Does anyone here own a Mill/Drill machine similar to this one and if so, would you know where I can find a manual? It came with no tooling other than the drill chuck. It works ok and also seems pretty tight but does need some disassembling and clean up. Did I make a bad purchase? Junk?
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Force International Mill
- Thread starter CnC65
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Looks like a nice machine. As a round column, you'll be limited to using the quill for Z axis movement, but beyond that limitation it should work great for you! The rust looks not too bad and can probably be cleaned up without too much effort.
Congrats
Congrats
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Sure! Identify your spindle taper and drawbar thread. It will probably be R8 or MT#?.
You can find stuff used on eBay or auction sites, but for cheap import tooling I like:
You can find stuff used on eBay or auction sites, but for cheap import tooling I like:
- Shars
- CDCO tool
- eBay for new import tools
- Joined
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You'll probably want a 4" machine vise, a set of collets, a drill chuck, a set of drills, some endmills, and edge finder, and basic measuring tools with precision to match what you want to work on. A set of 6" calipers (get a bit better than harbor freight) should cover you starting out.
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I would do a tear down and clean up.
An acquaintance bought a similar one in July '19. Came out of an estate sale home workshop.
It had been sitting for awhile and the table was stiff and tight.
He tore it down and there was grit and burrs present. The gibs were really shoddy.
He stoned and de-burred everything, and it was much better after that.
An acquaintance bought a similar one in July '19. Came out of an estate sale home workshop.
It had been sitting for awhile and the table was stiff and tight.
He tore it down and there was grit and burrs present. The gibs were really shoddy.
He stoned and de-burred everything, and it was much better after that.
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- Dec 20, 2012
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- 9,422
Despite the "25" on the front cover, that looks for all the world like the popular RF-30/31. If it was made in Taiwan then it probably is one and was simply re-badged. I am attaching the RF-31 manual and that should help. That is a beefy benchtop mill that is capable of good work.
Most of the round column mills sold in the country came with R8 spindles but you should check. The column will clean up with some WD-40 and scotchbrite; it is cast iron and cleanly machined. The rust on the rest of the machine can be cleaned up the same way. I chose to put mine through the electrolytic rust removal tank to get rid of the rust and paint and body filler; made it much easier to clean up and re-paint. Disassembling this machine is dead simple and logical. The IPB in the manual will help.
I would focus on getting the mill restored, then look at tooling once you figure out which kind of spindle taper you have. A 4" machine vise is perfect on this mill. 5" will be a bit too big.
A fair number of us own this type of machine and can answer specific questions. I have had mine down to the last nut and bolt and I'm sure others have as well.
Welcome to HM, by the way.
Most of the round column mills sold in the country came with R8 spindles but you should check. The column will clean up with some WD-40 and scotchbrite; it is cast iron and cleanly machined. The rust on the rest of the machine can be cleaned up the same way. I chose to put mine through the electrolytic rust removal tank to get rid of the rust and paint and body filler; made it much easier to clean up and re-paint. Disassembling this machine is dead simple and logical. The IPB in the manual will help.
I would focus on getting the mill restored, then look at tooling once you figure out which kind of spindle taper you have. A 4" machine vise is perfect on this mill. 5" will be a bit too big.
A fair number of us own this type of machine and can answer specific questions. I have had mine down to the last nut and bolt and I'm sure others have as well.
Welcome to HM, by the way.
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- Apr 23, 2018
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- 6,611
Yep, like Mikey says, lots of us here own that family of mill.
After you've cleaned it up and got your adjustments right, the only thing you need is to build some confidence. Ignore some of what you may hear about round column issues, or at least don't let it bother you. These mills are capable of doing good work. Most of their minor design flaws can be corrected in the home shop. I've made a ton of chips with mine.
I am happy with a 5" vise, but it is the absolute maximum for that mill. A 4" is a better fit.
You should also consider a DRO setup sooner rather than later. I got mine from iGauging, which is hardly more sophisticated than HF digital calipers, but anything that fits will work. The power feed module is a godsend, cheaply available on eBay. With power feed and DRO, you're really waking up this mill's potential.
Then you'll need a drill chuck, a face mill or fly cutter, a R8 collet set, and of course cutting tools. Wait until you see the need for any tooling beyond that. There's a lot out there to buy, but try and hold off until you know that you need it. It will save you money.
After you've cleaned it up and got your adjustments right, the only thing you need is to build some confidence. Ignore some of what you may hear about round column issues, or at least don't let it bother you. These mills are capable of doing good work. Most of their minor design flaws can be corrected in the home shop. I've made a ton of chips with mine.
I am happy with a 5" vise, but it is the absolute maximum for that mill. A 4" is a better fit.
You should also consider a DRO setup sooner rather than later. I got mine from iGauging, which is hardly more sophisticated than HF digital calipers, but anything that fits will work. The power feed module is a godsend, cheaply available on eBay. With power feed and DRO, you're really waking up this mill's potential.
Then you'll need a drill chuck, a face mill or fly cutter, a R8 collet set, and of course cutting tools. Wait until you see the need for any tooling beyond that. There's a lot out there to buy, but try and hold off until you know that you need it. It will save you money.