First Boring Bar Purchase - Evaluating Options

AmericanMachinist

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Hi, I am looking for my first boring bar and evaluating options. Lathe is a Logan 200, 10" swing.

First the material... any concerns running carbide on a lathe with top speed of 1450 RPM? Most of my bores are likely 1/4" to 1.5" range, but might have occasional needs to go larger.

Then to pick a manufacturer: (tool and any inserts must be USA made)
  • Micro100 - solid carbide - looks nice, but seem to be consumable in the long run without inserts?
  • UltraDex with inserts - look nice, pricey.
  • Ajax bars with inserts - I can't actually tell that they are American made - I don't see it listed. Anyone know? e.g. https://www.ajaxtoolsupply.com/ajst06inboba.html
  • Other brands / options I may be missing?
As far as sizing / model:
  • Looks like I'll need a bar fairly small relative to the bore size if I want to turn the bottom of the bore flat, given the bar diameter plus the offset of the cutting edge or insert face beyond the outside diameter of the bar.
  • Am considering 3* or 5* lead angles, not sure if one is substantially better than the other, or something else?
  • My only boring bar holder is an old Armstrong holder for a lantern tool post (I don't have a QC tool post), but I think I can make this work or build another holder as needed.
Thanks for any tips! There's a lot out there, and still trying to digest it all.
 
Boring anything smaller than about 3/8ths is hard; especially compared to boring things bigger than 1/2". I can' give any advice for boring in this size range. For holes smaller than 3/8ths, I use my collection of 115 different sized drills. (Cobalt; $99 at Habror Feright.)

I can bore as small as 6.5mm on my lathe and 8mm in the mill. The smaller lathe tool has plenty of flex (not good) and takes an insert that is similarly small and thin (also not good). But I have bars with inserts in {6mm, 7mm, 8mm, 10mm, and 12mm}. I got all of them as a kit via Ebay along with 20 inserts for about $60 (has to be from China).

I find it is not so much about high RPMs as it is about the sharpness of the point and how slowly you can drag the point across the bore; even more so as the diameter of the bar is reduced to fit in tiny holes.
 
I think I'll go with an Ulta Dex with TCMT 21.51 insert. And learn from there. Thanks for the input!

Regarding super small holes - I have letter, number, and standard/metric drills, which should work for most small holes... if I need something super precise I suppose I'll buy a reamer (or try a very small boring bar, at that time).
 
Hi, I am looking for my first boring bar and evaluating options. Lathe is a Logan 200, 10" swing.

First the material... any concerns running carbide on a lathe with top speed of 1450 RPM? Most of my bores are likely 1/4" to 1.5" range, but might have occasional needs to go larger.

Then to pick a manufacturer: (tool and any inserts must be USA made)
  • Micro100 - solid carbide - looks nice, but seem to be consumable in the long run without inserts?
  • UltraDex with inserts - look nice, pricey.
  • Ajax bars with inserts - I can't actually tell that they are American made - I don't see it listed. Anyone know? e.g. https://www.ajaxtoolsupply.com/ajst06inboba.html
  • Other brands / options I may be missing?
As far as sizing / model:
  • Looks like I'll need a bar fairly small relative to the bore size if I want to turn the bottom of the bore flat, given the bar diameter plus the offset of the cutting edge or insert face beyond the outside diameter of the bar.
  • Am considering 3* or 5* lead angles, not sure if one is substantially better than the other, or something else?
  • My only boring bar holder is an old Armstrong holder for a lantern tool post (I don't have a QC tool post), but I think I can make this work or build another holder as needed.
Thanks for any tips! There's a lot out there, and still trying to digest it all.

Materials: all carbide tooling tends to run much faster than HSS equivalents, and unless you are boring large diameters, your lathe's max speed will be a bit low. Carbide will still work but solid carbide bars like Micro 100 bars tend to cut very similar to HSS and that would be your best bet if you have to go deep. Otherwise, cobalt HSS would also be a good choice.

Insofar as the bore size range you listed, boring bars don't care about hole diameters; they care only about bore depth.

Then to pick a manufacturer: Micro 100 is a high quality bar and if you need a solid carbide bar, that is what I would suggest. Micro 100 bars can be sharpened by honing their flat tops on a diamond stone so they will far, far, far outlast any carbide insert. Most of my MIcro 100 bars are over a decade old and cut like new. They will also take micro-cuts so they are also more accurate than most inserted carbide bars. Plus, if you choose the right shank diameter, they are as stiff as any inserted carbide shanked bar so will be just as, if not more accurate than, an inserted bar.

Other brands / options I may be missing?
Yes, thousands of them. I tend to favor Circle Machine.

As far as sizing / model: If you plan to bore to a blind bottom then you need a positive lead bar, preferably 5 deg. When choosing a bar, you need to make sure you can fit the bar in the hole and still get chips out. Much depends on the bore depth, tolerances and finish requirements, too.

The smallest inserted carbide bar I own is a Circle Machine CCBI 3/16" diameter bar. It will bore a hole 1/4" ID or larger, to a depth of over 1-3/4" deep. For holes smaller than 1/4", I go with Micro 100 solid carbide bars.

My only boring bar holder is an old Armstrong holder for a lantern tool post (I don't have a QC tool post), but I think I can make this work or build another holder as needed. You might consider switching to a QCTP sooner rather than later and buy/make a good boring bar holder. It is the most important boring component you can own because it anchors your bar. It may not be so important for boring a through hole but I can assure you that if you ever need to bore a precision hole then it can make all the difference.

I think I'll go with an Ulta Dex with TCMT 21.51 insert. And learn from there. Thanks for the input!

Regarding super small holes - I have letter, number, and standard/metric drills, which should work for most small holes... if I need something super precise I suppose I'll buy a reamer (or try a very small boring bar, at that time).

This bar uses the old style triangular inserts with a 3 deg lead angle. I've never used this bar so I can't comment on it. Any particular reason for choosing it?

If I were to recommend a smallish boring bar, this is what I would suggest. This is a Circle Machine CCBI solid carbide boring bar that will fit in a 1/4" hole. This one comes with 10 inserts with a 0.007" nose radius but it will also take inserts with a 0.002" nose radius. It takes flat topped inserts without a chipbreaker and the insert has positive axial rake. This bar is easily one of the finest small boring bars I have ever used and I can recommend it if you need to go small. It can bore to a depth of just over 1.75" deep, to as large a diameter as your chuck can hold and it is very, very accurate.

Below 3/16" bars, I suggest you go with Micro 100 solid carbide bars.
 
Thank you! That's a ton of really great info. This just adds to other good things I've heard about Micro 100. https://www.micro100.com/products/tool-details-bb-3201800 ....looks like a good compromise between cost, ability to go semi-small, and rigidity with ability to bore deep holes. I usually probably won't use the 1.8" max depth of cut but hoping it's rigid enough for home use to have the length if/when needed. On a 10" Logan, I won't be taking hogging cuts anyway. With your experience with the micro 100 bars do you think I'm making poor assumptions?

Interesting it says the whole tool is only 2.5"?

A QC tool post (USA Made) isn't in the budget yet but hopefully at some point. Probably more value in upgrading from my mini-mill first.

Thanks again for all the insights!
 
To add to what Mikey posted, your are limited on the depth you can bore based on the material of the boring bar, so figure about 3-4X the bar diameter for steel and around 8X for carbide. You will also have limitations due to the rigidity of your lathe and holder, so you want a neutral or positive rake to the cutting edge. Alignment is also very critical. The solid carbide boring bars are more ideal for smaller diameters, and as other indicated you may be better off using drills and reamers for smaller holes. I have a number of boring bars both steel and carbide, the carbide are much stiffer and less prone to chatter. The smaller boring bars are CCMT/CCGT inserts 32.5X up to 1", 1/2" and under are 21.5X. You will also find boring bars that take CPMT inserts that have a positive insert seat, I purchased a used Iscar 1" boring bar and this can go quite deep. But as mentioned, you need more rigidity. I have a TCMT boring bar, I prefer the other insert styles.

So maybe look at 3 sizes,
1/4" in a solid carbide
3/8-1/2" in carbide with either a CC or CP insert
Possible a 3/4" in steel or a used carbide insert in good conditionwith either a CC or CP insert.

This eBay carbide boring bar may be worth looking at, new they can be $200-250. I have this bar and their 1/2" and they are a significant improvement over steel. Depending on the material you are boring, and DOC, you may want to use CCGT inserts that will give a cleaner cut with less Hp. You will be limited by the rate of removal. A 3/4" boring bar may be too much for this size lathe. I find I use lower RPM for boring as opposed to turning, if you are getting chatter then you may be turning to fast, to deep or need to adjust the feed.
 
Thank you! That's a ton of really great info. This just adds to other good things I've heard about Micro 100. https://www.micro100.com/products/tool-details-bb-3201800 ....looks like a good compromise between cost, ability to go semi-small, and rigidity with ability to bore deep holes. I usually probably won't use the 1.8" max depth of cut but hoping it's rigid enough for home use to have the length if/when needed. On a 10" Logan, I won't be taking hogging cuts anyway. With your experience with the micro 100 bars do you think I'm making poor assumptions?

Interesting it says the whole tool is only 2.5"?

A QC tool post (USA Made) isn't in the budget yet but hopefully at some point. Probably more value in upgrading from my mini-mill first.

Thanks again for all the insights!

I don't know your needs but if I could make a suggestion, it would be to hold off on purchasing a boring bar and work on getting a QCTP first. The reason for this is that a boring bar needs to be solidly anchored, and the more solid the anchor the better the bar performs. You can buy a really good boring bar but if you put it in a holder that is not rock solid then that bar cannot do its job.

I do not feel that a US-made QCTP is really necessary, although I own Aloris and Dorian tool posts. There are just too many hobby guys with import tool posts that have zero issues with them to think that spending hundreds of dollars is necessary. If I was to buy an import, I would probably look for a Shars post like this, then buy the holders as I need them instead of buying a set with tool holders you won't use. Ask the guys about tool holders and they can give you all the info you need. One exception to this is the boring bar holder. I feel pretty strongly that an Aloris AXA-4D is one of the best designs on the market and I would buy this instead of an import if I were you.

I wrote a Boring Primer that has some info you might be able to use. Look that over and hold off on buying bars until you really define your needs, then buy the right one(s). Also, come back and read Mark's (mksj above) post afterwards; it will make more sense to you then.
 
Changing the subject to QCTP. If money is tight you can make a norman style QCTP and 15 to 20 tool holders for around $100. Not hard to make. Only need your lathe and a drill to make one. That's what I did. Lots of forum members have made them.
 
The Micro 100 tools are nice but very delicate. Any mistake on moving the dials or kissing the bottom of a hole will cause an instant "snap".
Don't ask how I know this...

For holes larger than around 1/2" the older style Everede bars that take the triangle profile HHS or Carbide cutters are much more forgiving. They come in a few different angles which can to boring to the bottom of a hole or internal threading.
 
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