Fixturing A Flat Plate

cncastle

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This is a total rookie question. I just bought a vertical mill, and know nothing about machining. My first project is just going to be drilling a hole in a 3/16" thick steel plate. What's the best way to hold the plate for drilling? Do I just clamp it in a vice, leaving space below the plate for the drill to pass through?

Thanks,
Chris
 
Welcome Chris,

How about a bit more information. Like how big is the plate? I sounds like perhaps it will fit in the vise, and if it is some what parallel the vise should hold it securely. Make sure to leave clearance for the bit to penetrate and not hit anything. Also to keep it parallel to the table one would use parallels at each vise jaw under the workpiece.

If it is a larger piece then it can be held to the milling table with a sacrificial piece underneath, with a toe clamp kit.

David
 
Clamp it to the table with a sacrificial timber sandwiched between.

Cheers Phil
 
Congratulations on your purchase!

Consider watching the many free and entertaining TubalCain videos. There are similar free videos which will provoke you do the right thing!
Terminology and machine awareness are the first obstacles.
Here is a short orientation primer: http://web.mit.edu/2.670/www/Tutorials/Machining/mill/Description.html

However, most importantly is safety, as it becomes cumbersome to actively participate here at HM without eyes or fingers.

Daryl
MN
 
Just be careful when drilling thin material as sometimes it can be sucked up out of a vise as the drill breaks through, especially if it's a large diameter hole. If it is a large hole a bi-metal hole saw can make easy work of it.
 
Also for thin materials I have found step bits can be useful. They don't provide the same range of hole diameters as an indexed set. But they don't suck thin metals up and do make clean holes.

David
 
Common approaches for thin stock:

-hold by the edges (clamps, screws, whatever) with a sacrificial subplate. 3/4" MDF is common, plywood or scrap hardwood works. Don't forget that one can always drill small (1/4") holes in thin stock where there are large expanses of unmachined area to allow screws or bolts to be used as hold-downs, with washers as needed, on a subplate. That's not cosmetically elegant- but it works just fine, and allows machining the edges as well.

-an alternative is to sandwich the thin stock between pieces of MDF. No clamps on the stock, just clamp the MDF well. If you have features that can all be done at once (several internal holes), that works fine. Then re-mount on a single piece, re-zero (use one of the holes) and then cut the edge profile. Registration will only be as good as your set-ups, but usually adequate. This approach also helps with grabby drills.

- use doublestick tape to hold (3M 95395792) on a subplate. Other doublestick tapes sometimes work under light forces; this one is pressure activated, so use a heavy clamping force (press, vise) to push it down hard. Still don't want to take deep cuts. Best with metal subplates.

-with a metal subplate, cyanoacrylate can be used. Work and metal subplate must be clean, flat. Machining forces may be too heavy, especially for heavy cuts. CA adhsives can be readily broken by heating to about 300C. Do that outside, avoid fumes.

-Mitee-bite edge clamps (again, sacrificial plate) or the round screw-down ones in a vise jaw. Issue here is that you're drilling a rather thin plate, so any size beyond maybe 2x hole size is going to be a bit iffy (think potential frisbee with sharp edges). Edge clamps will allow heavy cuts if used properly- Mitee-bite claims 2 tons of clamp force or more.

Personally, I'd never try to drill thin stock <1/4" held in a vise the way you seem to imagine doing it (between jaws, maybe up on parallels). Mostly, it'll work. The time it doesn't, if the stock gets loose it's a flying knife edge. 3/16 is at an awkward point- not really thin, but not really thick enough for a vise. Subplate and bolts would be my choice.

For larger diameter holes, pocket it if you have CNC capability. That avoids grabby drills. ("Larger" = >1/4", if you have CNC).
 
use doublestick tape to hold (3M 95395792) on a subplate. Other doublestick tapes sometimes work under light forces; this one is pressure activated, so use a heavy clamping force (press, vise) to push it down hard. Still don't want to take deep cuts. Best with metal subplates.
What's the best way to get things apart once the machining is done, when using this (permanent bond double sided carpet tape) ? Thanks, JR49
EDIT; Oh, and cncastle, great question. I think everyone learns something when a "rookie question" is asked, so keep them comming
 
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