ER40 Collets

I would definitely get a good quality 3 jaw chuck small enough that it will comfortably fit in the 4 Jaw, once you set that up running true you can use it all day. Also get to know the 4 jaw chuck over time it will be your best friend.
 
Re the 3 jaw chuck I have been well served by a 6'' Phase II version, it is a budget chuck that represents great value.
Bear in mind that tooling up now without having a clear notion of the work you will be doing is risky. You might end up with tools you don't use. Also, if later down the line you want to upgrade to a bigger lathe much of the tooling for your first lathe will probably not work on the new one.
At the hobby level we can take a few years to accumulate the tools we want. Often, it is rewarding in itself to use what we have to the limit and find ways to make do with what we have. Then it becomes more clear what our next tool addition should be.
 
T Bredehoft said:
I found an ER40 chuck mounted on an M2 taper with a draw bar to secure it in the spindle. I'm not sure which vendor it was but was one of the better known ones. This does, however, eliminate through-the-chuck feeding.
Click to expand...

I did this with an MT2 and drawbar using ER32 collets. It's affordable and works a treat, but you can't pass through the head stock... but that's not much of an issue for me, really. I use collets for small parts. If you go this route, I recommend getting a ball bearing nut for the collet holder. It'll cut cinching runout significantly.
 
Downunder Bob said:
I would definitely get a good quality 3 jaw chuck small enough that it will comfortably fit in the 4 Jaw, once you set that up running true you can use it all day. Also get to know the 4 jaw chuck over time it will be your best friend.
Click to expand...
Never thought of that, that a good idea! I imaging you could do the same thing for small stock with a Jacobs Chuck mounted on a straight bar in the four jaw.
 
Along the topic of MT2 to collet adaptors, if one wasn’t drilled for a draw bar is there any reason you couldn’t add one?
 
I have the 618 with my main go to chuck a 4 jaw independent. As you mentioned, you can get used to centring it fairly quickly. If you haven't made a second key for it, I highly recommend doing that, since it speeds up centring big time.

I also have a Jacobs 56B headstock chuck which is fairly accurate for work up to about 0.5" diameter and it allows passing through the spindle.

For smaller and more accurate work (I repair old clocks) I use MT2 to ER11 collets with a drawbar I made myself. To accommodate long thin workpieces you can drill a hole in the centre of the draw bar. The collet holder is threaded for M10.

I also have the same set up with ER-25 collets. Which again select for accuracy and for applications where I run the lathe in reverse and don't want to chance the screw on chucks coming off.

David
 
Basic lathe tooling includes: 3 jaw chuck, 4 jaw chuck, tool holders, Jacobs chuck and centers for the tailstock, follow rest and steady rest, in addition to the “correct” collets w/drawbar.

Getting any of these to complement a quality lathe is probably a good idea if the price is right. Decent quality import items that are serviceable are just fine and has been stated already waiting for a deal if you don’t need it right away is okay too

It’s nice to have these because finding them when needed in the middle of a job could be a pain. When you move on or up proper tooling will definitely help with getting your asking price and the new owner will be happy to have a “complete” tool.

My lathe is over a hundred years old and I doubt I’ll be the last one working on it. As time goes on and pieces for these machines get more scarce the ones someone cared for enough to collect all the parts will be treasured even more.

John
 
I have been keeping my eye out for a 56B Jacobs chuck, seems like a useful item to have. (Anyone have one they want to sell?)

I had not thought of the idea of using a MT2 with a drawbar allowing the lathe to run in reverse. I have the motor wired with a drum switch so I can run it either way. What operations would you do where the motor running in reverse is necessary?
 
The main reason I run the lathe in reverse is when using my tool post grinder from behind. Now the cutting loads are very small, so that shouldn't cause a chuck to unscrew. Also I think I did it when cutting metric threads on my Atlas 618. The main thing perhaps is the inertia for a large chuck when started. If I had to do this I would disengage the counter shaft tension, start the motor and engage the counter shaft tension sort of like a clutch.

David
 
I once wanted the Jacobs chuck that would screw onto the spindle of my lathe. They are rare and costly - like $100 on eBay. I never did get one, and in hindsight, I have not ever needed one. The 3-jaw, 4-jaw and collet chuck do all I need.
 
Last edited:
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top