Extracting R8 Stuff

[epanzella]

I just got a HF Round Column Mill that came with an 3 inch R8 face mill. When I push it out of the taper I keep loosening the draw bar and tapping it with a hammer. The taper never seems to release and even after I run out of threads I still can't remove the face mill by hand. It wedges out easy enough by using a piece of wood as a lever but it seems to me it should drop out after being lowered even a quarter inch. This thing is still hanging up after being pushed about an inch. I'm new to all thing R8.

 

[JimDawson]

Sounds like it is hanging on the locating pin. A little work on the keyway with a file might do wonders.

 

[pontiac428]

Clean your spindle bore out with some solvent and apply a light oil. When removing a tool, loosen the draw bar 2 turns and give the draw bar a tap on the top (I use a rubber faced mallet and one rap only) to loosen the tool. Then thread your draw bar out all the way and your R8 tool should drop out into your hand. Install is similar. Install your tool into the bore, hand thread the draw bar until snug, and wrench the last 1/2 turn or so. If it doesn't work exactly like that, I'd clean everything up and smear a little oil around until it does.

 

[darkzero]

Sounds like it is hanging on the locating pin. A little work on the keyway with a file might do wonders.

I took mine out & never looked back, I don't miss it at all.

If it is the "locating pin" that's causing it, RF mill/drills usually use set screws instead of a pressed in pin. There's 2 set screws, one that acts as the actual locating pin & a second one behind it to lock the first one in place. It may just need to be backed out a bit. Check fitment with all your R8 arbors as the depth & width for the slot on R8 arbors can vary from mfgs. Sometimes the set screw isn't a dog point so they could be too wide for some R8 slots, in that case just turn down the OD of the tip as needed.

 

[chips&more]

If other R8 tooling fits OK? I would compare measurements with the good R8 that you have and the one that is sticking. Find the difference in measurements and fix it. I would not just go and modify/remove the pin when you don’t know what is wrong. Take some measurements and find out first, then decide. Sorry, but you have stuff made overseas, it could be anything.

 

[darkzero]

I would not just ago and modify/remove the pin when you don’t know what is wrong.

I wouldn't either & I never suggested taking out the pin. On these mill/drills set screws are used for the "pin" & often are never adjusted correctly from the factory. I did remove the pin/set screws after a couple of yrs not because of fitment issues, I removed it cause I prefer it without it, I'm not the only one that prefers it that way. People with BPs have removed them too. I did have to adjust the pin too as often is case with these import mill/drills.

 

[epanzella]

Thanks all. I'll look for that setscrew. I haven't hardly used the mill yet because I'm still setting up the table I built and fitting up the indexing system for the round column. I did make a few cuts and like it so far. I'm a total mill/drill nooby but after milling on my lathe for 20 years this is a treat!

 

[epanzella]

I coated a few collets with blue and the problem seems to be a tight fit between the top of the collet and the internal bore of the quill. Some collets do it and some don't. The 3 inch face mill has the worst fit of all.

 

[Latinrascalrg1]

Silly question but ive seen more obvious things overlooked by the most "expert" operator.....being its a New mill is it possible the quill is all gummed up with that anti-rust protective packing grease?

 

[epanzella]

Silly question but ive seen more obvious things overlooked by the most "expert" operator.....being its a New mill is it possible the quill is all gummed up with that anti-rust protective packing grease?

I cleand it out as best I could. Shining a light from the top with the drawbar removed it looks clean when looking up from the bottom with a mirror.