- Joined
- Feb 2, 2013
- Messages
- 3,656
My sister called a couple weeks ago and asked why the breaker for her hot tub would trip and refuse to stay on.
i gave her a verbal list of possibilities and came to the realization that it would be easier if i just went over to see what was going on.
I have only worked on some controls for a friends tub many moons ago...
but, i'm not really afraid, i work on way more complicated things on a daily basis.
when i got there i removed the covers and started checking it out.
the hot tub has 2 pumps. one pump looked good, no visible signs of fault.
the other didn't look so good, it was the pump responsible for the jets that come out in the hot tub. i think there are 12 jets in this tub.
the pump's impeller was broken in the ceramic seal area. there was visible signs of rust in the seal area.
i disconnected the pump from the spa so i could take it apart for rebuild.
the pump is a flow-master XP2 2 hp 115/230 dual voltage motor.it is configured for 230 vac in this application.
i disassebled the motor and chucked the rotor into my vise with some rags as padding so i didn't damage the rotor
as seen below.
there didn't appear to be external means of removing the impeller without damage- no flats to grab on, no holes to pry on, etc......:thinking:
I had a 63" long serpentine belt i haven't used for another project yet.
i figured if i were to let the friction of rubber on rubber to be my driver and remover
so here we are, a picture of the serpentine strap wrench in action!
the loose end of the belt was wrapped around the impeller housing in a fashion that increased grip as torque was applied
this picture was taken during the tightening sequence. the belt was wrapped opposite (clockwise) for the removal of the impeller.
a picture of the damaged impeller below , beyond repair for practical purposes.
the 2 bits laying on the impeller create a cylinder that is supposed to create a sealing surface for the ceramic seal.
the other sealing surface is inside the impeller housing.
a view of the ceramic seal as removed from the pump housing, below
reassembly was really easy, basically the opposite of disassembly.
i installed a new impeller and ceramic seal. (the internal seal and sealing surfaces were generously lubed upon installation)
after reattachment and reassembly of the motor, i spun the impeller by hand to make sure it turned freely.
it checked out. turning very smoothly!!!
I then put 230 vac single phase to the motor to hear it work!!!
another successful operation even though i never seen the inside of a flo-master pump before!!!
thanks for reading!!!!
i gave her a verbal list of possibilities and came to the realization that it would be easier if i just went over to see what was going on.
I have only worked on some controls for a friends tub many moons ago...
but, i'm not really afraid, i work on way more complicated things on a daily basis.
when i got there i removed the covers and started checking it out.
the hot tub has 2 pumps. one pump looked good, no visible signs of fault.
the other didn't look so good, it was the pump responsible for the jets that come out in the hot tub. i think there are 12 jets in this tub.
the pump's impeller was broken in the ceramic seal area. there was visible signs of rust in the seal area.
i disconnected the pump from the spa so i could take it apart for rebuild.
the pump is a flow-master XP2 2 hp 115/230 dual voltage motor.it is configured for 230 vac in this application.
i disassebled the motor and chucked the rotor into my vise with some rags as padding so i didn't damage the rotor
as seen below.
there didn't appear to be external means of removing the impeller without damage- no flats to grab on, no holes to pry on, etc......:thinking:
I had a 63" long serpentine belt i haven't used for another project yet.
i figured if i were to let the friction of rubber on rubber to be my driver and remover
so here we are, a picture of the serpentine strap wrench in action!
the loose end of the belt was wrapped around the impeller housing in a fashion that increased grip as torque was applied
this picture was taken during the tightening sequence. the belt was wrapped opposite (clockwise) for the removal of the impeller.
a picture of the damaged impeller below , beyond repair for practical purposes.
the 2 bits laying on the impeller create a cylinder that is supposed to create a sealing surface for the ceramic seal.
the other sealing surface is inside the impeller housing.
a view of the ceramic seal as removed from the pump housing, below
reassembly was really easy, basically the opposite of disassembly.
i installed a new impeller and ceramic seal. (the internal seal and sealing surfaces were generously lubed upon installation)
after reattachment and reassembly of the motor, i spun the impeller by hand to make sure it turned freely.
it checked out. turning very smoothly!!!
I then put 230 vac single phase to the motor to hear it work!!!
another successful operation even though i never seen the inside of a flo-master pump before!!!
thanks for reading!!!!
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