End Mills for Max Productivity in 4140HT and harder steels

Loftfan

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I've been learning the art of maximizing productivity on a benchtop CNC converted mill. My mill is a PM-728-VT. It's not been without its challenges! I've junked lots of tooling. I've learned there is such a thing as an end mill that is too sharp (chatter, see photo). I've learned that I like high flute counts in my power-limited, stiffness limited milling machine.

What endmills (I'm working with 1/2" endmills here) have you found that work best for best material removal in steels between 30 HRc and 45 HRc in milling machines like ours?
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I'd think you'd have better luck with 1/4 and 3/8 end mills. They just take less rigidity to hold in place than bigger end mills.
 
I'd think you'd have better luck with 1/4 and 3/8 end mills. They just take less rigidity to hold in place than bigger end mills.
I might, but I wouldn't be able to take 1-1/4 deep cuts like I have to do to avoid having to align up the sides of the part. I'm not good at hitting 0.0005" tolerances yet .

This endmills is an example of being too sharp. This same tool uncoated, once broken in, performs great for me. Coated, the tool stays too sharp and bites into the steel too well. This chatter happened with a .625" aDOC, and 0.007" rDOC. I didn't think it was going to be very challenging. With this tool, I was wrong.
 
I too would recommend a 3/8" tool.

They cost a bit more, but reduced / relieved neck endmills are great. They let you get lots of reach, without needing long flute length which causes chatter and tool deflection. You can only cut as deep as the flutes in one pass, but you can cut deeper on the next pass as the reduced neck will not rub on the surface you just machined.

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If you do go this route, look to minimize flute length. This will maximize the stiffness and rigidity of the tool, avoiding chatter and allowing a wider radial depth of cut.
 
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I like the relieved neck idea, Mike. I can see how that could improve wall parallelism when that's important.

I'm not yet understanding why I would want a 3/8's tool when I can have a half inch tool, though. I'm not making the connection on how downsizing the diameter of an end mill improves material removal rate. Why would I take a step down in terms of tool stiffness?
 
You are beyond the capability of this machine with 1/2 EM and a long side cut. Its not too sharp an EM it too little rigidity for the requested task. Reduce DOC and tool diameter.
 
Hi Karl,

I'm fine with these parts, which were produced with a 1/2" EM in my machine. I'm just trying to optimize my tool choices to improve MRR.

This 1/2" EM at 1.25" aDOC and 0.005 rDOC should require 28.5lb of cutting force - not a lot to ask for a machine this size, it seems. Nevertheless, the tool chatters when new. After the edge wears (after the first part), I can increase to 0.015" rDOC without issue - a cutting force of 72.3lb. The difference is the condition of the tool in my mind.

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I like the relieved neck idea, Mike. I can see how that could improve wall parallelism when that's important.

I'm not yet understanding why I would want a 3/8's tool when I can have a half inch tool, though. I'm not making the connection on how downsizing the diameter of an end mill improves material removal rate. Why would I take a step down in terms of tool stiffness?
These are my opinions based on experience. Your mileage may vary.

There are a couple reasons why I would recommend 3/8" (or even smaller!)

1) Carbide is expensive and you are wearing the tool regardless of if you take a 2% radial depth of cut or a 75% radial depth of cut. If I'm going to snap or chip an endmill, I'd much rather do it on a 1/4" than a 1/2". I try to use the smallest tool possible, only sizing up when I have reached the maximum productivity of that tool (max chipload, tool deflection/rigidity, stepover, max spindle rpm, depth of cut, etc.). If you are only taking a 0.005" (1%) radial depth of cut, you are nowhere near the productivity of your 1/2" tool. If it were me, I'd much rather go down to a 0.25" or 0.375" endmill and take a 15-25% radial depth of cut at full flute length. You're removing much more material with a cheaper tool that can access more part features. The one disadvantage is that the max reach on tools decreases with diameter (due to rigidity). The reduced neck tooling above can help you reach deeper with a smaller tool before sizing up.

2) Theoretically the tool should take an even bite with every tooth, however real world effects like cutter runout, screw backlash, play in the ways, workholding stiffness, toolholding stiffness, etc. all can lead to unequal flute loading. This gets to be problematic when you are already at the tool maximum chip load capacity, or in your case when you are barely engaging the tool. If you have not accounted for the dramatic chip thinning effects at 1% radial engagement, then your actual chipload for this cutter is well within the realm of rubbing. When this happens, one or several teeth on the cutter may skip or rub on the part without taking a cut, then once enough stepover has been accumulated to engage a tooth properly, it digs in taking the sum of the cuts that all the preceding teeth should have taken. This dramatically increases cutting forces, introduces a shock load that can fracture the cutter edge, and creates vibrations and chatter. A smaller cutter more fully engaged in the part (>8%) will experience these effects far less.

3) A smaller tool can access more features in more parts. As long as your machine's maximum performance is less than the tool can handle, then this gives you the most flexibility.

4) Higher flute counts on an endmill give a thicker core in the cutting flue region. This means a stronger tool and decreases tool deflection and chatter. This may allow you to avoid sizing up a tool to the next diameter.

The counter arguments

1) Cutting forces (tangential) increase as tools get smaller with the same cutting parameters. However this change is not drastic and I personally believe is outweighed by the points above.

2) Smaller tools require higher spindle speeds. At some point your machine's spindle speed will become the limiting factor in the productivity of smaller tools. If this is the case, then you size up to the next tool (assuming your machine can handle it).


You very well may be correct about the dulled tool lasting longer. I remember reading a research paper about carbide inserts and their failure rates. Couldn't find the exact figures but the inserts followed a life span probability of failure looking something like this:

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The early failures were due in part to the edge being too sharp and lacking the appropriate fracture toughness for the material and cutting conditions they were machining. If early insert fracture was found, the recommendation was to select a tool with an edge hone (rounded cutting edge) which artificially "wears" the tool through the early part of the insert life into the "normal life" section of the graph. There are downsides of this as well but it may be necessary for tougher metals.

Purchasing a tool from a known quality supplier in an application specific carbide grade and geometry would likely help quite a bit. Endmills manufactured for steel machining will come with a less aggressive rake angle on the flute (stronger) and a duller edge than say an endmill made specifically for aluminum and non-ferrous.

In summary, I recommend using the smallest tool you can take full advantage of. This saves you money, increases flexibility of your machining setup, and increases the process stability (less risk of chatter and rubbing). Size up tools when your don't have enough spindle speed, or you need the tool rigidity of the thicker shank (special tool geometries, higher flute counts, and material specific endmills can help a lot in getting a sufficiently rigid tool without sizing up).

PS: in my 10 years of testing, my G0704 likes 1/4" endmills for steel and 3/8" for aluminum. I can go bigger but I actually lose MMR.
 
Update: I completed the mates to the parts pictured earlier in this thread with a 3/8 reduced neck endmill from Helical:

https://www.mscdirect.com/product/details/90810011

These were about $75-80 a piece, as compared to the $50/pc 1/2" endmills I was using from my local toolmaker, HTC in Fraser, MI. They are also a special direct-ship item from Helical in New England, so they take longer to arrive after ordering.

Total tool use for my 24 piece run was seven tools - one tool failed for unknown reasons and one tool was a victim of my error. Assuming I learn from that mistake, I could potentially do this run again at $20 tool cost per part [($80*6)/24pcs] for the main endmilling operations. There's around 2 hours of milling per part that uses this tool, for somewhere around 480 minutes per tool of life.

The good:
  • Helical's tooth profile is very good. I had none of the chattering-when-new issues I had with the HTC tools.
  • The above point permitted me to use AlTin coated tools, which brought tool life to a level very similar to the uncoated 1/2" tool that didn't require multiple depths of cut
  • While not quite as good a MRR as the 1/2" tool, I was able to take deeper radial DOC with this smaller tool (0.020" vs 0.012-0.015"). Maybe I can improve on that, but the cost per tool made me wary to be more aggressive this time.
  • Despite taking multiple axial DOC, the tool wear (AlTin coated) was acceptable. I'm glad for coatings!
  • The reduced neck permitted multiple axial depths of cut without rubbing.
  • An unanticipated benefit is that the chip control was much better. The shorter chips combined with the higher RPM combined to provide a nice self-clearing effect. This is worth productivity just from not having to babysit the mill with a blowgun in my hand. With my coolant mist setup, chip clearing isn't as good as it would be with high pressure flood cooling.
The bad:
  • While there wasn't any chatter-induced chipping of teeth, I did have one mill break for an unknown reason. It seems like periodically, a tool will bite extra hard when machining an outside corner, causing the tool to chatter. Whenever that happens, I have to rehome the machine and reset the part zero, as it causes my axis stepper motors to fault out. Sometimes the tool breaks (I had this happen to one tool). Sometimes the head is knocked out of tram. This happened more with the 1/2" tools, but I'd like to learn how to prevent this.
  • Reduced neck tools are a specialty item, and that costs money. Not everyone offers these tools, and there is less competition in this area.
Overall, I think I'll continue using this strategy. I like the improved chip clearing. If I would find an equivalent tool from another toolmaker for under $50, it would be a clear win.

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