening the drawbar.

After the tool is out screw the nose ring back on to the marks and tighten the set screw.

 

[12bolts]

On my (not Enco, but very similar machine) when a chuck gets overtight and difficult to remove, (if it wont pop loose with a smart whack on the drawbar) then I have a couple of short pieces of angle iron, stand them on end on the table, either side of the chuck, with the quill fully retracted and the quill locked, crank the table up so that the top edge of the 2 angle irons support the quill around the chuck. Take a bit of weight, but no need to get carried away and jam the quill backwards :nono: and then once again a smart whack with a good sized hammer. Rarely need more than 1 or 2 blows with this solid support underneath.

Cheers Phil

 

[jimfred]

Is am the owner of the Mill with the (formerly) stuck collet. I took out the little screw and it looked like a tiny portion on the leading edge was sheared off. I also used Phil's suggestion to block the bottom of the quill. Two blows and it came out. I am going to leave the screw out. Thanks for your help guys.
Jim