I have been looking for some screw slot files. I have found them at Brownells. They are freaking 42.99 ea! I am also curious about the categorizing of files such as #1 cut, etc? I have tried to look this up with little success. Anyone know where I can find lesser expensive files, and a primer full of information so that I know what the numbers are describing in regard to files?
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Files
- Thread starter geraldsd
- Start date
I have downloaded 2 pdf files from the makers of Nicholson, Apex Hand Tools. Google the terms 'file terminology.pdf' and 'Nicholson Guide to Files and Filing'. You'll get the links to download them. Lots of great info.
Chuck
Chuck
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- Jul 26, 2011
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Forget about using Nicholson files. Just use the PDF. They are made in Mexico. I got a box of them. They are dead soft. I took an OLD USA made Nicholson file,and was able to easily file the corner off of the Mexican ones,producing a facet about 1/32" deep before reaching the hard core. That is way below the tooth line. Somehow,the Mexicans are letting their files decarb while getting them hot enough to harden them.
Cooper tool group has made it impossible to contact them. I guess they don't care,and are running the Nicholson name into the ground for profit.
Bahco files are still good,but they take a while to order.
Stewart MacDonald guitar supply has files of graduated width for filing guitar nuts. They are a lot cheaper than the ones you refer to. But,they will make a round bottom groove since they are intended for guitar string grooves. They start at about .012" wide. They are good Japanese made files,not cheap made Chinese ones.
You can make a narrow screw slot saw by filing the set off of hacksaw blades. Would it be crazy to do that to 2 of them,and super glue 2 of them together? Might work,really. Or,you could drill them and rivet them together. A small masonry bit run at high speed will drill them. CLAMP SECURELY.
They used to make special hacksaw blades with no set to saw clean screw slots(Starrett). But no longer available.
Cooper tool group has made it impossible to contact them. I guess they don't care,and are running the Nicholson name into the ground for profit.
Bahco files are still good,but they take a while to order.
Stewart MacDonald guitar supply has files of graduated width for filing guitar nuts. They are a lot cheaper than the ones you refer to. But,they will make a round bottom groove since they are intended for guitar string grooves. They start at about .012" wide. They are good Japanese made files,not cheap made Chinese ones.
You can make a narrow screw slot saw by filing the set off of hacksaw blades. Would it be crazy to do that to 2 of them,and super glue 2 of them together? Might work,really. Or,you could drill them and rivet them together. A small masonry bit run at high speed will drill them. CLAMP SECURELY.
They used to make special hacksaw blades with no set to saw clean screw slots(Starrett). But no longer available.
I wasn't commenting on the current quality of the Nicholson brand. The information referenced is good, isn't it?
I have dozens of Nicholson files, most are older than me and good quality. I can't comment on how good the current stuff is. I inherited 99% of my files.
Chuck
I have dozens of Nicholson files, most are older than me and good quality. I can't comment on how good the current stuff is. I inherited 99% of my files.
Chuck
- Joined
- Jul 26, 2011
- Messages
- 4,142
Yes,the info is good. I said use the PDF,not the Mexican files.(I don't think the PDF was made in Mexico).
Those numbers are how they grade cuts in Europe,and for needle files. The coarsest is #00,then 0,etc. The finest needle files I have been able to buy are #6(really teeny teeth). But,they go to #8. Possibly for escapement files.
By the way,USA Grobets are MADE IN INDIA. No good. How they get by with that? Possibly the name of the company that distributes them.
Dick and Hirsch German made files are still good also. No telling when they will go South. Vallorbes are made in Switzerland still(It's the name of the town). I haven't actually seen that brand for sale in any catalogs for a long time. They may have to be ordered overseas,along with the Dick and Hirsch brands.
I had a Dick catalog at work. They sell a lot of interesting things for artists and metal workers. If you can get one,it would be very useful. Oh,be aware that despite the number system,German and Swiss files are cut differently in fine ness.
I have done just fine using 6" needle files to file screw slots. The knife file will cut pretty fine slots. If I want a VERY fine slot,I use coarse jeweler's saw blades,possibly followed up by filing.
Those numbers are how they grade cuts in Europe,and for needle files. The coarsest is #00,then 0,etc. The finest needle files I have been able to buy are #6(really teeny teeth). But,they go to #8. Possibly for escapement files.
By the way,USA Grobets are MADE IN INDIA. No good. How they get by with that? Possibly the name of the company that distributes them.
Dick and Hirsch German made files are still good also. No telling when they will go South. Vallorbes are made in Switzerland still(It's the name of the town). I haven't actually seen that brand for sale in any catalogs for a long time. They may have to be ordered overseas,along with the Dick and Hirsch brands.
I had a Dick catalog at work. They sell a lot of interesting things for artists and metal workers. If you can get one,it would be very useful. Oh,be aware that despite the number system,German and Swiss files are cut differently in fine ness.
I have done just fine using 6" needle files to file screw slots. The knife file will cut pretty fine slots. If I want a VERY fine slot,I use coarse jeweler's saw blades,possibly followed up by filing.
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- Aug 29, 2011
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Clamp the screw in a fixture and use an end mill ?? I have a set of carbide cutters <well , 2 sets> from Horrible Fright that would do decent screw slots .
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Snag
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Not sure what you mean by clamp the screw in a fixture and use an end mill. You could slot them with slitting saws in a milling machine. I hardly even bother to do this(can't recall when I did this). It is quicker to just slot screws by hand,unless I was making a bunch of them. Usually a large size jeweler's saw blade followed by a knife shaped needle file does it. I don't mind making the screw slot a little "V" shaped,because then,when I use a straight ground screwdriver on it,it can't bugger the top edges of the slot on important screws.
The things I make,like these,have antique type screw slots. They were usually a little "V" shaped. The V shape does help keep a screwdriver away from the top edges of the screw. Buggering these screws would be sure death to the appearance of the whole object. Note the V shape on the hammer(cock) of the flintlock. That is authentic.
The things I make,like these,have antique type screw slots. They were usually a little "V" shaped. The V shape does help keep a screwdriver away from the top edges of the screw. Buggering these screws would be sure death to the appearance of the whole object. Note the V shape on the hammer(cock) of the flintlock. That is authentic.
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I have my Bridgeport type,and a Harrison universal(table swivels) horizontal. I also have a horizontal adapter for the Bridgy type,though I don't really need it unless the Harrison breaks down. Also have a fp1 Deckel which is vertical/horizontal.
Not sure what you mean by thoughts on it. I like them all. I'm so used to the Bridgy type,I use it nearly all the time. The Deckel is considered a prize by everyone,but I just can't get with it. Yes,a great machine. I have the tilting table,too. Those machines will do anything,but table travel is shorter than I like. The Harrison is not a real large machine,but plenty powerful.Gear head,runs very smooth. All machines have power feed. The Bridgy type and the Deckel have it in X and Y axes.
Not sure what you mean by thoughts on it. I like them all. I'm so used to the Bridgy type,I use it nearly all the time. The Deckel is considered a prize by everyone,but I just can't get with it. Yes,a great machine. I have the tilting table,too. Those machines will do anything,but table travel is shorter than I like. The Harrison is not a real large machine,but plenty powerful.Gear head,runs very smooth. All machines have power feed. The Bridgy type and the Deckel have it in X and Y axes.