Found a problem with my ford 9" differential

alloy

Dan, Retired old fart
H-M Supporter Gold Member
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Was putting a trac lock in my ford 9" and found some rotational play in the yoke. I't's not gear backlash and you can see in the video.

I've really never worked on differentials much, put a posi in a couple but that's it.

Not sure if I should change it or leave it. If I do have to change it will I screw up the pinion depth/backlash and preload?


 
Looks like a spline issue, as I don't see the nut moving any. I would think over time it will get worse

I would pull the yoke and check the spline, hopefully it is an issue with the yoke and not the pinion spline
 
Since the pinion is hardened and I'm assuming the splines are also it should be the yoke. Never seen this before.

But can I change out the yoke and not screw something up in preload and torque it takes to rotate it?

Gonna do some checking on youtube, but I take 99% of what I see there with a grain of salt.
 
Has a crush sleeve to set preload. Done a bunch. Some will replace crush sleeve with several shims. Takes a few. Supposed to reduce friction. In a race type set up. Have a ratchet diff. Probably never use.
 
gonna take a impact gun or a breaker bar to start the crush sleeve to collapse.
 
Been a while since I’ve work on a ford 9” (mostly deal with 8.8’s these days), but I’ll give it a shot.

Preload needs to be redone.

The yoke nut should be pressing the yoke against the crush sleeve to set the backlash in the gears and preload on the bearings. With the yoke loose, I would tend to think the preload is gone.

Crush sleeves are a one time use type of thing. I stopped using them a ling time ago. Now I set my gear backlash with a set of setup bearings and stackable spacers to get he backlash I need. Then I machine a spacer to the size I need to keep my backlash correct.

Then its a simple matter to change seals or whatnot without having to redo backlash with a new crush spacer. As oong as you don’t do something like change gears or bearings, the spacer is good to go every time.

Edit: ah crap. Forgot the crush sleeve isn’t for backlash setting. Its primarily for pinion bearing preload. Ignore all that backlash talk.
 
I've found these on ebay. I think this is all I'll need.

Just pulled the pinion support and yes the preload is gone. It has a 1310 u joint and short yoke and I'd like to go to a long 1310 yoke, but can't seem to find one for a decent price. I did find a long yoke 1330 below and can run a 1310/1330 conversion u joint. I'll either have to shorten the driveshaft, or have a new one made. The shaft is very small, 2-1/2". I was surprised at that since my nova was 3" and the 55 is a heavier car. If I need to get a new shaft made I'll just go 1330 on the back and 1310 on the front to match the trans yoke.





 
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Mark Williams sells good quality billet yokes That we’re not that expensive. Back in the day when I was racing (always stick cars on slicks), I broke pretty much everything, the driveline can really take a beating, The front yoke is one weak area, the splines in the transmission end twist. In the end I used a Moser ”N” case with the really big billet caps, Daytona support etc. It was near indestructible you could launch all day at 7000-8000RPM leave on the back wheels and never worry.
 
Make sure you have 1330 u joints, you can also go to a 1350 yoke, and a hybrid universal, 1330-1350 cross if needed.
 
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