Faceplate Adventure or Sleeve Inception

Thanks John, I'll remember that in the future. It came out ok this time, but now I have a box of 96 1/2 long 10-24 socket head cap screws :)
 
Thanks for posting this, I'm keen on building the die filer myself and wondering how difficult it might be. Looking good so far.
 
benmychree said:
The thread 10-24 is to be avoided, all too easy to break taps, 32 TPI is a much better choice.
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The same could be said to be true of any Fine Pitch versus Coarse Pitch combination. The reason being that the coarse pitch has a smaller minor diameter than the fine pitch but usually the same major diameter. However, that isn't usually sufficient justification by itself for using one over the other.
 
Yes, especially in small sizes; large sizes are another matter, as are what materials are being worked with.
 
chippermat said:
Thanks for posting this, I'm keen on building the die filer myself and wondering how difficult it might be. Looking good so far.
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Well, I haven't posted a lot of the build yet, as I tend to get sidetracked on other projects (and honeydo's) so this could take years to complete. I think I've had the casting kit for about 3 years now. I'll give you a rundown on what I've done so far. I first cleaned up the top and bottom of the casting a bit with a grinder then marked out and drilled centers on the top and bottom on the drill press (I don't recomend this process, I got the centers in the wrong place and had to correct it later on). I then set it up in the lathe by grabbing the top knob in the chuck and using a half center in the base, then started facing the bottom. I didn't get very far because I didn't like the amount of runout in the base. I then set up to bore the hole for the shaft in the mill by deburing and then clamping against the side that the cover plate goes on. I drilled and bored the shaft hole to 1.125 (the drawing said 1.25, but I saw no reason for a bearing that thick, the shaft is 3/4). I then turned a mandrel from 1.4" stock to be a light press fit in the 1.125 hole and bolted it in from the cavity side. I then chucked this in the lathe and faced and bored the side where the cover plate goes. I have a CNC mill, so I intend to cut the counterbore and drill all the holes in one setup with that, but If I were using a manual lathe I would have bored the counterbore for the cover plate in this setup as well. I pondered on it for a while on what to do with the screwed up centers, then purchased the face plate that this thread is about. Once the face plate and angle plate were completed, I did the setup shown above by moving the plate into place and then tapping the casting about with the nut holding it just snug. This had to be repeated a couple of times to get it to a satisfactory location, then I faced it and cut the old center out with an end mill and drilled a 5/8 hole through to the cavity in the casting. I also turned the outer diameter of the base to use as a reference surface later on. I then took it off the lathe, set it up on the mill and faced the knob off to the proper length. I had to take over 5/8" off the knob, so that took care of the other center. I will put it back in the lathe and grab it in the chuck by the base, then drill it all the way through and ream it to .872 (the closest reamer I have to the drawings 7/8"). The plan is then to go back to the mill and using a mandrel in the shaft hole and a 3 jaw chuck attached to the bed set it up to cut the counterbore for the cover plate and drill the holes. I have a tapping head but I think I'll tap the holes in this job by hand. I'm chicken. At that point I think I will set it up on the mill again by clamping the base to the table and aligning the shaft axis with the lathe axis. With that setup I can drill the holes on the top for the felt hold down and face off the bolt bosses that will hold the table supports. I haven't figured out how I'm going to drill those bolt boss holes yet. I'll have to make a reverse spotfacer to spot face the holes for the base, as well. Fun project so far and I look forward to having a die filer in the future.
 
Got to admit, seems like a die filer would be a nice thing to have. But my next project is getting a 2 stall garage built for may shop.
Would you buy the kit again or do your own castings and fabriction from stock materials?
 
Understand, have to have a place to work after all. I think the kit is very nice, I would buy it again. It's also not terribly expensive, especialy if you had to buy the steel to make it and have it shipped. It comes with the main body casting that I'm working on, the slide for the motion, the table, the cover plate and steel for the arms that hold up the table. The pricey stuff you have to buy is the bronze for the bearings, they are not standard sizes (I guess you could build it to take standard sizes). You will also need some steel for the shafts, crank and the top cover. Gary Martin at Martin Model and Castings also has a kit, but the motion on it is open, and I was woried about wear. I also bought the pulley casting, which is sold seperately from the main casting kit. I don't know how I'm going to mount and power it, I would like something with variable speed.
 
I fooled around with the design of a die filer. I can cast aluminum so considered that for the main body. Considered several mechanisms for the motion. The one in your kit is probably the simplest to make. I can buy hardened and ground shafts for the guides/shafts. I'm inclinded to try using Delrin for the bearings/slides (I've got a big hunk.) I've also got some UHMW. Main advantage being that there is no lubrication required. IGUS sells ready to use plastic bearings, worth considering. Variable speed seems desirable. 3 groove pulleys, disc drive, Electronic controles. Alternatives: attach it to the mill table and drive with the quill? Mount it on the cross slide of the lathe and drive it with the chuck?
 
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