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four jaw chuck
- Thread starter dcms
- Start date
- Joined
- Jan 22, 2011
- Messages
- 8,031
4 jaw independent chucks are typically disassembled by first backing the jaws all the way out, then from the back of the chuck (sometimes under welch plugs) removal of the slotted yokes for each screw. The screw then can be removed. Most don't need to be broken down any further than just taking the jaws out. The screws can be cleaned in place.
I have been giving all my chucks a deep clean up in the last couple of days.
I agree with above about only taking the jaws out, but once every few years I take them completely apart. The first time I do a chuck I remove all the burrs left from factory.
Before starting, grab a piece of paper and draw the chuck with a mark for orientation to make sure they go back where they come from. For reference, I use the machined recess where the makers sticker goes on the front to show which way. Not doing this will become a headache trying to figure out which one goes where, at least on Chinese chucks.
Once the jaws are out, the yoke is on either side of where the unthreaded part of the screw is. Put the chuck face up and a few 1 inch bit of timber around the outside for clearance, then gently use a punch on either side of the yoke to force the pins out. Once they are down so far the screws will come out and you can tap the yokes the rest of the way and you can clean everything up.
I use spray can degreaser with a tooth brush to wash mine out as it's cheap, then compressed air to blow it off dry.
If you have kept them in order, putting them back in is just a matter of lining them up and tapping them back in. I well oil the holes and yokes before putting them in so there is no chance of rust starting.
Dave
I agree with above about only taking the jaws out, but once every few years I take them completely apart. The first time I do a chuck I remove all the burrs left from factory.
Before starting, grab a piece of paper and draw the chuck with a mark for orientation to make sure they go back where they come from. For reference, I use the machined recess where the makers sticker goes on the front to show which way. Not doing this will become a headache trying to figure out which one goes where, at least on Chinese chucks.
Once the jaws are out, the yoke is on either side of where the unthreaded part of the screw is. Put the chuck face up and a few 1 inch bit of timber around the outside for clearance, then gently use a punch on either side of the yoke to force the pins out. Once they are down so far the screws will come out and you can tap the yokes the rest of the way and you can clean everything up.
I use spray can degreaser with a tooth brush to wash mine out as it's cheap, then compressed air to blow it off dry.
If you have kept them in order, putting them back in is just a matter of lining them up and tapping them back in. I well oil the holes and yokes before putting them in so there is no chance of rust starting.
Dave
- Joined
- Jun 12, 2011
- Messages
- 581
Davo J link=topic=3445.msg24776#msg24776 date=1315385293 said:
Be sure and use your ex-wife's toothbrush and then place it back in her bathroom, I don't know if it will clean the chuck any better but it will sure make you feel better,,,,,LOL, J.K.
Last edited by a moderator:
If you put it back on the lathe spindle with everything out, you can wrap a piece of emery around it to clean up the outside and use a piece of emery on a flat off cut of wood for the face.
Just make sure you put some paper or aluminum foil down to stop the fine grit getting on your ways. Don't forget degrease it after woods again.
What I did on the jaws of a new/old chuck I bought, was to use a wire wheel on the drill with some aluminum wheel polish. It doesn't take away the pitting, but cleans it out to make it barely noticeable.
This should have it shiny and looking like new again.
Dave
Just make sure you put some paper or aluminum foil down to stop the fine grit getting on your ways. Don't forget degrease it after woods again.
What I did on the jaws of a new/old chuck I bought, was to use a wire wheel on the drill with some aluminum wheel polish. It doesn't take away the pitting, but cleans it out to make it barely noticeable.
This should have it shiny and looking like new again.
Dave