Fixing wrist pin bushing bore in connecting rod?

H

hhscr

Registered
Registered
Joined
Jul 15, 2017
Messages
8
I have gotten a Saylor Beall 2 stage air compressor that had a knock while running. Needless to say this compressor was not well maintained. What I found on disassembly is in the attached photos. The High Pressure Piston wrist pin has worn its way through the wrist pin bushing and has worn into the connecting rod.
I have measured the wear area and it is 10 thousands deep into the connecting rod. The Wrist pin bushing is .950 OD and .750 ID the bushing is pretty thick at .125.
I can still get a new wrist pin and bushing, but the cast iron connecting rod is no longer available new and I have not been able to find a NOS or a used one so far.

So my thoughts for this is
1. Do nothing and install a new bushing and move on. Not my best option but I will not be using this compressor in a commercial application.
2. Use brass shim stock to fill the void between the bushing and connecting rod. If I can get it to stay in place while installing the wrist pin.
3 Use JB Weld or something similar to fill the .010 indention. Don't know if it would bond well to such a small area and feathered out so thin. Its also in the area of the connecting rod that gets the most pressure during the compression part of the stroke so not even sure it would work.

Since I don't have the tooling needed to ream out the .950 connecting rod, I am trying not to braze up the indention.

Any ideas or thoughts on this will be appreciated.
IMG_0745.JPGIMG_0746.JPG
 
I guess if I didn't have the equipment to fix that, I would run it down the street to my local automotive machine shop and have them put in a new bushing. Just hand them the rod, the old bushing, and the new pin. They can hone the rod then create a new bushing that will fit.

Or as Mike says, JB weld would work also.
 
Loctite or other product.

Knurling also option.

Look for real engine rebuild shop as this is common issue.

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G930A using Tapatalk
 
The Jb Weld might work or Devcon bronze. as suggested mix it up and apply to the cleaned rod end and press the new bush in. when the filler has set clean up the excess, and proceed with assembly should be fine in a non commercial use. the filler is only being used to give some back support to the new bush and it's only a small area, it should be fine.
 
It is a compressor and not subject to the same stresses as in an I.C.E. 0.010" in this application can be taken up with some epoxy or Loctite. Put a new bush in and then take the rod to an engine reconditioner for honing. Alternatively ream the little end round, make a new bush and fit and finish. The reason for outsourcing honing is that connecting rods are honed on a special machine to ensure both the big & little ends are in the same plane.
Man that thing must have been noisy!
 
JB weld wouldn’t last a heat cycle in those conditions no way. John said it resize the bore to fit a bigger bushing that’s how it’s done all day long.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top