Finally got to work on my foundry

[bvd1940]

Very nice setup Hawkeye, real neat not messy like mine:biggrin: AND I BET IT STILL BBQs good to I wish I could find a small shaper close to my location for sale as I am gettin lazy in my OLD!!! age or at least find a set of patterns I could beg/barrow or seal:biggrin: to save me all the woodwork.
Oh well tractor broke down so gotta put it back together tomorrow before I get to play with the burner again.

Bill in SE Idaho

 

[bvd1940]

Thanks Ron that site is real interesting and I will be back there for ideas.:high5:
Bill in SE Idaho

 

[churchjw]

Very nice I look forward to seeing what you make with it. I have done a lot of casting but all with premade equipment in a school shop.


Jeff

 

[Pacer]

Real nice work on all of them, you wouldn't happen to still have the patterns for the shaper?? If you do would you consider selling/loaning them?:biggrin: I have the equipment to make them but I would rather be casting and machining rather than wood working)
I am envious of your work, hope mine comes out near as good:thinking:.
Bill in SE Idaho

Making up patterns (especially as many as in the shaper..) can be the off putting in getting into casting. It takes quite a good collection of wood working tools, and the skill to use them -- I dont think I could have did them without a wood planer to get those many varied thicknesses of wood. Then when a pattern is finished, it has to be very smooth to enable 'pulling' it from the sand -- filleting all corners, getting some taper, painting for slickness, etc (A note here about 'taper', I have found not to worry too much with taper on the small parts, I can 'bump/jar' the pattern while in the sand enough to get it pulled, even with the larger pieces in the shaper need only a small amount)

As to still having my patterns, Bill, I do have most of them --- but --- with some of the small ones getting lost, and moisture and time getting to others, warping/splitting them, they arent of much use.

PS: FWIW, old pistons are the bestest source for casting material - try not to use much extrusion stuff

 

[bvd1940]

Making up patterns (especially as many as in the shaper..) can be the off putting in getting into casting. It takes quite a good collection of wood working tools, and the skill to use them -- I dont think I could have did them without a wood planer to get those many varied thicknesses of wood. Then when a pattern is finished, it has to be very smooth to enable 'pulling' it from the sand -- filleting all corners, getting some taper, painting for slickness, etc (A note here about 'taper', I have found not to worry too much with taper on the small parts, I can 'bump/jar' the pattern while in the sand enough to get it pulled, even with the larger pieces in the shaper need only a small amount)

As to still having my patterns, Bill, I do have most of them --- but --- with some of the small ones getting lost, and moisture and time getting to others, warping/splitting them, they arent of much use.

PS: FWIW, old pistons are the bestest source for casting material - try not to use much extrusion stuff

Thanks for the info, as far as the tooling for woodworking I have built my own house including the cabinets so I have all the necessary tools plus extra for wood working.:biggrin:
I just got tired of woodworking and want to get back to what I did for a living in a machine shop:nuts: I know how it goes with patterns over time but thought it would be worth a shot:thinking:
Just found out I have to go in next week for a operation and it will slow down my progress on the shaper Oh well crap happens
I have been hunting for pistons & alum wheels but have not found much around here:banghead:

 

[ScrapMetal]

Making up patterns (especially as many as in the shaper..) can be the off putting in getting into casting. It takes quite a good collection of wood working tools, and the skill to use them -- I dont think I could have did them without a wood planer to get those many varied thicknesses of wood. Then when a pattern is finished, it has to be very smooth to enable 'pulling' it from the sand -- filleting all corners, getting some taper, painting for slickness, etc (A note here about 'taper', I have found not to worry too much with taper on the small parts, I can 'bump/jar' the pattern while in the sand enough to get it pulled, even with the larger pieces in the shaper need only a small amount)

As to still having my patterns, Bill, I do have most of them --- but --- with some of the small ones getting lost, and moisture and time getting to others, warping/splitting them, they arent of much use.

PS: FWIW, old pistons are the bestest source for casting material - try not to use much extrusion stuff

I ran across a material the other day that I wonder if it wouldn't be ideal for making the patterns. It's called ShapeLock and I saw it at http://www.makershed.com/product_p/mkshl1.htm

ShapeLock -- Shape-then-lock Design Plastic

Build your invention now without machine tools. Create super-strong custom parts, prototypes, molds, servo brackets, robot housings, sculptures, science projects, and more. It's rapid prototyping using only your hands!



Space-age plastic melts in a microwave or hot water at 160oF, then remains safely moldable by hand until it cools and locks rigidly at room temperature. Simply reheat to re-shape as often as you like.


This easy-to-use, exciting material is non-toxic, lightweight, machine-able, and paint-able, plus it can be even be colored with hobby-shop pigments. Full instructions are included.

Facts and Tips about ShapeLock

Reusable - Just reheat and remold, endlessly recycle-able.
Super Tough, Safe and Non-Toxic.
Machine-able - Easy to saw, drill, tap and mill.
Paintable - Readily accepts Acrylic hobby paints, dyes and pigments.
Excellent material for frames, brackets, forms, molds and custom parts.
How to Heat ShapeLock

With Hot Water - Place granules in a hot water bath of 160 degrees Fahrenheit, when the material turns clear remove it from the water bath with tongs, allow it cool for a minute or two and then squeeze out any excess water. A standard kitchen thermometer is useful for maintaining the correct temperature. Do NOT Overheat.
In the Microwave - Larger masses of ShapeLock can be heated in the microwave oven. Be sure to place the ShapeLock in a bowl of water to limit heating of the material. Do not allow the water to come to a boil. NEVER heat ShapeLock by itself in the microwave. The material can reach very high temperatures and cause potentially serious burns if touched. THESE HIGH TEMPERATURES ARE NOT NECESSARY, SHAPELOCK BECOMES MOLDABLE AT JUST 150 DEGREES FAHRENHEIT.
With a Hot Air Gun - A hot air gun of the type used for heat shrink tubing or a hair dryer can be used to heat ShapeLock to its moldable temperature. Be careful not to overheat the material.
​

What is ShapeLock?

ShapeLock is an Ultra-High Molecular Weight Low Temperature Thermoplastic.
What does "Ultra-High Molecular Weight Low Temperature Thermoplastic" mean in laymans English?
ShapeLock is a super strong plastic similar to Nylon or Polypropylene in toughness.
However, unlike the two former plastics it does not need high temperatures or high pressures to form into useful shapes.
ShapeLock is easily hand-formed into shape at just 150 degrees Fahrenheit.

​

I may have to get some to try out.

-Ron

 

[bvd1940]

That is real interesting Ron I think I will investigate further