Gap bed on G4003 or G4003g?

I have a gap bed lathe but don't need the gap so it stays put. It sounds like the gap piece is not designed to be an on-off feature like a switch.
It is more like a tab on an aluminum beer can. So putting the gap piece back in is like welding the tab back to seal a beer can. It can be done but... :)
 
I'd be very afraid removing the gap from an import lathe. Who knows how big a hammer they used to install it BEFORE it was ground.
My bigger lathe was made in Poland with much more care and I'd never think of removing it.

Greg
 
I think that statement is considerably over simplified...
Is it Really? I mean just going by this very small sampling of comments from the machining world population concerning the topic of removing and correctly replacing a gap bed insert, which include comments made by you, the ONE lesson LEARNED here is that Removing that insert should only be done if NO OTHER OPTIONS are available to you!
 
I have the shopfox equivalent of the G4003G, I have removed the gap about 10 to 12 times. The first few times, I was real anal about getting it back perfect, and alinged with the dial indicator, for straightness. After the 3 or so time, I just clean, and put it back making sure there is no noticeable misalignment were the gap meets the bed ways. After I install it, I make a cut, where the saddle is riding from the gap, up to the headstock, then check the diameter at both ends, it has been prefect every time.
 
Who knows how big a hammer they used to install it BEFORE it was ground.
I have the Birmingham equivalent of the Grizzly mentioned. I have never removed the gap. I HAVE torn the thing down to clean and inspect. After seeing what I saw, I will go with the post quoted above:cautious:
 
I have a Jet 14x40, I’ve had the gap piece out about 50-75 times in the last 8-10 yrs, I’ve never had an issue with it going back in, wipe the area clean, reinstall the piece.
 
I also have a optimum 14x40 with a gap that I have not needed to remove yet. My take on the gap is if your lathe is properly setup/leveled and straight it shouldn’t be a problem.
Pull the gap and your bed is tweaked it’s probably gonna be a bear to get realigned.
I would think if you indicate it before you remove and when installing make sure all your surfaces are clean reindicate it you shouldn’t have much troubles.
 
I read some where that the problem of alignment arises when the gap was originally assembled with a chip or some grit under it and then ground. When you try to install it without the grit it won't line up. I've never taken the gap out of my G4003G and don't plan to. I'm a chicken!
 
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Keith Fenner has a video on re fitting his gap piece.


Stu

Keith also shows removing the gap on his Rutland lathe which is the same basic design as the G4003/g. He briefly shows why people are scared to remove the gap (quality issues).

I don't agree that the gap should never be removed but I can understand the reasoning for it. With that said I have a PM1236, which again is the same basic design lathe. I too am too chicken to remove mine & I'll never remove it unless the day comes where I absolutely really need to. I don't feel like finding out how much bondo is holding the damn thing on anyway. :D


 
Keith also shows removing the gap on his Rutland lathe which is the same basic design as the G4003/g. He briefly shows why people are scared to remove the gap (quality issues).

I don't agree that the gap should never be removed but I can understand the reasoning for it. With that said I have a PM1236, which again is the same basic design lathe. I too am too chicken to remove mine & I'll never remove it unless the day comes where I absolutely really need to. I don't feel like finding out how much bondo is holding the damn thing on anyway. :D



I'm reading this thread as an interested observer, I'm always liking the idea of a gap bed lath or sliding gap lathe, my first lathe was a small older lathe and has a fixed gap area which was quite handy.

I can see the difference between the old iron lathe keith has and the newer one with the rough mating surfaces.

Stu
 
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